Finer Points of Reloading

The goal here, is to keep this as simple as possible. This is not F-Class or Benchrest, but you can take things, from those processes, to become a more effective LR Hunting shooter, if the need arises. You need your handloaded ammunition to cycle in your rifle reliably and impact where you aim as much as possible and not spend more than necessary time at the loading bench, to produce custom ammunition for your rifle(s).

The majority of my time at the loading bench, is spent prepping brass, for all my rifles, so after a range session, like today, tomorrow will be spent prepping cases that were, used today, so when I re-load them, that's done!

I anneal, some handloaders haven't quite reached that level in their process. At $1 -$2 per case, take as good of care of your brass as you can.
 
I have been watching some video's put out by Panhandle Precision on YouTube, I personally have been very impressed with the content and presentation that Sam Millard provides for us reloaders. Just my opinion. Good luck on your journey to precision!
Yes, he keeps his processing as basic needs to be, and concentrates where the work done, has the most effect.
 
As far as going down the rabbit hole, I am not trying to be an F class or PRS competition shooter. I want to make good consistent ammo in the 1/2 MOA range for hunting whitetail, muleys, and elk while also being able to go to the range and shoot 1,000+ yards for fun.

For the money side of it I don't mind spending it on good equipment as long as I will realize a benefit from it.

I enjoy the process of reloading and find it relaxing. I love learning the science behind it all as well.

In my mind the smaller I can get my groups, the more margin for error I have in the field if my shot is slightly off for one reason of the other, especially at any distance.

Every rifle likes something else. I have a 7mm Allen Magnum that I cannot neck size for - pressure signs show up if I do, and that is with everything else being the same. I have found that using a FL sizing die and bumping the shoulder back just enough so the bolt has a slight resistance the last 1/4 of bolt throw on closing with a case in the chamber is the way to go. I anneal every loading for that gun, Lapua brass.

For that gun, here's my reloading process:

Before I start I have to note that I have measured the bearing surface of the bullets and have sorted them into .001" groups. I tried weight sorting but that really didn't do a thing for group size. I'm using either 180g or 195g Berger bullets.

I anneal the brass using a cheap annealer. I use TempiLaq so I can get the time needed in the heat down, then just mentally count the seconds that the case is in the heat.

Check length, really haven't needed to trim much if any. I did chamfer the primer pockets and trim/chamfer the case mouth.

Tumble clean or sonic clean if sooty.

Full length size but barely bump the shoulder, using the bolt closing resistance on the last 1/4 of the bolt throw to set the die. I use Imperial dry lube on the necks, Imperial lube on the body. I will put pressure on the sizing die with the brass, then tighten down the locking ring.

Throw in untreated corn cob media to remove lube.

Seat primer with a Lee hand primer seater.

Use RCBS Chargemaster to throw the powder, leave it on there long enough for it to weigh the powder throw a 2nd time. If it varies more than 0.1, I remove or add a kernel or 3 to make the variance 0.0.

Measure the throat erosion with the Hornady comparitor, I keep the bullet jump the same; if the throat erodes, I change seating depth to make the jump the same.

Seat the bullet in 3 pushes, rotating the case 1/3 rotation for every push. That helps keep the bullet straight in the case. I will put pressure on the sizing die then tighten down the lock ring. I'm using Hornady Custom Grade sizing die, Forster micrometer seating die.

That's it. All my brass is the same lot number, so are the primers, bullets and powder.

Like I said, I tried neck sizing only, didn't work. I got better results with a full length die and a shoulder bump.

Before I started annealing I noticed bullet seating pressure was varying and I found that the cases with the higher bullet seating force had a higher fps.

With my technique for that gun, it's a 1/4 moa gun on a good day, a 1/2 moa gun on a bad day.

Now with the .308, neck sizing only showed better groups. With my .257 Weatherby Mag, neck sizing and FL sizing showed the same group size. I haven't seen the need to turn necks yet. I've run the 7mm Allen out to 1400 yds with great accuracy, the .308 and .257 Wby out to 1K.
 
