advanced reloading techniques

Kevin and Mikecr you are right there is some less than safe options out there. I am lucky my teacher isn't that way and holds both IBS and NBRSA 600yd. National titles currently.

I was taught to FL resize all my brass. Push the shoulders back just far enough to get a free bolt closure with absolutely no case movement in the chamber. That is how we setup a resizing die. The proper tools help to measure as accurately as possible. 1/2 thous. is the tolerance on case necks. Fireform to create the prefect funnel(shoulder/neck junction) after you clean up your necks using a quality expander mandrel to push the imperfections out, then neck turn.

For the 6Dasher, we run 3000-3040fps with 105's with great success at 600 and 1000yds. In one sitting you shoot six targets(45 for score) plus all sighters. Your barrel gets pretty warm when it's 95 degrees out and you don't have a canopy. <=NBRSA Nationals in Calf.

I guess what I am trying to say is you don't have to be reckless/unsafe to be on top. Only thing I see different with BR's is the reloading tools we use(better in my opinion) and a lot more attention to detail.

One thing I like about it is the best shooter wins hands down. The one who averages the smallest group with the best score wins.

Brent
 
Blipelt,

Mikecr is right. Benchrest shooters are a wealth of information on making supremely accurate ammunition in their supremely accurate rifles. However, many (a lot actually)of their techniques don't translate directly to many other forms of reloading. This is something of a pet peeve of mine, since I see this so often. In many instances, trying to use BR techniques for other disciplines can become downright dangerous. I shoot competitively, mostly Service Rifles. I regularly see guys trying to follow up on using some BenchRest technique for their own ammo, sure that what ever the BR shooters are doing will result in more accurate ammo for their guns as well. More often than not, whatever minor (if even measurable, and I usually isn't) improvements will be more than offset by some serious problems relating to reliability and even safety. BR techniques work wonderfully . . . in BR rifles. They're more often than not out of place in other types of rifles. Feed your hunting rifles hunting ammo. Full length sized, easily chambered, and loaded to levels that don't create hard extraction. Keep them straight, with consistent powder charges and neck tension, and you'll be better served in the hunting fields.

+1 Well said and succinct. Brevity is the soul of wit, as they say...:D
 
You know reading these posts and not being exposed to these things. I am finally starting to realize how far ahead of the Curve Richard truly was in his thinking(2003). Sad part is I only started learning a year or so ago when I have had years of access.

Brent
 
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I've done nothing but use unprepped cases weighed to a 1% spread, full length sizing dies (necks lapped out to round's neck diameter -.002"), fired case neck set back .002" and bullets seated just into the lands to shoot as accurate as benchresters do. That's at worst, about 6 to 7 inches at 1000 yards, 3 or so inches at 600.
 
I second the book - Handloading for Competition (Making the target bigger).

It has a wealth of information on making accurate ammo. That said I'll tell you what I do.

.308 Win
FL size
Uniform Primer Pocket (.001 tolerance)
Debur Flash Hole
Trim the Case to spec. (.001 tolerance)
Chamfer the case (just enough it doesn't scrape bullet jacket & debur outside)
Use powder not sensitive to extreme temp. Changes (tolerance a tenth of a grain)
Seat so my bullet jump is .015 (tolerance .001) *fits in the magazine*

I use CCI LR primers. I'm not convinced benchrest/match primers are necessary. Pick a proven hunting bullet with a high ballistic coefficient. Most things I've read recommend using the heaviest bullet your barrels twist rate will stabilize (which is the philosophy I follow).

The rifle is a bedded Savage action, B&C Medalist stock with a Shilen match grade barrel w/ varmint contour.

Doing all of the above I average .5 MOA.
 
So I realized I only answered half of your post.

Additional tools.
Primer pocket uniforming tool (recommend powered, because manual gets exhausting)
Flash Hole debur tool (manual is ok - you'll only do this one time)
A quality Case trimming tool.
Powder Trickler *I use an auto powder dispenser and verify every tenth drop with a beam scale.*
Bullet Comperator
OAL Length Guage
Dial Calipers (bought for a reasonable price at an auto parts store)
Comp. grade dies ( I own just standard RCBS dies. They work ok, but leave a lot to desire)

I don't own a concentricity gauge, nor do I neck turn. Just haven't needed too is the reason.

I'm sure you've heard "consistency equals accuracy." The same applies to reloading.

If I forgot something someone will let you know.
 
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