338 RUM build
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HARPERC
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This post came through.
A couple of current threads on the subject going on, search bar top right corner will get you a bunch of info, or as lazylabs indicated ask here.
A couple of current threads on the subject going on, search bar top right corner will get you a bunch of info, or as lazylabs indicated ask here.
Thanks guys i figured it out i am going to have a lot of questions but for starters how do you guys prefer to break in a barrel. I've been taught to clean before first shot and after every single shot until you get 20 rounds down the pipe. Cleaning involves CR-10 brushing and a wet patch then a dry patch. Is there a better method or is this too much thanks.
TXAoudadKlr
Well-Known Member
Cleaning ever shot of the first seems excessive to me. I'm still in the process of breaking in my barrel on my 300. I clean mine to my gunsmith's recommendation, clean every 20-25 shots for the first 100 then clean it every 50 with butch bore shine and bronze brush followed by a couple of dry patches then tetras copper gel and a nylon brush.
HARPERC
Well-Known Member
I haven't owned enough new barrels to have strong feelings about what "works best".
I would say do whatever the manufacturer, and gunsmith recommend. I think that's just part of the contract you've entered into.
It's tough for to me imagine the better quality barrels needing much more than a best quality reamer, and a good cleaning prior to the first round ensuring anything left from the manufacturing is gone.
I haven't seen any documentation that indicates breaking in a barrel will get you 0.5" accuracy, and not doing it makes chasing 1" a challenge. Or anything along those lines.
I would say do whatever the manufacturer, and gunsmith recommend. I think that's just part of the contract you've entered into.
It's tough for to me imagine the better quality barrels needing much more than a best quality reamer, and a good cleaning prior to the first round ensuring anything left from the manufacturing is gone.
I haven't seen any documentation that indicates breaking in a barrel will get you 0.5" accuracy, and not doing it makes chasing 1" a challenge. Or anything along those lines.
I shoot 1, clean for 5. If its cleaning good and no excessive copper I start shooting 3 shot groups/clean. After 5 or so groups if its cleaning easy i will go to 20/30 between cleaning. I never shoot more than that in one session so thats max. It's more about what the specific barrel is acting like than a predetermined schedule. I worry more about waiting between shots. 10 rapid shots out of a RUM case can really zap the life out of a barrel.
BergerBoy
Well-Known Member
When it comes to breaking in barrels and other things there are many different schools of thought. Many times I have found good, long time shooters that practice certain methods that may have been dis-proven but they have been doing it for so many years that they won't stop. Even many builders may not be as smart as you should assume, JMO. Most of the damage comes to the barrel from YOU and ME. Improperly cleaning it or accidents that happen while it is being cleaned. I personally believe that most shooters over clean most of there barrels but JMO. However, when it comes to these larger magnums they can REALLY heat up VERY quickly and will carbon/copper foul much sooner than smaller calibers.
I have shot Shilen, Rock Creek and Bartlein Barrels and I like Rock Creek the best. They are all great but I found better customer service with Rock Creek. If you have any questions on barrel break-in call Russel at Rock Creek and he will help you.
Give them a shot.
Good luck
I have shot Shilen, Rock Creek and Bartlein Barrels and I like Rock Creek the best. They are all great but I found better customer service with Rock Creek. If you have any questions on barrel break-in call Russel at Rock Creek and he will help you.
Give them a shot.
Good luck
Thanks for your opinions guys. Does anyone out there with a 338 rum want to share their secret load data specifically for 300 grain bergers or smk's I would like to load these heavier bullets because of there energy and BC but depending on what the barrel likes. I may end up having to shoot Barnes 225 TTSX (they seem to shoot good through every 338 Imo) gun)
Ok I am going to purchase scope rings and I think I've got it narrowed to 2 choices Leupold mark 4 picatinny mounts or seekins picatinny mounts they are about the same money and same 7075 billet aluminum any opinions? Also should I maybe consider a 30 moa rail instead of a 20 for a little more adjustment because I would hate to have to buy another rail down the road because I can't dial to the range I want to shoot is there any disadvantage of a 30 or 40 moa rail?
Lazy labs, I purchased a vx-3 8.5-25x50mm I would like to be able to shoot targets at 1500 -1800 yards. I am not going to be shooting these all the time I just do not want to "run out of clicks" which happens all the time to my buddies. The scope has 87 internal moa of adjustment
BergerBoy
Well-Known Member
I would get a 30 moa rail. Sounds like a 40 would be too much for you. I like the Seekins rings better. The best rings I have ever seen are at addmount.com and they are for the same price. Check them out
D.Camilleri
Well-Known Member
90 Gr of H-1000 should get you close with bullet seated to magazine length in my model 700 works for me. This is with 300 gr Berger OTM. I removed my 20 moa rail and replaced it with a 0 moa rail. With the 20 moa rail I was almost bottomed out on my scope turret adjustment at 100 yards. To be exact I had only 7 clicks down if I remember right. This affected my scopes internals negatively. I have only shot out to 1250, but I have plenty of elevation to go further.
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