woods
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  • Hi Woods, I would like to build a 6.5 Rem mag for all the same reasons you did. It would be a Savage 111 long action with a 26 to 28" sporter or light varmint barrel.

    Problem is I cant find any brass. Do you have any ideas where I could get some?

    Is it possible to make from 7mm rem mag brass?

    Thanks Doug
    I like the 200gr Accubond in my 06 but just could not find a sweet spot. Now I want to try RL 17 after seeing your results. What was your starting load? That 300 yard group is nice. That is about what I'm getting ( 1.5-1.75) with the 190gr Berger. I have taken a couple bulls with the Accubond and liked the results. Not much experience with the Berger except for a small buck and it did a good job but still prefer the Accubond. Will try the Berger on a elk this year.
    Hey lurcher

    Thanks for the compliment. I use a lot of Remington brass and like it for one reason; the neck thickness is usually thick enough so I can turn it to the thickness I want.

    Concentricity gauge? If I didn't already have one (the Bersin) I would try the new Hornady https://www.hornady.com/shop/?ps_session=2896b99f8d27aaea5c08cc9eefcdbc86&page=shop%2Fbrowse&category_id=3c9ed2b433d9b02ac7e10ac73321c437 (second one down)



    The reason is that you can jack around with trying to straighten the load also. I don't have one so I can not verify how effective it will be. Probably about the same price as a real good concentricity gauge like the Neco

    New brass?

    Size neck with the Lee Collet to straighten them up.
    Outside neck turn
    Deburr the flash hole
    Chamfer neck inside and out (but not much)
    Fireform

    I do not:
    Ream the primer pocket
    Trim to length
    Use a steep angle inside chamfer (you will lose case length after several applications)
    Weight sort

    After fire forming I do trim all to same length.

    The most effective thing I have found lately to improve accuracy is to pay very special attention to the inside of the case neck. What you are trying to do is stabilize the seating force when you are seating the bullets. If you will notice, whenever you are seating a bullet and it feels like it is taking more force, then that bullet will have a longer OAL. Different seating depths will cause a different point of impact. If you can make the inside of the necks totally consistant then your seating depths will not vary as much. Also it will stabilize your velocities to a very low standard deviation.

    My method is to use a Lee Collet and then totally clean the inside of the neck with some tight fitting steel wool
    [IMG]

    and dip the necks in mica
    [IMG]

    that way when I am seating the bullets, they go in slick with the same force and when shooting them the bullet grips are all the same.

    You can do the same thing with a bushing style die but you have to outside neck turn to a very consistant neck thickness or all the thickness variances will be on the inside. That is where I don't want any variations.

    Hope this helps.
    Hi Woods

    I have enjoyed your contributions to posts about reloading on various forums across the web, what you contribute seems to make practical sense to me, a guy who is just starting out in reloading. I have a couple questions for you. I am thinking of buying a concentricity qauge. I see that both Hollands and sinclair produce gauges in the $100 range, and then there is a step up to the H&H and the Neco. I was thinking of springing for the sinclair, but would be interested to know what your thoughts were on the best bang for buck on a gauge.

    Also I would be interested in knowing how you attack new brass prep, I am just about to do some 7mm saum brass (remington) for the first time. Remington brass has a bit of a rough reputation....

    My approach is to:
    ream primer pocket/deburr the flash hole,
    check the length (trim all to the minimum measurement seen in a batch of 20-50)
    run KandM madrel through case necks
    Chamfer in side with steep angle K&M tool
    Chamfer outside
    Measure case neck wall width with tube mic, set aside any that are wildly out

    Do you weight sort your cases? and if so before or after you prep them? would be interested to know the steps you take with new brass and the order you do them in.
    cheers
    John
    New Zealand
    hello, I have a question for you, if you don`t mind

    I just got the Forster neck turning tool and hove to ask you: the cutter edge is not parallel to the pilot....
    when I move the cutter and touch the pilot, one side (opposit to the shoulder) is touching the pilot, but the other one (closest to the shoulder) is not.....is it ok? in this case the neck will not be cilindrical but going to be conical.....
    please advise (and if it possible, please take a picture of your cutter touching the pilot)
    thanks a lot
    best regards
    kot
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