You need a headspace comparator take a fresh fired case measurement, then use the FL sizer die to bump the shoulder back .002 or .003. Take a reading after sizing and make the necessary changes until you reach .002 to .003 bump.
^^^^
You can't measure headspace without a headspace comparator for your particular cartridge. Hornady makes a reasonably priced setup.
(Check MidwayUSA.com)
 
Hi you are correct Jud96 it is term "galvanic compatiblity or incompatibility" dissimilar metals produce a galvanic reaction when they are not compatible. Typically results in corrosion at some level. Many competitive shooters perform the the final bullet seating just prior to competing. Some bench shooters will adjust as the weather conditions change over the course of a day.
 
I would say I'm a fairly novice reloader. Been doing it for a couple years now strictly for hunting loads and recreational target shooting. Last night I was pulling some bullets from some loads I had worked up that got "lost" in a move but recently found and I have since changed brass brands. I noticed that some of the bullets pulled much easier than others so that got me thinking are there more advanced things I should be doing for consistency and brass life? I've never had any issues so to speak with my handloads but always looking to improve.Here is my typical process.

1. Tumble & Clean
2. Full Length Resize
3. Trim Necks
4. Debur Inside/Outside Necks
5. Uniform Flash Hole
6. Clean Primer Pocket
7. Seat Primers
8. Throw, Weigh, & Pour Charge
9. Seat Bullet

I'm using a single stage RCBS press with Hornady Custom Grade Dies for my 6.5CM and 300WM. Using RCBS Competition Grade Dies for my 7mm RM. Lapua brass on the 6.5CM and ADG brass on the 300WM and 7mm RM. Berger VLD and Hornady ELD-X bullets.

I set my dies up following manufacturer recommendations.

As I've been researching and reading online I have a few questions.

1. Neck sizing only, is that better than FL sizing?
2. Bumping the shoulder back .002"? Does the FL die do that or is that an additional step?
3. Neck tension, how do I make that more consistent?
4. Any other recommendations?

Thanks in advance.
1) Wet tumble to clean inside of brass and primer pocket for case capacity consistency and to skip primer pocket cleaning.
2) Anneal .... you will hear different things but I anneal every time. Who's right? I don't know.
3) Full size with .002 bump. Watch youtube Eric Cortina video if needed, Neck thickness varies so I turn my necks 1x to .012 thickness and use a bushing that's .003-.004 small in the full size die then mandrel as a last step for exact consistency. Neck turning isn't totally exact so you will get at least a .0005 varience. There are competitive shooters that don't neck turn and just mandrel. Eric Cortina does so I do. If you don't neck turn, just check tension consistency and you should be fine.
4) debur and trim as needed
5) mandrel
6) dry tumble to remove lube.

For powder I decided to go cheaper for now and I use 2 digital scales. 1 is .05 gr consistent and the other is .002. I've found that they can vary slightly and change through out the loading process. THe 2nd scale checks the first scale and every now and then you have to rezero one or both. Sometimes, even the slightest thing like putting the brass in a case is felt by the scale and will change the charge weights slightly over the process. It's easy to tell when both scales are in unison. Some day I might get the v4 but for now I'll save the $1,000. In long range powder tests I've investigated, slight changes in powder weight will cause something like 5-7 inch variance at beyond 1200 yards plus.... approximate.
 
Everyone tweaks their process to fit what they need. Keep trying different methods until you find what works best for you. I don't reload in volume and enjoy the process so mine is a little more labor intensive than some.

1)Decap fired rounds with a Lee Universal Decapper
2)Clean brass with SS media, warm water and Lemi Shine for 30 minutes. (Don't tumble too long as it really dings up the mouth)
3)Rinse with clean tap water
4)Dry in dehydrator
5)Anneal (I anneal after every firing)
6)Full length resize with neck bushing die and Imperial sizing wax. Neck bushing is 0.004-0.005" smaller than loaded round. (I've been using Redding dies and Titanium bushings)
7)Clean sized brass in corn cob media to remove lube
8)Trim to length, chamfer and debur
9)Inspect inside of brass and primer pockets for any left over media or brass shavings
10)Set neck tension with a mandrel to 0.002" under. (I dip the necks in Redding dry neck lube first and only wipe off the outside of the case after sizing. This leaves the dry lube inside the neck to help with bullet seating and prevent welding.)

