Help with new magneto speed numbers

[Tac-O]

I just used my magneto speed Sporter for the first time today.
I'm wondering about some numbers I got and if anyone can tell me the most likely culprit of the variation. Is it my bullet powder primer combo, my hold and recoil absorption, my loads, or something else?

Here's a picture of my results. I think that it's more obvious on the second group that it's likely the bullet powder primer combo. I need to try it with Winchester or magnum primers. On the first, I find it odd that the ES and SD are so good without including the worst 3. Or is it just that my sample size is too small at 9 rounds?

My loading procedure is the following:

-Deprime
-0000 steel wool on neck to remove soot
-Lube outside of case with Lee case lube
-Brush inside of case mouth... Brush usually has a the tiniest bit of lube on it
-partial FL size to bump shoulders 0.003
-wipe off lube
-trim, chamfer and deburr with Lyman vld
-weigh every charge w/ rcbs 505 balance
-seat bullet (TIR <0.002)
-light crimp with Lee FCD

 

[P7M13]

No pictures loaded.
What's your cartridge
Brass used
Were they annealed before?
What's your loadings (powder x grains)
Primer used?
What's your bullet
Seating depth, B2O & jump to lands?
Sample size? (ah, I see you wrote 9)
Target grouping?
I didn't see you say you had cleaned the primer pocket or flash hole.
How hard do you have the chrony strapped to the barrel? Did you use their ratcheting tightener (whatever it's called)?
Did you set the gap properly with the black key bar?
Lastly, did you fire fouling shots, or did the first three serve that purpose?

 

[Tac-O]

No pictures loaded.
What's your cartridge
Brass used
Were they annealed before?
What's your loadings (powder x grains)
Primer used?
What's your bullet
Seating depth, B2O & jump to lands?
Sample size? (ah, I see you wrote 9)
Target grouping?
I didn't see you say you had cleaned the primer pocket or flash hole.
How hard do you have the chrony strapped to the barrel? Did you use their ratcheting tightener (whatever it's called)?
Did you set the gap properly with the black key bar?
Lastly, did you fire fouling shots, or did the first three serve that purpose?

Sorry about that, I edited and added picture of my info.

Barrel was previously fouled. Haven't annealed cases. Jump is probably about 0.030 at this point. 400 rounds through the gun and I set the cbto to give 0.015 jump after 25 Rd break in was done. The flash holes were uniformed on the 62.4gr group, but not the 60.4gr group. Both group around 0.75". I had the thicker spacer on the bayonet and the strap and screw tightened all the way. I noticed the bayonet had moved forward about 1/4" over the first 9 shots and so I moved it back into place for the second group. Mine didn't come with a black spacer bar. Eyeballing it with my rod in the bore it looked to have correct spacing.

 

[aushunter1]

Could be lots of things!

Inconsistent neck tension-either from neck wall thickness variations or difference in hardness
Difference in powder charge-505 scale has a variance of +/- 0.010gr!
Primers-are you using match primers or just normal?

You can still have a spread of FPS & still have a sub moa group!

 

[Tac-O]

Could be lots of things!

Inconsistent neck tension-either from neck wall thickness variations or difference in hardness
Difference in powder charge-505 scale has a variance of +/- 0.010gr!
Primers-are you using match primers or just normal?

You can still have a spread of FPS & still have a sub moa group!

Regular LR primers.
Yes it's odd how the second group has such terrible numbers but it groups just fine.

 

[P7M13]

Hold on. Strap and bayonet? Are you shooting a M1903A3 or a Garand?
If 1903A3, was this a known sniper rifle?

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

if you are at .002 jump (what is TIR ?? and you are bumping shoulder .003 .. firing pin drop could jam 1/2 of shots

keep the lube off the brush when cleaning inside of necks ..

measure and figure out if the necks wall thickness ia the same all the way around

pick up an expanding mandrel for every caliber you shoot

try to do 25 round workup .. for example if your starting was 59.0 max was 64.0 and

59.2 , 59.4 , 59.6 , 59.8 , 60.0 , 60.2 ...... all the way up to your max of 63.6 , 63.8 , 64.0

then find the 5 that have the lowest ES ..

as far as the bayo strap .. use the black strip that looks like a watch band between the nylon strap and the top of the barrel

 

[BallisticsGuy]

Hold on. Strap and bayonet? Are you shooting a M1903A3 or a Garand?
If 1903A3, was this a known sniper rifle?

magnetospeed.com check it out.

First thing I'd do is hot up the primer to a magnum primer. Staball is a ball powder. They can be a little hard to light. I get better results with magnum primers with ball powders most of the time.

I'd also ditch the practice of weighing every charge. It's a ball powder, it will throw volumetrically extremely well. Set up a thrower, save the time and the human error.

 

[P7M13]

magnetospeed.com check it out.

First thing I'd do is hot up the primer to a magnum primer. Staball is a ball powder. They can be a little hard to light. I get better results with magnum primers with ball powders most of the time.

