glass bedding

[Dead Beat]

i just got a new mule deer rifle stock for my savage 116 i plan on glass bedding the action. anyone have any pointers or know of a few good article's on the subject i would appericate any info i can get my hand's on
i plan on taking it to north wisconsin this nov. and get me a nice big whitetail

Regard's Jim

 

[winmagman]

Jim
Here is a good read on the subject Bedding 101also try a search on "bedding a Savage" I know I asked the same thing once and got some excellent tips.

Chris

 

[Dead Beat]

thanks Chris

good info i was talking to a guy at work today and found out he had the glass bedding tape/vhs froom brownells i picked it up on the way home so with that info and the bedding 101 i think i have something to go by ill do the bedding job this weekend

thanks again

 

[royinidaho]

I've heard it said on this forum, Kirby I think, and its shown in 'bedding 101', - the tang on the savage floats.

Let us know how she turns out(shoots thatis)....

 

[sniper2]

That stuff called release agent, I'd use plenty of it in all appropriate places!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[winmagman]

Jim, Roy and sniper2 both make good points. here's the thread Roy mentioned Bedding a Savage. And you can get away with to little bedding compound, just grind it out and try again. If you use to little release agent you got one hell of a problem. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Dead Beat]

very very good info by Fiftydriver the tape on the tang to support it was the one thing that was stiil rolling around in my head . the action would rock a little bit the tape on the tang solved that. thanks again ill let yall know how it shoots. right now im getting 1 inch at a 100 yard with 3 differnt factory loads . so if all go's well i hopeing to better that thanks again

Jim

 

[James Jones]

Dead_Beat , glass bedding and a good trigger adjustment are two very good things that a guy can do to his factory rig to make it shoot better. These are typicaly the very first things I do to a factory gun but I also like to have the barrel recrowned. You would be amazed at what a crown that is a tiny bit out of square , or a little bitty burr can do to ruin accuracy. In my oppinion its a very solid $50'ish investment.
Also on your Savage alot of times you can screw the barrel on about 1/8 - 1/4 turn and that will tighten up you headspace a little typicaly not enough to cause to tight of a chamber to cycle but a little bit of resistance on a FL resized case.
When I was playing with the Savage guns a bit as switch barrels I would make head space guages out of brass that I had run through my FL die , this alows you to have a very close fitting chamber to die for reloading and that always helps with accuracy and case life.

But realy give a new crown some thought!!

 

[Dead Beat]

thank's JD i would of never thought about the crown . now would be the best time to have recrowned the barrle is clean no trigger and after the bedding it will take awhile to paint the stock ill call the gunsmith i deal wih and see what time frame were looking at. what style crown would you suggest .

you know al in all this by far the best site ive been to by ten fold a world of info and a bunch of guy.s willing to share there knowledge thanks to yall

Regards Jim N

 

[James Jones]

Dead_Beat , I like having my crowns cut at a true 90 deg and recessed at least .100" this alows for a good bit of protection. The 11 deg target crown is nice but to me it still allows a bit more chance for a forgin object to ding it , but if your gun is just for paper punching or varmints that will be gingerly cared for this won't be a problem

 

[Waltech Jim]

Jim,

There is actually 4 areas on the Savages that can give you grief. The other info given here is good and I will attempt to address only those areas that are a potential problem. I have bedded many Savages and have had some incredible results when 2 to 3 inches of the barrel is bedded along with the action.

First of all you will need some high tech and expensive compound to fill in the areas where you don't want bedding compound. (I stole this package from my grandson)

The areas that are a problem are from front to back are:

1. The area between the barrel nut and the barrel. Bedding will be forced into this area if you bed the area in front of the barrel nut.
2. The recesses or notches around the barrel nut. They grab bedding compound and you tear wood out of the stock when trying to get the action out.
3. The tab recess in the recoil lug.
4. The mag cut out just behind the forward action screw.

The area between the barrel nut and the barrel will be sealed with clear tape. The other areas will be filled with the high tech compound shown above.

The following pics should give you an idea of what needs to be done. The first pic shows the action without anything being filled in.

Make sure you fill in any notches that extend above the level of the stock. Then take some tape, I use packing tape and stretch one layer over the nut so that a little of the tape is stuck on the barrel to close up the area between the nut and barrel. Extend the tape above the level of the stock.

The following pic is the finished item covered with release agent ready for bedding.

Tape up your stock, and you are ready to go.

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

[MagMan]

Nice post Jim, great contribution

I've never done a bedding job on a Savage, after reading that post I would not hesitate.

 

[Dead Beat]

great post jim i have one more question the barrle channel is pretty uneven about a wavy 1/16 0n one side and about 3/32 on the other so i will bed it when i bed the action the guestion is do bed the lug all the way around or do i allow a little room in the the front of the lug with a few layer's of tape ?

Tkanks Jim

 

[royinidaho]

I'd always put a couple of layers of scotch tape on the bottom of the lug.

Tape on the front I would consider optional. If not used on the front of the lug, you will have to maintain the barrel and action pretty much exactly parallel to the stock. That is is must slip straight in and out.

Some times this is a pain with rifles that need to have the trigger enter its final position prior to the forward part of the action reaching its final position.

Also you may get a bit of a fright if it at first doesn't pop loose after setting up.

I haven't noticed any of these problems, or any difference in accruacy etc when using a couple of layers of scotch or shipping tape (I don't like masking tape as it is a little rough and grips a bit too much) the front of the lug.

I don't tape the sides of the recoil lug as it is supposed to help with torque.