300 PRC hunting build

Last I checked on this forum lr is considered 600-1000 and ELR is 1000+. That may have changed.

In that case it's laughable how different a "competitive" ELR cartridge can be. From a 6 dasher to a 408

That is correct. If you take a look at the ballistics of most rounds and take the wind into account that's why.

Things start getting tricky beyond 600 and really complicated beyond 1,000.

The best shooters with the best equipment can really excel beyond that but this is about hunting not long range target shooting.

I've shot thousands of animals with some success out to about 1,300 yards but I recognize that puts me in a very small group of people.

Even the LR crowd is a tiny fraction of the Hunting world with probably 95% of hunters never taking anything beyond 300-400yds.

That's where the whole MPBR craze started a few years back and where anyone shooting beyond MPBR for their rifle and round was considered to be a bad, bad, man.
 
500 is a long ways in a hunting situation.

If you have time and the right stuff it's easy. But still a long ways.
 
I've considered building a long range (1000 yd) elk rifle and the 300 PRC looks pretty good. I killed a bull at 792 yds with a 300 wsm but need to upgrade the setup.

Looking at the specs it needs a 3.7" magazine. Does a standard Rem 700 LA with factory Mag box work?

(I Will assemble the rifle myself so no machining for extended mags. Will use a Remage nut for the barrel.)

Also recommend barrel length? How short is too short? Will have a brake on it, and most likely a CarbonSix, unless you know a better deal with a Remage nut option?

Any action with a standard length magnum action should be fine.

300PRC is I think definitely here to stay so it's probably a really good choice for you.

That's a really big case with a manly load of powder, I would want a minimum barrel of 24", preferring 26", and 28" would not be a mistake.
 
Any action with a standard length magnum action should be fine.

300PRC is I think definitely here to stay so it's probably a really good choice for you.

That's a really big case with a manly load of powder, I would want a minimum barrel of 24", preferring 26", and 28" would not be a mistake.
I'm no expert on the 300 PRC in fact far from it but I'd say that's excellent advice.
 
I'm no expert on the 300 PRC in fact far from it but I'd say that's excellent advice.
I've talked to several people I know in the industry and with all the support in both factory ammo, components, and rifles being built by the big 3 or 4 they assurred me it's here to stay. The gunsmiths I've talked with about my own desires have said the same thing.

I may see if I can get a little more powder capacity by changing the shoulder angle a bit but that's probably the direction I'll go in for my next and hopefully last 30 cal.

Near RUM velocities with 10-12% less powder ain't all bad.
 
I've talked to several people I know in the industry and with all the support in both factory ammo, components, and rifles being built by the big 3 or 4 they assurred me it's here to stay. The gunsmiths I've talked with about my own desires have said the same thing.

I may see if I can get a little more powder capacity by changing the shoulder angle a bit but that's probably the direction I'll go in for my next and hopefully last 30 cal.

Near RUM velocities with 10-12% less powder ain't all bad.
Kicked around the 30SM (300PRC improved) but will more than likely settle on the standard 300PRC. Need a break from fire forming. It's plenty of cartridge to drive a 212-225 bullet. I've always tried to hit the 3000 fps mark with whatever bullet I run in a cartridge. Most are high bc accurate bullets that work for hunting or ringing plates. I'll have to settle in the 2900 fps area with the PRC with the 225s. My plan is a 26-28" barrel. The 212 would make the cut and may be the bullet my barrel prefers. I'll shoot what it likes.
 
Kicked around the 30SM (300PRC improved) but will more than likely settle on the standard 300PRC. Need a break from fire forming. It's plenty of cartridge to drive a 212-225 bullet. I've always tried to hit the 3000 fps mark with whatever bullet I run in a cartridge. Most are high bc accurate bullets that work for hunting or ringing plates. I'll have to settle in the 2900 fps area with the PRC with the 225s. My plan is a 26-28" barrel. The 212 would make the cut and may be the bullet my barrel prefers. I'll shoot what it likes.

Always a sound plan. There's a lot of bullets out there that will do the job, getting married to any one of them and then trying to pound a round peg into a square hole makes no sense.

As long as Both Nosler and Peregrine are around I have ideal options and there's others like Barnes that will do in a pinch.

Just know your bullet and use it as it's designed or again, you're back to pounding square pegs into round holes.
 
The 300prc has factory freebore of around 230k, which works great with 225-230 gr high BC bullets. The 30nosler saami reamer works well for 215 Bergers with their short bearing surface. My 30N has a freebore of 225. It works pretty dang well! I'm running 215s @ 3075 fps w/ rl26 through adg brass. 26" proof barrel.
How do you find the accuracy with RL26 in the 30N and what sort of groups are you getting? I have been running H1000, but looking for other powders to try (Retumbo and N570 are not available).
 
How do you find the accuracy with RL26 in the 30N and what sort of groups are you getting? I have been running H1000, but looking for other powders to try (Retumbo and N570 are not available).
RL26 runs hot and fast compared to comparable powders but I've had outstanding accuracy with it in all of the loads I've used it in.
 
How do you find the accuracy with RL26 in the 30N and what sort of groups are you getting? I have been running H1000, but looking for other powders to try (Retumbo and N570 are not available).
Half moa wasn't too tough to squeeze out. Sold that rifle a while back, didn't like the titanium action. In a quality action, and 26" barrel, 215s will run at 3100 with H1000. Another node down around 3000. Choose lower psi or high, usually the lower is a bigger node and easier to tune.
 

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