I'd also ditch the practice of weighing every charge. It's a ball powder, it will throw volumetrically extremely well. Set up a thrower, save the time and the human error.

D'OH! And I asked him about that. Funny, I never think of my magnetospeed as a "bayonet". RTFM. LOL

 

[Tac-O]

Hold on. Strap and bayonet? Are you shooting a M1903A3 or a Garand?
If 1903A3, was this a known sniper rifle?

Haha I wish! I've always wanted one.

if you are at .002 jump (what is TIR ?? and you are bumping shoulder .003 .. firing pin drop could jam 1/2 of shots

keep the lube off the brush when cleaning inside of necks ..

measure and figure out if the necks wall thickness ia the same all the way around

pick up an expanding mandrel for every caliber you shoot

try to do 25 round workup .. for example if your starting was 59.0 max was 64.0 and

59.2 , 59.4 , 59.6 , 59.8 , 60.0 , 60.2 ...... all the way up to your max of 63.6 , 63.8 , 64.0

then find the 5 that have the lowest ES ..

as far as the bayo strap .. use the black strip that looks like a watch band between the nylon strap and the top of the barrel

TIR is total indicated runout. So runout of the bullet on my loaded rounds is 0.002 or less.

I stated my jump was 0.015 at about 25 rounds... now I'm at 400 rounds so maybe that's at about 0.030 now, not 0.003.

I'll measure the wall thickness of my fired brass tonight. It's winchester and I don't neck turn, so I'm sure it's not super consistent all the way around, but I didn't think it would cause an ES of 60! Maybe it could if the outliers were wayyy off?

Being that I just got this chrono, I was just testing it on a couple of the loads I knew grouped well at 100yds. I'd like to just measure velocity on every shot, but it throws my POI by 6" and opens the groups a couple inches too.

What is the black strip that looks like a watch band? Is this different than the nylon strap? Is it the additional rubber spacer? My MS sporter only came with the bayonet, screen, and two spacers.

magnetospeed.com check it out.

First thing I'd do is hot up the primer to a magnum primer. Staball is a ball powder. They can be a little hard to light. I get better results with magnum primers with ball powders most of the time.

I'd also ditch the practice of weighing every charge. It's a ball powder, it will throw volumetrically extremely well. Set up a thrower, save the time and the human error.

I have a 100 pack of winchester primers I was going to try but don't have any magnum primers yet. Do you think I should skip the winchester primers even though they're the hottest regular LR primers and go straight to the magnums?

I like measuring every charge. It gives my OCD peace of mind and I double check weights and my zero constantly throughout my charging process.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

Winchester is one of the worst neck tolrance variations .. you will be surprised what you will find

personally i might return the bag of 100 winchester brass and put towards a better choice .. what cartrige are you shooting

yes the rubber watchband thing is part of the magneto speed kit ..will really help with it sliding forward ..ya i did v3 and it came with it .. im sure any rubber strip will work though

 

[ButterBean]

Just my 2 Cents worth, The pound of 6.5 StaBall that I ordered from powder valley and paid a $25 hazmat Fee and was really excited about went up really nice when I threw a match to it to start a brush fire after I tried it in several rounds with the same results and I tried everything under the sun

 

[Tac-O]

Winchester is one of the worst neck tolrance variations .. you will be surprised what you will find

personally i might return the bag of 100 winchester brass and put towards a better choice .. what cartrige are you shooting

yes the rubber watchband thing is part of the magneto speed kit ..will really help with it sliding forward ..ya i did v3 and it came with it .. im sure any rubber strip will work though

I'll try using the extra rubber spacer next time. It's a .30-06. I don't have a bag of 100 winchester brass. These are my last winchester cases that I'm using. I just bought a 250 count box of starline brass that I'm going to start using. I did some quality checks on them a few days ago and they're pretty consistent, which lines up with the info I've read about them. Looking through 50 cases, none of the flash holes looked like they had any burrs on the inside to clean up. All neck thicknesses were usually within 0.0007 on four sides and there were a few that had a 0.001 difference on one side. Overall length was all within 0.0007. Base to datum with my comparator was all 0.001. The weight had an ES of almost 2 grains, but 90% of them were within about 1.25 grains. I don't worry much about the weight though, as I've read that there can be a too much variance in the head of the case for weight sorting to really make much difference.

 

[Tac-O]

Just my 2 Cents worth, The pound of 6.5 StaBall that I ordered from powder valley and paid a $25 hazmat Fee and was really excited about went up really nice when I threw a match to it to start a brush fire after I tried it in several rounds with the same results and I tried everything under the sun

haha I've seen some results like yours. What cartridge were you using it in? I have about a pound of it left. After that, I've got an 8lb keg of h4350 to go back to but am hesitant on relying on it since supply dries up at times. After my staball is gone, if I don't somehow find consistent speeds, I'm going to look into one of the less popular old standby powders like imr4350 or maybe accurate 4350 for 180gr bullets. There's also that SW4350 from powder valley... I'd like to try that out.