Absolute Hammer load data

nwmnbowhunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2017
Messages
200
Would you generally say you have “found pressure” with the first heavy bolt lift and/or ejector swipe?
My experience finding pressure...

ABSOLUTE HAMMERS CAN BUILD PRESSURE FAST. GO SLOW AND PAY ATTENTION.

Each load you work up is only safe in that particular rifle.

New virgin brass can handle more pressure than fired brass. Each time you reload a batch of cases, keep them all on the same firing. You'll find the biggest changes in velocity and such from virgin to once fired brass.

For cases that use 40 grains of powder [308 size cases] i like to go in 0.4 gr increments to find my pressure.

60 grain cases [30-06]- 0.5 increments
75+ [magnums] - 1 grain increments.

Premium brass is harder- Peterson, lapua, adg. They will not show pressure until later and they can handle slightly higher pressure.

Federal and nosler are about the softest and can't handle max pressure.

Using soft brass will give you a little bit more safety margin and some people use it to find pressure and then use their premium brass accordingly.

With remington style actions with ejectors i have found pressure signs to be pretty consistent in this order.

1. Slight ejector mark on some cases.
2. Slight ejector mark on all cases.
3. Bright ejector mark.
4. "Clickers".... these do not always occur.
5. Slight stiff bolt.
6. STIFF BOLT.

My experience is that this transition is usually around 1.5 grains in 308 size cases. 2 grains in 30-06 class, and 3 grains in magnums.

Of note. My model 70s with CRF don't really show ejector marks. So I am more cautious for any hint of clickers or stiff bolt.

I try not to test past bright ejector mark but sometimes it happens ....

I tend to load less than slight ejector marks as i don't intend to burn all my brass up.

WHILE DECAPPING PRIMERS....
pay attention to force required to remove primers. It will tell you if primer pockets are getting loose. And when priming pay attention obviously. If primers are going in real easy that brass is being pushed.

My 2 cents. Anyone else can feel free to add their experience.
 

Hard rock

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
290
Location
Tomball Texas 77377
My experience finding pressure...

ABSOLUTE HAMMERS CAN BUILD PRESSURE FAST. GO SLOW AND PAY ATTENTION.

Each load you work up is only safe in that particular rifle.

New virgin brass can handle more pressure than fired brass. Each time you reload a batch of cases, keep them all on the same firing. You'll find the biggest changes in velocity and such from virgin to once fired brass.

For cases that use 40 grains of powder [308 size cases] i like to go in 0.4 gr increments to find my pressure.

60 grain cases [30-06]- 0.5 increments
75+ [magnums] - 1 grain increments.

Premium brass is harder- Peterson, lapua, adg. They will not show pressure until later and they can handle slightly higher pressure.

Federal and nosler are about the softest and can't handle max pressure.

Using soft brass will give you a little bit more safety margin and some people use it to find pressure and then use their premium brass accordingly.

With remington style actions with ejectors i have found pressure signs to be pretty consistent in this order.

1. Slight ejector mark on some cases.
2. Slight ejector mark on all cases.
3. Bright ejector mark.
4. "Clickers".... these do not always occur.
5. Slight stiff bolt.
6. STIFF BOLT.

My experience is that this transition is usually around 1.5 grains in 308 size cases. 2 grains in 30-06 class, and 3 grains in magnums.

Of note. My model 70s with CRF don't really show ejector marks. So I am more cautious for any hint of clickers or stiff bolt.

I try not to test past bright ejector mark but sometimes it happens ....

I tend to load less than slight ejector marks as i don't intend to burn all my brass up.

WHILE DECAPPING PRIMERS....
pay attention to force required to remove primers. It will tell you if primer pockets are getting loose. And when priming pay attention obviously. If primers are going in real easy that brass is being pushed.

My 2 cents. Anyone else can feel free to add their experience.
Sounds like good common sense advice thanks a good reminder keeps things in check
 

smoothops

Member
Joined
May 9, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Yuma, AZ
My experience finding pressure...

ABSOLUTE HAMMERS CAN BUILD PRESSURE FAST. GO SLOW AND PAY ATTENTION.

Each load you work up is only safe in that particular rifle.

