Filling synthetic stock with fiber glass resin

XSIVSPD

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If you want to fill it and not add a bunch of weight you can also add Styrofoam balls to the resin to reduce the density
 

david g ranes

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Have you used it as on a rifle stock
Yes the same bondo material that is listed in other post but it will add weight just take up some space with a lighter material put the bondo where you need it for the strength and weight you need. David
 

aushunter1

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People usually fill stocks for rigidity
I recently got my first rifle and it has a crappy synthetic stock on. I was wondering can I fill the back of the stock with fiber glass resin or wil there be difficulties, it's a lot cheaper for than using epoxy. I just was to make it more solid as I want te make n diy adjustable comb. I also was wondering do 30 min epoxies work for bedding or will it be structurally weak?
The problem with fiberglass resin is it may not adhere to the synthetic material of the stock, Id be using some sort of epoxy & I would try to drill some holes into the cross webbing if possible for more contact area for the epoxy to stick to.
There are epoxy putties around then are moldable into different shapes.

I had a Rem SPS which the stock did have a bit of movement in it, I bedded the action & sanded out the barrel channel a bit more which worked ok, it was a varmint so certainly didnt want o make it any heavier.
 

264MHC

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I’ll echo the above. Polyester/ vinylester resins aren’t going to stick to plastic and have very little strength without fiberglass. Most epoxy aside from some specialized formulations won’t stick either but if you prepare the stock properly you can create a mechanical bond. I wouldn’t use bondo either. It is very brittle and will almost definitely crack over time.
 

jdyoung

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People usually fill stocks for rigidity

The problem with fiberglass resin is it may not adhere to the synthetic material of the stock, Id be using some sort of epoxy & I would try to drill some holes into the cross webbing if possible for more contact area for the epoxy to stick to.
There are epoxy putties around then are moldable into different shapes.

I had a Rem SPS which the stock did have a bit of movement in it, I bedded the action & sanded out the barrel channel a bit more which worked ok, it was a varmint so certainly didnt want o make it any heavier.
I agree about the adhesion problem aushunter1 points out.

The OP is talking about the butt stock and he wants more rigidity. Wants to add a cheek rest.

Keep in mind that I haven’t tried this. Just mulling it over since reading the OP’s first post question.

So .........What “IF” you were able to adhere fiber glass cloth , (like comes in automotive patch kits), to the inside of the butt stock using a Cyanoacrylate glue. After a layer or two is built up, would you have a fiberglass base that will accept adhesion of epoxy ? or any other glue/adhesive you choose.

If so, then mix the epoxy and loose chopped fiberglass and fill the remaining areas inside of the buttstock. My thinking is the cyanoacrylate glues fiber glass layers to the inside of the stock which provides something for the epoxy to adhere .

First rough up the inside of the butt stock , apply the "super glue" in the furthermost portion and then a strip of fiber glass cloth on top of the super glue. Repeat working your way out to the butt until the inside of the buttstock is covered. It would take great time ,care and development of technique to get the first layer in place.

It would add weight, but if you keep in mind to keep the rifle balanced at the magazine area, it shouldn't be distracting.

Maybe I’ve been sniffin’ too much glue.
 

aushunter1

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I agree about the adhesion problem aushunter1 points out.

The OP is talking about the butt stock and he wants more rigidity. Wants to add a cheek rest.

Keep in mind that I haven’t tried this. Just mulling it over since reading the OP’s first post question.

So .........What “IF” you were able to adhere fiber glass cloth , (like comes in automotive patch kits), to the inside of the butt stock using a Cyanoacrylate glue. After a layer or two is built up, would you have a fiberglass base that will accept adhesion of epoxy ? or any other glue/adhesive you choose.

If so, then mix the epoxy and loose chopped fiberglass and fill the remaining areas inside of the buttstock. My thinking is the cyanoacrylate glues fiber glass layers to the inside of the stock which provides something for the epoxy to adhere .

First rough up the inside of the butt stock , apply the "super glue" in the furthermost portion and then a strip of fiber glass cloth on top of the super glue. Repeat working your way out to the butt until the inside of the buttstock is covered. It would take great time ,care and development of technique to get the first layer in place.

It would add weight, but if you keep in mind to keep the rifle balanced at the magazine area, it shouldn't be distracting.

Maybe I’ve been sniffin’ too much glue.
My bad, I missed the part about it just being the buttstock to be filled!

Still, Im not sure why you need to do this when the easy solution is to just fit an adjustable Kydex cheek riser.

2 drill holes & job done!

Another even easier option is to just put on an adjustable height Velcro type like a Bistoli where you have different height inserts, no drilling no mess 😁


I personally think you'd be better off buying a Boyd's laminated stock and being done with it.
Boyds do great stocks, I have 2 of them.

The At One would be a good value 2nd option.

In saying that I am of the opinion that you are best to glass or pillar bed these stock(or both), especially if its a LR rig.
 
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jdyoung

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My bad, I missed the part about it just being the buttstock to be filled!

Still, Im not sure why you need to do this when the easy solution is to just fit an adjustable Kydex cheek riser.

2 drill holes & job done!

Another even easier option is to just put on an adjustable height Velcro type like a Bistoli where you have different height inserts, no drilling no mess 😁




Boyds do great stocks, I have 2 of them.

The At One would be a good value 2nd option.

In saying that I am of the opinion that you are best to glass or pillar bed these stock(or both), especially if its a LR rig.
Aus:I agree about the replacement.
The PO wrote he wanted to save money when he could, and after seein'/readin' the thread
" Bipod broke my stock!!!" making sure the sure there is strength in the area he is planning to drill and install the pad seems like a good idea.
It's his decision, just throwin' some options his way.
John Browning: "make it strong enough and then double it !"
 

aushunter1

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Aus:I agree about the replacement, the PO wrote he wanted to save money when he could, and after seein'/readin' the thread " Bipod broke my stock!!!" making sure the sure there is strength in the area he is planning to drill and install the pad seems like a good idea.
It's his decision, just throwin' some options his way.
John Browning: "make it strong enough and then double it !"
$42 for a Kydex raiser, he will spend that on epoxy & resin, then he has to buy the raiser.

Its his time & money :)
 

Bruce Treloar

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1 Polyester Resin will heat up during cure and shrink so use a slow epoxy. Fast 5 minute epoxies are very poor, the best are the slow cures taking 24 hours to go firm at 25 degrees C and up to 3 days at 45 C to completely cure. Remember the reinforcement Carbon or S glass, etc is the strength, the resin just holds the reinforce in place.
2 It could be time to find another stock as the inner surface probably won't bond properly to the new resin poured in. As it's only for a cheek piece then give it a go to save $$$$$'s
 

Namibguy

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People usually fill stocks for rigidity

The problem with fiberglass resin is it may not adhere to the synthetic material of the stock, Id be using some sort of epoxy & I would try to drill some holes into the cross webbing if possible for more contact area for the epoxy to stick to.
There are epoxy putties around then are moldable into different shapes.

I had a Rem SPS which the stock did have a bit of movement in it, I bedded the action & sanded out the barrel channel a bit more which worked ok, it was a varmint so certainly didnt want o make it any heavier.
It's not going into the stock forearm it's going into the back of the stock so I don't think it's 100% critical if it sticks to the stock.
 

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