215 hybrid load

[USMCPAHunter]

I have a 300rum its a rem700 BDL with a burris C4 scope brake and stock. I cant get a load worked up for this the only thing i can think of id the COAL is not right i have tried 3.7 and 3.8 COAL with H1000 from 87-90gr the best so far was about 1.5in at 100 with 3.8 COAL and 87.5gr. but the 87gr at the same length was like 8in group !? any of you guys work up a load for a factory r700 bdl ? i dont have a gauge to measuer off the lands and what not so COAL is what kind of answers i need please

 

[barnesuser28]

My guess is a scope or bedding problem, do you have another reliable/proven scope you could switch out and try? What do you have for bedding?

 

[Engineering101]

I had the same thought as barnesuser. There is no way a seating depth change will cause or fix an 8" group. Something else is wrong. Barrel not floated, scope broke, etc, etc.

 

[USMCPAHunter]

I had the same thought as barnesuser. There is no way a seating depth change will cause or fix an 8" group. Something else is wrong. Barrel not floated, scope broke, etc, etc.

Scope and base is high qualityfreer floated barrel the 8in group was only one powder charge the others are about 1.5in but I am not satisfied with this

 

[barnesuser28]

I would still throw on another proven scope and see if that makes a difference. Muzzle brakes are known to be very hard on scopes, especially low-mid quality ones. I had a $500 hawke sidewinder on one of my rifles and it was shooting 7" groups with the 215s then i put on a leupold mark 4 and it was shooting around 1", the gun is at my uncles getting bedded right now, hopefully that will bring it in to .5 moa.

So your action is not bedded to the stock?

 

[USMCPAHunter]

I would still throw on another proven scope and see if that makes a difference. Muzzle brakes are known to be very hard on scopes, especially low-mid quality ones. I had a $500 hawke sidewinder on one of my rifles and it was shooting 7" groups with the 215s then i put on a leupold mark 4 and it was shooting around 1", the gun is at my uncles getting bedded right now, hopefully that will bring it in to .5 moa.

So your action is not bedded to the stock?

Unfortunately that is the highest quality scope I own it was a 600 Dollor scope .... With custom elevation turrets after I get a load dialed in of course... My action is not bedded to the stock I bought a after market thumb hole with aluminum bedding blocks.

 

[barnesuser28]

Good looking rifle you got there. The gun i mentioned in my last post also had the aluminum v block. $600-$800 is usually about all i spend on scopes too. So you are in the medium-upper end range of scopes. Do you have a friends you could borrow? If not, then i would get it bedded and if that doesnt work you might have to try some other powders or bullets. Maybe your gun just doesnt like them.

 

[USMCPAHunter]

Good looking rifle you got there. The gun i mentioned in my last post also had the aluminum v block. $600-$800 is usually about all i spend on scopes too. So you are in the medium-upper end range of scopes. Do you have a friends you could borrow? If not, then i would get it bedded and if that doesnt work you might have to try some other powders or bullets. Maybe your gun just doesnt like them.

Looks like ill have to get a bed job it would be unfortunate if I couldn't get these to shoot the 215's are almost meant for the rum... It shot the 180gr factory swift sirocco's at about 3/4 so it has the capability ...

 

[oldno7]

What twist rate is your barrel?

 

[USMCPAHunter]

What twist rate is your barrel?

1-10

 

[AZShooter]

An alternative is to put the scope on a rifle that is a good shooter. I have picatinny rails on most of my rifles. When I have any doubt about a scope it gets put on my super accurate 308 for some tests.

You might want to find out who made the bedding block and get a torque spec from them. Sometimes a specific torque can help.

Here is a checklist for you to go through. I have had many of these issues over the years. I keep this list in my documents and refer to it often. It is really easy to forget a few of them:

Check any blind action screw hole for bedding material or screw bottoming out (false tightness)

leupold windage style base windage screws not tight

Ruger rings not in bases

Front base's screw touching threads of barrel.

Imperfection in crown

action screw holes in stock too small, drill larger so sides of action screw won't touch

Bolt handle touching stock

Mag box must not bind in stock

Recoil lug making contact in bottom of bedded slot causing the action to sit off bedding

Front of trigger group must not touch stock

Trigger guard must not touch trigger

Uneven bedding--- tightening one action screw to see if the action pulls up at other end.

I'd bet some posters can come up with more

 

[USMCPAHunter]

An alternative is to put the scope on a rifle that is a good shooter. I have picatinny rails on most of my rifles. When I have any doubt about a scope it gets put on my super accurate 308 for some tests.

You might want to find out who made the bedding block and get a torque spec from them. Sometimes a specific torque can help.

Here is a checklist for you to go through. I have had many of these issues over the years. I keep this list in my documents and refer to it often. It is really easy to forget a few of them:

Check any blind action screw hole for bedding material or screw bottoming out (false tightness)

leupold windage style base windage screws not tight

Ruger rings not in bases

Front base's screw touching threads of barrel.

Imperfection in crown

action screw holes in stock too small, drill larger so sides of action screw won't touch

Bolt handle touching stock

Mag box must not bind in stock

Recoil lug making contact in bottom of bedded slot causing the action to sit off bedding

Front of trigger group must not touch stock

Trigger guard must not touch trigger

Uneven bedding--- tightening one action screw to see if the action pulls up at other end.

I'd bet some posters can come up with more

I appreciate the check list the scope was on my tikka .270 and that rifle flat out shoots 140gr accubonds it's a completely stock rifle and holds about a half in group at 100 and weighs nothing this is my normal hunting rifle just trying to get this beast to shoot just as we'll but it is def a rifle that is more temperamental I'm thinking of giving up on the 215gr hybrids and going down to 180gr accubonds I should still be able to send these out to 1k accurately since this rifle shot the factory 180 swifts really well maybe it likes 180gr pills....

 

[DOUGLAS12]

There are so many variables to take into account here. Is your reloading equip up to par; getting consistent charges in every case loaded, neck tension, ect. Your RUM should find a node somewhere with those bullets. Take a spent case and neck size. Then take some fine sand paper wrapped around a small dowel rod and go around the inside of the case neck a few times. Goal is to be able to push the 215 bullet in by hand with little resistance, although you don't want it to fall out if you turn the case upside down. Pull the bolt out of your gun; insert bullet just into case mouth. Push case into chamber all the way, using same dowel rod to push on back of case ensuring case is chambered and the bullet will hit lands, pushing excess into case mouth. Now carefully use a cleaning rod from muzzle end to push your mold out. Put it in your crimp die and crimp. Not you have a fire formed case from your gun and bullet that hits your lands.....measure up and now you can play with seating depths