New virgin brass can handle more pressure than fired brass. Each time you reload a batch of cases, keep them all on the same firing. You'll find the biggest changes in velocity and such from virgin to once fired brass.

For cases that use 40 grains of powder [308 size cases] i like to go in 0.4 gr increments to find my pressure.

60 grain cases [30-06]- 0.5 increments
75+ [magnums] - 1 grain increments.

Premium brass is harder- Peterson, lapua, adg. They will not show pressure until later and they can handle slightly higher pressure.

Federal and nosler are about the softest and can't handle max pressure.

Using soft brass will give you a little bit more safety margin and some people use it to find pressure and then use their premium brass accordingly.

With remington style actions with ejectors i have found pressure signs to be pretty consistent in this order.

1. Slight ejector mark on some cases.
2. Slight ejector mark on all cases.
3. Bright ejector mark.
4. "Clickers".... these do not always occur.
5. Slight stiff bolt.
6. STIFF BOLT.

My experience is that this transition is usually around 1.5 grains in 308 size cases. 2 grains in 30-06 class, and 3 grains in magnums.

Of note. My model 70s with CRF don't really show ejector marks. So I am more cautious for any hint of clickers or stiff bolt.

I try not to test past bright ejector mark but sometimes it happens ....

I tend to load less than slight ejector marks as i don't intend to burn all my brass up.

WHILE DECAPPING PRIMERS....
pay attention to force required to remove primers. It will tell you if primer pockets are getting loose. And when priming pay attention obviously. If primers are going in real easy that brass is being pushed.

My 2 cents. Anyone else can feel free to add their experience.
All very helpful. Thank you nwmnbowhunter.
 

smoothops

Member
Joined
May 9, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Yuma, AZ
Regarding the Lee FCD, when guys say “1/4 turn” to quantify crimp, am I to understand they mean turning the die in 1/4 turn more beyond what it takes to get die to shell holder contact when the ram is raised? I did not even begin to achieve a detectable crimp until I was about 1/2 turn past die to shell holder contact.
 

jgs8163

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2011
Messages
1,386
Location
Southern Arizona
Regarding the Lee FCD, when guys say “1/4 turn” to quantify crimp, am I to understand they mean turning the die in 1/4 turn more beyond what it takes to get die to shell holder contact when the ram is raised? I did not even begin to achieve a detectable crimp until I was about 1/2 turn past die to shell holder contact.
No that’s not the guidance. Let me look for BB’s guidance on this as it’s more precise and he’s the expert on this topic.
4570601C-FA9A-4D11-93EC-045A5E19295C.png
 

dougduey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
1,220
Location
San Antonio, TX
I'm gonna try to make a video and put on YouTube if there is any intrest and I can figure out how to do it

We don’t need you becoming a big YouTube star!!

Actually, with all the inquiries into how you go about setting up and tuning the FCD, this is a really good idea. Plus, you can just point someone towards the video link when they ask how to go about using the FCD.
 

cooperjd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2020
Messages
125
Location
colorado
I'm slowly collecting FCD's as they come in stock. I will start playing with them and report back as i get some trigger time. Right now though if i can get out of the house, it's turkey season...
 

ButterBean

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Messages
3,764
Location
West Terre Haute Indiana
We don’t need you becoming a big YouTube star!!

Actually, with all the inquiries into how you go about setting up and tuning the FCD, this is a really good idea. Plus, you can just point someone towards the video link when they ask how to go about using the FCD.
They will probably ban me just for being associated with you ;)
 

7stw

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
2,233
Location
Salisbury Maryland
I'm slowly collecting FCD's as they come in stock. I will start playing with them and report back as i get some trigger time. Right now though if i can get out of the house, it's turkey season...
Don't leave home without them. There are a lot of nay sayers, but the Lab Radar dont lie. I have them in every caliber I shoot.😁🦌🦌🦌
 

CMP70306

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2011
Messages
370
Has anyone tried the consistent crimp from titan reloading? I had been kicking it around for a while and decided to give it a shot since I’m looking at loading the Hammers in three 6.5 PRCs, three .300 Win Mags and a 30-06 plus I want to test it on a 6.5 Creedmoor Match load using StaBall 6.5 and 130 gr Bergers.

Put the order in yesterday so I should hopefully be loading with it next week but others experience would be a good starting point.
 

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