How good are my primers?

[scpaul]

I bought a few thousand various primers about 7 years ago. They have been stored in an out building most of that time. In drawers, metal cabinets, zip lock bags, etc. I know that when powder goes bad it usually has a smell, etc. Is there an easy to tell if my primers are OK? I don't really want to shoot a bunch from each batch and each storage location through a chrono. Does anyone know of an easy way to check all of these batchs ?
Thanks, Paul

 

[Chadp82]

For most reloading you want consistency. I would divide them up by what you know to create a "lot" based on brand, and maybe go further to storage condition. Some loads in my experience aren't sensitive to primers as much as powder and bullets, but some load are and a primer change makes a bigger difference. There is a bit of trial and error when swapping from one brand of primers to another. If I swap primer brand, I always start low and work up. In some cases, not all, the node for grouping can be similar or even the same if you swap primer brands. But for safety don't assume they are interchangeable, even though you may find they are pretty darn close after you work the load from bottom to top on powder charge.

You can put a primer in an empty case to verify it will go bang in your rifle if you suspect they are damaged. It's much better than dealing with a squib load.

Primers are pretty resilient so unless you suspect they got wet, I personally wouldn't sweat about it too much.

 

[Rosebud]

Make sure they are the same manufacturer, and same type. They should be fine. I'm shooting a brick of Winchester from1985. No issues whatsoever. Avoid zip lock bags unless you can vacuum all the air out. Mine are kept inside my home in humid Alabama. Not a problem.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Primers are mostly humid proof and consist of lead-styphinate.
Temperature fluctuations are not really a problem, as loaded ammo goes through the same. I would not store primers in plastic bags.
I doubt your primers will be bad…

Cheers.

 

[PApa Black]

For most reloading you want consistency. I would divide them up by what you know to create a "lot" based on brand, and maybe go further to storage condition. Some loads in my experience aren't sensitive to primers as much as powder and bullets, but some load are and a primer change makes a bigger difference. There is a bit of trial and error when swapping from one brand of primers to another. If I swap primer brand, I always start low and work up. In some cases, not all, the node for grouping can be similar or even the same if you swap primer brands. But for safety don't assume they are interchangeable, even though you may find they are pretty darn close after you work the load from bottom to top on powder charge.

You can put a primer in an empty case to verify it will go bang in your rifle if you suspect they are damaged. It's much better than dealing with a squib load.

Primers are pretty resilient so unless you suspect they got wet, I personally wouldn't sweat about it too much.

I find the same thing: powder - primer combination usually are sensitive.

 

[sturner]

I found a box of CCI 250 I bought in 87 and they are still good

 

[memtb]

I bought a few thousand various primers about 7 years ago. They have been stored in an out building most of that time. In drawers, metal cabinets, zip lock bags, etc. I know that when powder goes bad it usually has a smell, etc. Is there an easy to tell if my primers are OK? I don't really want to shoot a bunch from each batch and each storage location through a chrono. Does anyone know of an easy way to check all of these batchs ?
Thanks, Paul

I lived the first 35 years of my life in Louisiana (noted for humidity and heat) and brought a bunch of primers to Wyoming with me in '85. Some of those ultimately ended up in a storage building for several years…..experiencing summer highs in the 90's and winter lows in the -30's.

Fast forward in the 2000's……I used up those primers and can't recall a misfire! Those primers experienced just about every extreme you could expect.

Primers are pretty tough…..impervious to near everything except oil! Many years ago a friend of mine discovered that you don't use liberally WD 40 to protect your handgun. The .357's that I loaded for him would not go "bang"!