-Shoulders are bumped 0.001-0.002"

-Primer pockets and flash holes only get worked during initial brass prep. Quality brass like Lapua and ADG only get a visual inspection as they are usually good. Even the newer Hornady brass has been impressing me with primer pockets.

-I use a 21 Century hand primer so I set my primers 0.003" lower than the base(head). This is just to make sure they are below flush. I have not seen any change by doing this. When I measure a primer pocket in Lapua brass, it is 0.027". When I measure primers, they are 0.027". I don't really want to be crushing primers too much.

Here is a good video explaining how to easily get the correct shoulder bump. I also use the Redding shellholder set. This allows me to use the same die for multiple rifles with the same cartridge.

How to size a case and set head space

I would suggest taking a day, grab a drink and sit in front of your computer to binge watch these YouTube channels. Not all of the videos will be relevant to your needs but there is a lot of good information.

Bolt Action Reloading


Erik Cortina - Pro Shooter

F-Class John
 
Everyone tweaks their process to fit what they need. Keep trying different methods until you find what works best for you. I don't reload in volume and enjoy the process so mine is a little more labor intensive than some.

1)Decap fired rounds with a Lee Universal Decapper
2)Clean brass with SS media, warm water and Lemi Shine for 30 minutes. (Don't tumble too long as it really dings up the mouth)
3)Rinse with clean tap water
4)Dry in dehydrator
5)Anneal (I anneal after every firing)
6)Full length resize with neck bushing die and Imperial sizing wax. Neck bushing is 0.004-0.005" smaller than loaded round. (I've been using Redding dies and Titanium bushings)
7)Clean sized brass in corn cob media to remove lube
8)Trim to length, chamfer and debur
9)Inspect inside of brass and primer pockets for any left over media or brass shavings
10)Set neck tension with a mandrel to 0.002" under. (I dip the necks in Redding dry neck lube first and only wipe off the outside of the case after sizing. This leaves the dry lube inside the neck to help with bullet seating and prevent welding.)

-Shoulders are bumped 0.001-0.002"

-Primer pockets and flash holes only get worked during initial brass prep. Quality brass like Lapua and ADG only get a visual inspection as they are usually good. Even the newer Hornady brass has been impressing me with primer pockets.

-I use a 21 Century hand primer so I set my primers 0.003" lower than the base(head). This is just to make sure they are below flush. I have not seen any change by doing this. When I measure a primer pocket in Lapua brass, it is 0.027". When I measure primers, they are 0.027". I don't really want to be crushing primers too much.

Here is a good video explaining how to easily get the correct shoulder bump. I also use the Redding shellholder set. This allows me to use the same die for multiple rifles with the same cartridge.

How to size a case and set head space

I would suggest taking a day, grab a drink and sit in front of your computer to binge watch these YouTube channels. Not all of the videos will be relevant to your needs but there is a lot of good information.

Bolt Action Reloading


Erik Cortina - Pro Shooter

F-Class John
I literally spent all night last night watching those 3 channels!
 
1. Highly recommend getting Glen Zediker's book, "Hand loading for Competition" - takes a lot of the mystery out.
2. Agree don't neck size
3. Neck tension - set crimp to reduce neck ID by .003 - .004 That's enough.
4. Turn necks to get good concentricity.
5. Agree - anneal every 3x.
6. De-burr primer hole inside case - some are punched, and leave burrs. Can lead to inconsistent powder ignition.
Glenn's book Top-Grade Ammo may be a little better if you are just starting out, or if you've been doing it for a while but want to refine your technique.
 
What annealing setups is everyone using? One consistent recommendation I've gotten is I should definitely start! Looking for sub $500. The annealeez is appealing but didn't know if there was a better option in my price range?
 

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