Best 308 Zero Distance?

DJSpradley

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2012
Messages
7
Location
Lubbock,Tx
Well after almost 2 years I am finally finishing up on my Savage 308 build and I am starting to think about getting it broke in. My set up is a Savage model 110 h/s precision topped with vortex razor gen1 5-20x50 with a nightforce 20 moa base. I plan on pushing federal gold match 168 gr. and will max it out the range at 1000 but most of my shooting will probably be done under 800. I plan on using it for some local competitions that reach out to the from 100 - 700+ yards and use it for hunting in under 500 yard range.

So my question to the experts is a 100 or 200 yard zero? What are the pro's and con's of each?

Thanks in advance.

DJS
 

Greyfox

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
5,711
Location
Northeast
I have used both 100 and 200 yard zeros for both competition and hunting with no difference in accurate elevation adjustments. I generally like to use a 200 yard zero for my hunting rifles so I can maximize my range in one turret revolution. For competition, I generally use a 100 yard zero, mostly due to habit, convenience, and my drops are memorized.
 

WildRose

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
12,075
Location
N. Texas and S. Africa
Well after almost 2 years I am finally finishing up on my Savage 308 build and I am starting to think about getting it broke in. My set up is a Savage model 110 h/s precision topped with vortex razor gen1 5-20x50 with a nightforce 20 moa base. I plan on pushing federal gold match 168 gr. and will max it out the range at 1000 but most of my shooting will probably be done under 800. I plan on using it for some local competitions that reach out to the from 100 - 700+ yards and use it for hunting in under 500 yard range.

So my question to the experts is a 100 or 200 yard zero? What are the pro's and con's of each?

Thanks in advance.

DJS
As a rule the farther out your actual zero is the more accurate and precise your corrections for elevation will be.

If you zero at 200 once you have a load worked up verify your drops at 400, and 600 or 700yds and correct your inputs to match and you'll really be off to the races.

Hundred yard groups are ok for mounting scopes and initial load work up but not worth much beyond that.
 

AaronEdwardJames

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
75
Location
United kingdom
100metres should be zero for all rifles for hunting or target, no need to account for wind etc so you zero will be zero and not what you think is zero because of factor the environment plays over 100m if you judge your wind wrong zeroing at 200 and you adjust your sight accordingly then when there is no wind your zero will be off to which ever side you adjusted to. Zero at 100 then collect data on targets then at 200m -800 or however far you plan on shooting and then every time you go to range build up a separate data list for cold bore shots and always zero and check zero on a warm barrel then find out cold bore adjustments after
 

AaronEdwardJames

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
75
Location
United kingdom
I wouldn't worry about turret elevation with a .308 your not going to come close to max elevation with a .308 rounds capability , you could zero at 100 and set your sight to 400 as a "battle setting"and hold of below 400 an dial in for further out , this for hunting competition I suppose are different because hunters don't para tics to shoot bulls eyes
 

7magcreedmoor

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
718
Location
Lebanon County PA
Two options hold the most attraction for me. Option 1: 100 yard zero. You never have to dial down or hold under, everything is UP from here. Option 2: MPBR- using ballistic program, determine the maximum point blank range for your load and the animal kill zone for your hunting plan, and zero for the distance that keeps you within the kill zone vertically without correction. Anything longer and you start dialing or holding. I lean toward option one, rather than having different zeroes on different rifles and forgetting which is which in the heat of the moment.
 

BountyHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
Messages
5,460
Location
Wilmington NC
Something you need to relook and that is the bullet. The 168 SMK will not make 1000 stable. It normally goes unstable around 850 to 900. I have sat in the pits and watched them keyhole at 1000 every time. I have never seen them stable at 1k.

The 168 was designed for 300 meter and has very short bearing
surface.

Go to the black hills reloaded 175 SMK
 

gohring3006

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
4,051
Location
Ohio
You might want to consider a different bullet for 1000 yard shooting, just my opinion. That being said, when in doubt, zero at 100 you can't go wrong with 100. That scope should have enough adjustment with the 20moa base to be able to do so.
 

BergerBoy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
282
Location
I'm NOT a patriot... I am a U.S. Constitutionalist
Something you need to relook and that is the bullet. The 168 SMK will not make 1000 stable. It normally goes unstable around 850 to 900. I have sat in the pits and watched them keyhole at 1000 every time. I have never seen them stable at 1k.

The 168 was designed for 300 meter and has very short bearing
surface.

Go to the black hills reloaded 175 SMK

I think the 168 SMK is unstable at that distance is do to the fact that the boat tail is appox 13.7 degrees and the optimum is 7-8 degrees. All of Bergers Hybrids are 7 degrees FYI
 

gohring3006

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
4,051
Location
Ohio
I agree with Bountyhunter, Go with the Black Hills 175 SMK or the superformance 178gr.
 

MOA Chaser

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Messages
105
My 308, '06, and 6.5 Creed are zeroed at 200 yards. Magnums zeroed at 300. Any game within 300 I aim dead on or hold slightly low if really close. My range card starts at 350 and goes to 1,000 in 50 yard increments. Works for me. :)
 

DJSpradley

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2012
Messages
7
Location
Lubbock,Tx
Thanks for the advice. What 7mag said went to heart about staying consistent based on what my other rifles are zeroed at and they are all at 100.

That being said I want to ask a little more about what a few of you said about switching to 175's. One of the big reason that I am going with the 168's is that they are more readily available in my local outdoor stores and considering I do not have the set up to reload (yet) I am having to make part of my bullet decision on convenience.

My question here is with a 100 yard zero with the 168s would the 175s match my zero and then be able to use a 175 range card to reach out to 1000+ yards? Don't know if my question is clear enough. Let me know and I will try to clarify.

Thanks in advance
DJS
 

Primary

LRH Assistant
Here are some related products that LRH members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to LRH’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to LRH discussions about these products.

 
 

Recent Posts

Top