30-06 Need help

buckbrush

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Eastern Montana - Almost North Dakota
Been working with a Winchester 70, SS/Synthetic in 30-06.

It had been skim-bedded, pillars added and the fore end has been reinforced, barrel is floated too.

I really wanted to shoot the Accubonds so I have tried 180's and 165's with RL22 and have been getting 2.5 MOA or worse. Tried working up to max loads and adjusted seating depth from lands to 0.050" away from the lands with the same results. It ticked me off because I brought some crusty factory loads with me to shoot last time and it shot them at about 1.5 MOA. I don't know what kind of load they were. Had an FC stamp and the bullet was a lead tip.

It's an Elk gun that my brother-in-law shoots to about 500 yards. Would Bergers be worth a try? Any other thoughts on a better powder? I have some 200 gr Accubonds, try them?

Thanks for any advice.
 
If you have the 200 gr Accubonds you owe it to yourself to try my favorite load

200AB61RL22.jpg


I originally found his load when I had a lightweight Sauer that would not shoot that well. This was the best load for that rifle. Since then I have tried it in 8 other 30-06's and they all love it.

You must use Fed215 primers though.

You should start lower around 59.5 gr and work up. It will shoot well between 60 and 61 gr RL22 and get between 2650 and 2700 fps which is adequate for Elk. The 200 gr Accubond has a high BC and will begin to catch up to the lighter bullets at the longer ranges.
 
H-4350 for the 165's and 180's should show you better results. I use H-4831 with the 180 accubond with excellent accuracy and good velocity. You can also look at RL-19 if you have it. One of these powders should do what you want to do with a bit of load work.
 
Been working on a 06 loads with a 180gr sgk and ended up with
a nice 5/8 group with H4350 with the best group at 56 3/4gr load
using win brass prep primer pocket, and flashole cut. Full length sizing
to the chamber size then measured the overall set seating die to that.
Then put in WLR primers seemed to be the ticket, because the 210M's
opened up around one inch in testing.
The last step was setting the bullet to the chamber length once seated
turned the case 90 degrees and seated again..
 
Worked on a load of 180gr and RL-15 gave it a try
the results were surprising went over max and very
nice groups.
Now I am not telling you to go over Max in a reloading manual
Just that the results can be dangerous to you and your equipment.......
 
I have a Steyr SBS .30-06 that I got for my wife. it hates H4831 and RL 22 for 180 grains using standard rifle primer. a lot of flash and boom. my guess a lot of the slow burning powder is burning outside the muzzle- 20" barrel. getting about 2450-2600 Fps from it and erratic velocities from my chrno. that can also explain your grous of 2.5" i was getting 2.1" groups. on the other hand i tried the federal vital shock loaded with barnes 180gr TSX and got a .6MOA from it. My best bet is that its a slightly faster powder.

I tried Vhita vouri N135 for 168 gr Nosler J4's and 147gr FMJ's. got one moa with it. at 2900 for 168's and 2970 for the N135. my guestimate N150 would be optimum as there is alot of airpsace in case at 48grain load.

IMR 4350 or RL 15 seems to be the best combination for the .30-06 180's. the H4831 is too slow of a powder for the .06. probably a hot magnum primer may help but down-load by a good two grains or so.
 
patomaster

Is it not a bad thing to have to little powder in a brass, for accurarcy?

Not same preassure in hot and cold weather.
 
Accuracy in general is best when case is nearly filled or at times a bit compressed with a powder charge. the powder tends to be in the same position to the primer flame at all times. I was not able to experiment with other powders since i don't have them in stock. only got mid burning powders for my 147 gr .308 loads hence the N135 and for my .300 win mag.

hot and cold weather seems to effect ball powders more than extruded powders. too much airspace in the case is cause for me to shop around or try to find another powder, but seem to get decent accuracy with N135 for a light head. good enough for plinking at cans and steel poppers up to 200 yards.- cheap bullet, low charge and still got a 8lb keg of N135 around..

does anyone have suggestions regarding powder choices for a .30-06 load 168gr or 180 with a 20" barrel? or should i cook up another load with H4831 powder using Fed Mag primers?
 
I have a dozen different 30-06's that I load for. I switched to RL-22 over the IMR loads that have worked so well over the years. The reason I switched is because I get about 100 fps more out of the RL-22, and I get full case fill with slight compression, and I like that.

My 2 go to bullets for the 30-06 are !65 grain pills in either the Nosler Ballistic Tip or the Sierra hunting bullet.

Usually for me the seating depth is the main area where I can achieve additional accuracy from 30-06's. Pick up a box of the Sierra's and play around a bit with the seating depth. Hopefully that will help.

I really have never seen a 30-06 that would not accurately shoot one of these loads-so it could be your firearm?? Tom.
 
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