Do you use your hand loads to get on paper?

I pull the bolt, like many have said. fire one shot at 25, adjust scope to that hole. Fire one shot to confirm adjustment, and adjust in it is not. Then move to 100 fire one shot, adjust. Then start my 3 shot groups to finalize zero. Don't shoot factory other than rimfire. Never used more than 6 - 10 round to zero.
 
One thing that nobody mentioned yet in this thread is that when bore-sighting, it is important to get the circles seen while looking through the bore concentric with each other. The one nearer to the eye, on the chamber end of the barrel, should appear to be bigger than the circle on the muzzle end. If these two circles are not concentric when you adjust the scope, your shot will not be where you want it on the paper. This may seem like a little thing, but it is not. The error it induces at 25 yards will be greatly magnified at longer ranges, and even at 100 yards you will spend more ammo getting your scope dialed n. Another thing is that after bore-sighting at 25 yards in this manner, I have found that doing it again at my 100 yard target has often required a few more clicks on the scope turret to get it perfect. Any adjustments that can b made prior to firing the rifle will save ammo.

Another point I'd like to make is this : I always keep a box of inexpensive "bore-fouling" ammo in the range bag, since every rifle I have ever owned has not fired the first round from an oily barrel to the same POI as the fourth or fifth round fired - even when I have run a couple of dry patches down the bore prior to shooting. So, I use this ammo for the first couple shots of 25-yard bore-sighting shots, as well as the first shot at longer range. I make the final adjustment at 100 yards with my pet load with the fancy bullets. Then this load will be shooting where I think it's shooting when I'm shooting at an animal on a hunt.

I recently got one of those laser bore-sighters, since my vision isn't what it used to be - especially up close. I found that doing it at very close range makes a tiny spot on the wall, and this has worked better for me than trying to do it with a bigger spot at 25 yards. The spot is also more distinct when done indoors in less than bright light. Any comments from guys who have a lot of experience with these gadgets would be nice.
 
Unless I missed it, the OP is not asking how to boresight.

You are correct, Sir. But he clearly doesn't want to burn up expensive components getting his equipment dialed in, and many of us have taken the thread in that direction, because that is how we conserve those pricey components. I hope this isn't objectionable to you.
 
I start "bore sighting", not with a bore sighter but actually looking through the bore, at 25 yards, and once I am as close as I think I can be, I fire one round, measure and then adjust. Then I move to 100 yards and fire 2 rounds and adjust if/as needed. It is not uncommon for me to be very close or on zero using this technique and with 3 rounds. Then, extend the zero range as desired.

Almost always, I use the same handloads I intend to hunt with.
 
I use a three step process that works for me.
#1, bore sight: windage dead center and 4" high on elevation.
#2 use a similar profiled slug and weight, same powder load, same primer, same cases.
#3 use 2 or 3 of my good hunting hand loads for final sight in. just to make sure. normally I am less than 1 or 2 clicks from where I wanted to be.

I know there are other ways, this is just my way.
 
@megastink , @FEENIX is correct. Use cheaper ammo to get close, then fine tune your scope with your hand loads.

if you don't have cheaper components, PM me your address. I can send you 15 or so cheap 7mm bullets to use for sighting in to get you relatively close...no charge. I used these for barrel break in and fire forming brass on my 280 Sherman.
 
I'm developing loads for my 7 mag, and I just mounted a new optic on it, so she needs to be sighted in. I'm using Nosler LR Accubonds and would prefer not to have to use them to sight in. Do I hunt down some inexpensive 7mm pills and work up a few rounds for getting on paper after bore-sighting? Do you all use hand loads for sighting in'or have another system?
Why wouldn't you? What are you concerned about? Bore sight to get close, pick a clod of dirt on the berm, let one fly on lower magnification, identify your impact, using FFP reticle measure your miss, dial your difference, shoot paper, repeat. Zeroed in 3 rounds. Too easy.
 
After bore sighting, if you shoot one round at 25yds, adjust, shoot one round at 50yds, adjust and then shoot at 10oyds, you'll easily be "on paper" with only 5 rounds expended. Maybe 10 rounds if you spin the turrets in the wrong direction. lol

It's only the guys who start out at 100yds or more that can't figure out where the bullets are going and shoot up boxes of ammo trying to get on paper.
Never had a problem getting of my guns on paper at 100 yards
Do a good bore sight
And get it where I want in usually 4 shots
 
First I run the scope elevation and windage knobs full travel to verify the adjustment range then center both settings. Next I pull the bolt and carefully bore sight the scope at 25 yards. Then I fire one carefully placed shot, measure the required adjustment, and dial in the adjustment. Then I move to 100 yards and fire one more carefully placed shot, measure, and dial in the adjustment. I always use my hand loads and I can usually get zeroed in 5 to 8 rounds. Even if you only have one box of ABLR's you should have enough left to verify your come ups out to 1,000 yards and still have a few left to go hunting. 😎. Have fun with your 7mm.
 
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