Advanced loading techniques ????

[Zerk]

How would you progress in techniques? Right now I am trying multiple powders, starting .5 grain apart. I got some I might try going to .1.

I have lee factory crimp die, I might try that after I get my best group. I hear mixed about it.

Then there is seating depth? Closer to lands? Neck sizing for gun?


Curious how you progress on tuning your loads. I am keeping busy with different bullets and powder I want to try for now. I want to have 2 powders and 2 bullets that work, in case ever a shortage or such. Plus, maybe one bullet will just be better.

 

[Doghunter23]

Are you gunna chrono your loads? I have found seating depth (distance to lands) to have the most impact on accuracy followed by powder charge. I will try a large range of seating depth from .200 jump to .005 jam(CAUTION) in around 20 or 30 tho increments.
If you find a powder charge that has a markedly lower SD on the chrono than you can play with seating depth, then go back to moving powder charge .1 gr if you want. Or go back to moving seating depth in 2 tho increments to fine tune group size.

Then, if compelled, try different primers and neck tension combinations if you are trying to get single digit SD
I resisted buying a chrono for a long time, but finally broke down and bought one and realized how much of the story I was missing on paper alone.

 

[Zerk]

It's on my list, but not sure this year or not. I want a spotting scope, to save all the walking.

 

[bigngreen]

I start by doing a low charge break in with 12 round, then FL size and reload usually five rounds a grain apart on most of the stuff build, bullet sated .006 into the lands and I shoot these looking for the top end pressure, once I know that I pick a mid range load and load up a seating depth test. Three rounds each .010, .020, .030 and .040 of the lands and I shoot these, each set shot fast to stay on one condition, usually the bullets I use I don't have to seat deep and that covers it.
After I have the seating depth nailed I load three rounds every half grain in the upper pressure range, also shot fast per group to avoid condition changes.
This will usually get me quickly to a half moa or better load, if im on a three round load I like I'll load five and shoot them at the 1000 yards to prove it's a good load, if I'm wanting to max out accuracy I'll load another seating depth and check .004 on each side of where I ended up, will also do .2 gr of powder on either side if I want but these will be shot at 300 yards because by then we're usually shooting small.
Very rarely will I shoot over 50 rounds to dial in on a long range load.
I've never crimped precision rounds and I abandoned neck sizing because it doesn't work as consistent as FL sizing.

 

[Rich Coyle]

If you have a Wilson case trimmer you might start by squaring the heads. When I first tried this I thought the first firing would not be as good as it could become because the head spaces were different due to the random length. I was correct. After the first firing they were definitely more accurate than the groups were before the squaring of the heads. I compared five five shot groups to determine if I wanted to continue the practice. I do.

 

[Schnyd112]

After you have shot them and resized a few times, anneal to make sure your brass holds the bullets consistently. Your brass will last longer, sizing and seating will be easier and you gain more consistency from one day to the next.

I agree with the above and think getting good chrono data is a must. The more/better data you can collect, the better you can analyze it if something goes wacky.

 

[Wizard of Oz]

I started reloading only a few years ago, I work up my loads in .3 gr increments, find the smallest group then play with seating depth, usually around 4 to 5 thou less than the oal stated for the bullet in the manual. Contrary to some other here, I found the Lee collett neck resizing die shrunk my groups. I try several powders for each bullet weight, so far I can put 3 shots of a 40gr Nosler BT into one ragged hole at 100 mtrs, ditto with 50grt Vmax. I am shooting a Savage Mod 14 All American classic in .223Rem, using CCI 400 primers, and ADI brass. I like to keep it simple...and cheap.... I came here to learn, the place is full of experts some who are clearly obsessed with the smallest of details, I am happy with what can be achieved with a little patience and basic gear. Thereś plenty of good advice in here from people with far more experience thasn me, so consider it all. Cheers and good luck.

 

[FEENIX]

IMHO, time behind the reloading table and the range will eventually lead you to advance reloading, the same is true with your reloading equipment as you'll eventually upgrade.

Oftentimes, we want to get there quickly. There's no short cuts (esp. on safety) or no substitute to personal experience and understanding ... mean time, enjoy the learning process.

Cheers!

 

[Zerk]

Thanks.

My question was what to do, after I find the best powder charge. Sounds like seating depth is next

 

[bigngreen]

Seating depth is first then tune your powder charge.

 

[Lonewolf74]

Seating depth is first then tune your powder charge.

Not looking to argue but I've always done it the other way around. So I just wanna know what your process is for finding seating depth then powder charge?

 

[barefooter56]

Not looking to argue but I've always done it the other way around. So I just wanna know what your process is for finding seating depth then powder charge?

I don't know about Big n Green but I find the seating depth accuracy node first because it will directly affect the powder capacity of the cartridge case I can use before pressure signs occur. Now this can be an issue as far as being able to use your magazine in some cases depending on the action length. Using the rifle as a single shot its not an issue. Build the rifle around the bullet and you shouldn't have any problems with magazine fit.
http://www.bergerbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/COAL.pdf
WYATT'S OUTDOOR, INC.

Take care,

 

[BountyHunter]

You will find it very hard to get there with any degree of predicability and reliability without a good chrono. Buy that first. It will tell you more than the spotting scope.

IF you have a factory barrel, then get a set of dies that come close to matching the chamber. Easiest way is buy a redding body die, and send 10 cases fired 3x w/o resizing to JLC Precision (Jim Carstenson) and he will convert it to FL bushing die honed to match your chamber for $80-100. You will get great case life and reliable reloads.

IMO stay with FL resizing and matched dies to your chamber. NS will eventually bite you in the *** and always at the wrong time. Shellholders "are supposed " to be the same, yet you will find that they vary. I use one shellholder for one set of dies. Shellholder stays in the die box. They are cheap.

Learn how to properly adjust the dies and it is not the way the mftr says.

Get the tools to measure headspace and size brass, how to find the lands and learn to do that . Here is a set of videos on several very important accuracy items that show you how to do it.

https://www.wheeleraccuracy.com/videos

This is a set of videos every shooter should have bookmarked.

His video on brass sizing show the issues with many dies do not work for proper resizing in many guns.

Keep detailed notes of what you are doing and how.

I will say by good equipment right off the bat, you will have less frustration and save money in the long run.

Plan on learning to anneal as brass necks will work harden by firing and that will effect your neck tension and groups.

Spend the time researching powders, primers and loads BEFORE you start loading. Many times you can shorten the curve dramatically by doing that.

Buy your brass all in one lot for that gun. DO NOT mix lots and forget range brass for accuracy work. Plinking OK, but not serious LR/accuracy loads.

 

[Zerk]

You will find it very hard to get there with any degree of predicability and reliability without a good chrono. Buy that first. It will tell you more than the spotting scope.

s.

Though with arthitis in my foot, the scope was higher on the list.

I just picked up a cheap $25 one. Yes I know it is junk. But my home range is 25 yards. When it breaks, I will be ok with it.

So maybe a chrono this year. Though people were doing this before they were affordable.