15x power binos

Rich Coyle said:
I was thinking the same about you, "just give it up." In the real world some people use 50mm spotting scopes and they still work. You keep ignoring the fact there is enough available light for optics to work.
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In the real world as light fades there isn't enough light to work with for high magnification.

Eventually it gets dark enough you just have to put them up because even on low mag, there's not enough light left.
 
WildRose said:
In the real world as light fades there isn't enough light to work with for high magnification.

Eventually it gets dark enough you just have to put them up because even on low mag, there's not enough light left.
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This is also false, again looking at the physics of twilight and with quality glass A crescent moon will provide ample light to see all night in a green food plot
 
Austin Dial said:
This is also false, again looking at the physics of twilight and with quality glass A crescent moon will provide ample light to see all night in a green food plot
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No, it isn't false and you sure aren't going to do it at high magnification. At short range with excellent glass you can still make out a silhouette but that's it.

You've been selling wolf cookies since this thread started and nobody that understands anything about optics is buying it.
 
Nodak hunter said:
I have leupold BX-3 Mojave pro guide HD 12x50. I would recommend them to anyone. I hunt North Dakota I also have a little eye issue going on. I carry these the shoulder straps and walk for miles with no problem. No problems with holding them steady. However sometimes it still helps to brace.
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I've looked at those. There's a clean looking pair for sale on Ebay right now at I think about 300.00.

Would you say they are worth the money?
 
WildRose said:
No, it isn't false and you sure aren't going to do it at high magnification. At short range with excellent glass you can still make out a silhouette but that's it.

You've been selling wolf cookies since this thread started and nobody that understands anything about optics is buying it.
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Listen I'm starting to question your credibility for anything youve said in this thread because you basically call everyone a liar who has real life experience as it's fact. I used to be part of a neusence program with a few farmers and in a bean field all night could tell what you were shooting again it's a green bean field makes a difference compared to open country. Again this was with very little twight. Using a scope up to 12x. I feel you live in a Texas optic bubble and can't get out. Quite comical and sad
 
Austin Dial said:
Listen I'm starting to question your credibility for anything youve said in this thread because you basically call everyone a liar who has real life experience as it's fact. I used to be part of a neusence program with a few farmers and in a bean field all night could tell what you were shooting again it's a green bean field makes a difference compared to open country. Again this was with very little twight. Using a scope up to 12x. I feel you live in a Texas optic bubble and can't get out. Quite comical and sad
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Saying you are wrong isn't calling you a liar and you don't have 1/10th the time in the field I do much less shooting at night.

As for my bubble, I've hunted game and people on four continents.

At some point you need to just put your ego in a box, shut up, and learn something from the professionals or at least learn to ask questions instead of making a fool of yourself.
 
WildRose said:
Rich just give it up, all you're doing is embarrassing yourself, the laws of physics are plain and simple with respect to optics.

When you increase the magnification more light is required to resolve the image nothing you can say to the contrary is true in any respect.

As for the increase in light gathering capability it's simple, do the math yourself using the area of a circle formula.

Start with a 40mm obj and work your way up as far as you want to go. This is why all else being equal the larger objective will give you better image quality in lower light comparing magnification of equal value.

As the light decreases the only way to get a clear image is to reduce the magnification. Increasing it will simply give you a bigger, blurrier, darker image.
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They can prove it to themselves very easily if they have a half decent pair of variable binoculars, just go out before dark and look at something on say 7 power then turn it up to 12 or 15 power ! Things will get harder to see clearly, and be darker ! Again you need a pair that has about 10 power difference between it's lowest power and it's highest power ! You are right on WildRose ! Why can't they read the article I put the information on for ? This tells them exactly the same thing as what we have been telling them ! Guess some people would disagree if you gave them a $100 bill, they would say it was a $50 !
 
Buck Buster said:
They can prove it to themselves very easily if they have a half decent pair of variable binoculars, just go out before dark and look at something on say 7 power then turn it up to 12 or 15 power ! Things will get harder to see clearly, and be darker ! Again you need a pair that has about 10 power difference between it's lowest power and it's highest power ! You are right on WildRose ! Why can't they read the article I put the information on for ? This tells them exactly the same thing as what we have been telling them ! Guess some people would disagree if you gave them a $100 bill, they would say it was a $50 !
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They don't want to learn anything, they prefer to believe the laws of physics don't apply to them or their optics.
 
WildRose said:
No, you're not ever going to find better glass in vortex optics than Swarovski, they aren't even in the same league.

The difference here is in the objective diameter. The larger the objective the greater the amount of light being gathered and focused on the inner lens.

Compare optics of equal quality, same brand, in the same low light conditions and the bigger objective will win out at the same magnification every time.
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I didn't pick up on the abbreviation WildRose, my wrong ! Your right ! Thought they were some off brand ! yes those small mm objective lenses don't draw much light !
 
Buck Buster said:
They can prove it to themselves very easily if they have a half decent pair of variable binoculars, just go out before dark and look at something on say 7 power then turn it up to 12 or 15 power ! Things will get harder to see clearly, and be darker ! Again you need a pair that has about 10 power difference between it's lowest power and it's highest power ! You are right on WildRose ! Why can't they read the article I put the information on for ? This tells them exactly the same thing as what we have been telling them ! Guess some people would disagree if you gave them a $100 bill, they would say it was a $50 !
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I agree with what has been communicated and have read the article you posted and understand that lower power in the same optic will be clearer with better resolution but sometimes the 3x at 200 yards at twilight won't tell me if that's a 6pt or 10pt but that 12x will. Now it might not be as crisp looking from the 3x and may be a little darker/fuzzoer but now I know the animal I'm looking at. And this is fact
 
Buck Buster said:
I didn't pick up on the abbreviation WildRose, my wrong ! Your right ! Thought they were some off brand ! yes those small mm objective lenses don't draw much light !
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Being human we all make errors. Fortunately here there's usually someone to pick up on them and correct them for us.

As long as we end up getting good info out in the end that's all that matters.
 
Austin Dial said:
I agree with what has been communicated and have read the article you posted and understand that lower power in the same optic will be clearer with better resolution but sometimes the 3x at 200 yards at twilight won't tell me if that's a 6pt or 10pt but that 12x will. Now it might not be as crisp looking from the 3x and may be a little darker/fuzzoer but now I know the animal I'm looking at. And this is fact
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Yes I understand what you are saying also ! Like looking to see a bullet hole on white paper the higher power may let you see a very fuzzy dark spot on the paper when you have more power ! But by the same token if I wanted to really see what the value of a buck is I would also want the image to be crisp so I could tell in DETAIL it's points ! That is just what I would want, I would not want to be counting fuzzy dark points, that would let me unsure of myself if it wasn't clear !
 
I've tried some of the higher end vortes bino's and liked them but I'm not wasting any more money on bino's that don't have at least a 50mm obj and high quality glass.

The difference in low light is night and day, literally.

I'd rather have a great pair of 8-12x50 or 56 than a box full of smaller objectives.

Those once in a lifetime shots tend to come with minimal light and I've been frustrated too many times right at the edge of dark and had to call one off as a result.

I'm the same with all my scopes now as well except for my low power 1-6x24's.

https://www.trijicon.com/na_en/community/whats_new_item.php?whats_newID=news_160
 
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