First bedding job.

[midmo]

I had this done a local gunsmith and I need to know if I need to take it back to him. The glass bedded and put new pillars in this grayboe stock. There are a couple of spots at the rear tang that look like there isn't any material that would touch the action.

 

[midmo]

So if you zoom in on the pillars it looks like there are only two spots that contact the action. Is that normal? Do they normally bed the front of the recoil lug in the hole?

 

[andrewsben]

That doesn't look too great. But if it is for a savage usually you want to free float the rear tang.

 

[andrewsben]

Actually just realized there was a hole for bolt on tang, so not a savage. But besides having areas without contact there is a lot of overhang that should have been cleaned up.

 

[midmo]

It looks like they bedded it pulled out the clay and slapped it back together. This is ona remington 700.

 

[Georgiashooter]

Not a beautiful job for sure. Tighten your front action screw to ~45-50 in/lb. slowly tighten rear screw and see if rear tang moves any. Best done with dial indicator on barrel just in front of action. If you get more than .002", it's not stress free and should be rebedded. Other option is to shoot it and see how it does. Is the smith a reputable guy? I don't like leaving edges rough like that and most guys here would probably agree. Hope it turns out good.

 

[andrewsben]

Yeah I would probably ask for it to be done right if you paid for it.

 

[Georgiashooter]

So if you zoom in on the pillars it looks like there are only two spots that contact the action. Is that normal? Do they normally bed the front of the recoil lug in the hole?

It depends if the pillars are flat or contoured to action. If flat, only front and rear of pillars will make contact. The rest will be solid bedding. If contoured,the entire pillar should make contact. I prefer flat. On the recoil lug, I bed entire lug with tape applied only to bottom of lug.

 

[midmo]

The pillars look contoured. When I set the action in the stock with now action screws the barreled action will pivot on the recoil lug like a teeter totter. I don't like ge edges looking likethat either. The smith have great reviews and supposedly does great work. There was a younger guy 19 ish? In the shop that I dropped ot off with and I don't know if he did the work. I am really not very happy with this. I took it I. The summer so could have it a while and make it right. Yes I paid for this and I have sent an email to the smith and follow up with a call tomorrow.

 

[Kevin Cram]

Your bedding looks like this is something he does not specialize in. Typically stock material will need to be removed from the action area to make room for bedding material. Being that I can see the green w/ black webbing stock finish through the bedding in places and it appears that only the tang, front of action and recoil lug was bedded tells me this is not going to be a stress free, full action bedding job. Whoever did this just slapped in some accra glass and called it good enough. I wouldn't trust them to do it again but rather explain that they did a poor job and try to get your money back to have it re-done correctly. A proper bed job falls alot into the prep of the stock prior to the bedding. Here's a photo of one of my pillar bed jobs.

 

[midmo]

Yeah I expected mine to look like that. I called him today and he didn't seem to see anything wrong with the job he did. He said if I wanted him to he would clean up the overhang.....I might end up taking to another shop after rifle season here.

 

[midmo]

What would you use to remove the bedding already there? How would I get it out of the recoil lug area? I know my pillars need changed. I would like to it myself but I don't have time or the tools. I am going to have trust issues now.

 

[Georgiashooter]

What would you use to remove the bedding already there? How would I get it out of the recoil lug area? I know my pillars need changed. I would like to it myself but I don't have time or the tools. I am going to have trust issues now.

An end mill for recoil lug recess. A very sharp chisel for the other areas. I would put it together and shoot it just to see how it does. The overflow is easy to swipe away with a small file if you don't trust yourself with a dremel.

 

[Kevin Cram]

Removing the old bedding in the mill is the best way but someone with a good hand could theoretically do it with a dremel tool. I'd be happy to help if you'd like it re-bedded after your hunting season.