And for what it's worth…..I have some Korean War surplus powder in a cardboard fiber type drum that has likely seen many extremes….at last look was just fine! memtb

 

[crkckr]

I've been storing primers in plastic bags and/or in surplus ammo cans for years with no problems. I put a drinking straw in the corner of the bag then close the zip lock up to the straw, then suck as much air out as possible and then pull the straw and close the bag the rest of the way, creating a pretty good vaccum in the bag. I've had primers that I don't use very often stored for many years this way and while some of the bags relax after a year or so, the majority still have a good seal. I also use a 5 gallon bucket with a good rubber seal but I have no way to remove the air from them. They are stored in my relatively dry basement (I have a humidity monitor which usually stays pretty constant at around 60%). I do have a few of most of the major brands and have never had any problems switching between them, although I always load a test batch of 5 to shoot over the chrono to confirm velocity. Since I tend to load most of my "good" SD/HD and hunting ammo right up to max velocities/pressures, the only time I actually reduce a load is when changing powder lots or when changing primer types, e.g. when going from a standard to magnum or vice versa. Since these items can show the greatest variation in pressure, I use more caution when any changes are made in these components. I've been fortunate in that I have only experienced a major change one time when going from one to another but due caution is always prudent! I did have a major change when changing powder lots using RL 7 but there was a very clear *drop* in velocity and pressure going to the next lot of about 100 fps. Ultimately I ended up doing the one thing the powers that be say to never do (hey, it's my powder and my butt on the line so sometimes I experiment here and there when logic says it should be ok!), that is mixing 2 lots of powder. As I had around 1/2 pound of the warmer powder left, I thoughly mixed the old (perhaps 2 years old) with the new and got my loads to within about 65 fps of the old data. I can live with that but again, it's the first time I've ever experienced that much of a change going from one lot to another. They actually do a pretty fair job keeping the lots consistent! I do think that testing, with a chrono, is especially necessary when using max loads, as it doesn't take much to push you into the realm of "too much of a good thing." Even with so few big changes over the last 50 some years of reloading, checking and confirming when making component changes remains the best way to keep yourself and your firearms in good working order!
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[scpaul]

Thanks all, I've been away from loading for awhile due to my health. My primers have been stored in multiple layers of protection including zip locks that the excess air was pressed out then sealed. The building is in good shape and doesn't have any leaks. I'm in S.C. so I have somewhat similar conditions to Louisiana, heat, humidity, storms, etc.
I did notice that an auto press was almost full and had been left that way so I'll probably dispose of those primers out of being overly cautious.
Is there any indicators other than sound, recoil and extreme velosity change that i could watch just out of an over abundance of caution.
thanks everyone, Paul
.

 

[memtb]

Thanks all, I've been away from loading for awhile due to my health. My primers have been stored in multiple layers of protection including zip locks that the excess air was pressed out then sealed. The building is in good shape and doesn't have any leaks. I'm in S.C. so I have somewhat similar conditions to Louisiana, heat, humidity, storms, etc.
I did notice that an auto press was almost full and had been left that way so I'll probably dispose of those primers out of being overly cautious.
Is there any indicators other than sound, recoil and extreme velosity change that i could watch just out of an over abundance of caution.
thanks everyone, Paul
.

That about covers any/most potential primer issues……other than a complete misfire! memtb

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

Thanks all, I've been away from loading for awhile due to my health. My primers have been stored in multiple layers of protection including zip locks that the excess air was pressed out then sealed. The building is in good shape and doesn't have any leaks. I'm in S.C. so I have somewhat similar conditions to Louisiana, heat, humidity, storms, etc.
I did notice that an auto press was almost full and had been left that way so I'll probably dispose of those primers out of being overly cautious.
Is there any indicators other than sound, recoil and extreme velosity change that i could watch just out of an over abundance of caution.
thanks everyone, Paul
.

I would try a few before tossing them

 

[crkckr]

A chronograph is relatively cheap these days, unless you go for a Lab Radar (I would love to have one but just can't get the price worked into my limited budget!). There is a lot of information to be gained (along with the occasional bit of frustration at times... usually they work correctly or don't work at all!)! Invaluable information, in fact, especially when checking for consistency. It has become an essential part of my reloading kit! I highly recommend all reloaders use one!
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[Doom2]

@scpaul,

I'm in the upstate and my primers are stored in an outdoor storage building and have been for more than 10 years with no issues. The lead styphnate primers are basically unaffected by temperature and humidity. Basically have an unlimited shelf life. The older mercury based primers were hygroscopic and did require some storage precautions.

 

[K.E.C.]

Howdy, I have been shooting up primers that I have had since the early to mid 80's.
Winchester and Remington. My experience is shoot them, they will work just fine. Hope this helps.