Fire Forming With Cream O' Wheat And Muzzle Brake?

I've got both... guess I'm boring........(said in an Eeyore monotone)
The Rum we had i could not get to shoot for anything, left a bad taste in my mouth, and the win mag, not a fan of belts (i know i know, after the first firing you head space off the shoulder like any other belt less cartridge). Just wanted something different.
 
The Rum we had i could not get to shoot for anything, left a bad taste in my mouth, and the win mag, not a fan of belts (i know i know, after the first firing you head space off the shoulder like any other belt less cartridge). Just wanted something different.
build a 7stw if you want something different. If you really want to be wonky go for a 270 stw or 257 stw.
 
build a 7stw if you want something different. If you really want to be wonky go for a 270 stw or 257 stw.

Why even post stuff like this, he wanted something interesting and stupid accurate no other reason needed. We could go find an stw thread and ask why someone would build a rifle on an has been, never will be and easily surpassed cartridge but we don't because if you want to shoot one then more power to ya. We get it you like the stw but that has zero to do with Riley's thread on his rifle!
 
And i wanted more than 1200 rounds of barrel life, and this is going to be a 1k elk and deer thumper and even though the ballistics of a 7stw and 270 stw with heavy weights say its possible, i like more displacement and energy with the 30 cal.

Just got off the phone with Nate, he said to go ahead and try it, he said it shouldnt hurt the brake but if it did he would replace it. He also said that if we are able to remove the brake they would match together almost seamlessly once we put it back together, which was a big concern of mine.
 
Why even post stuff like this, he wanted something interesting and stupid accurate no other reason needed. We could go find an stw thread and ask why someone would build a rifle on an has been, never will be and easily surpassed cartridge but we don't because if you want to shoot one then more power to ya. We get it you like the stw but that has zero to do with Riley's thread on his rifle!

I was simply teasing Riley a bit. No need to get your undies in a bind......
 
And i wanted more than 1200 rounds of barrel life, and this is going to be a 1k elk and deer thumper and even though the ballistics of a 7stw and 270 stw with heavy weights say its possible, i like more displacement and energy with the 30 cal.

Just got off the phone with Nate, he said to go ahead and try it, he said it shouldnt hurt the brake but if it did he would replace it. He also said that if we are able to remove the brake they would match together almost seamlessly once we put it back together, which was a big concern of mine.

Don't get me wrong; I don't hate 30 cal at all. I've killed a few dozen critters with magnum 30's. The bigger 7's have better trajectory and time of flight with sufficient energy delivery for what I hunt. If elk (and bigger) at longer range are on the menu a 30 is probably a better choice.
 
I use the same method, but use cornmeal instead of cream o wheat. Removing the brake before fireforming is an absolute must. Toilet paper, cotton, etc. all have fibers that will get caught in the baffle of your brake and eventually bend or crack the steel. Those fibers carry a lot of force when blowing out the muzzle at 2,800 to 3,200 fps. No idle chatter here...I'm the fool that did it to my Defensive Edge brake. I was able to save the brake by catching it early enough (around 50 rounds) and applying some epoxy to fill the crack and then repaint it. If your smith did his job right, the brake goes right back on and you can't tell if it had ever been removed.
 
I dont think i will be able to remove the brake, thats the problem. I dont have a vice at my house but i think my grandpa may have one. And the brake is round and contoured to match the barrel so that makes it even harder to remove.
 
You can use a gun vise, or a gun rest (like the lead sled) and tie it down securely. Then stick a screwdriver clear through the baffles and gently use that leverage to unscrew the brake. It should pop loose. Done this on three different rifles.
 
You can use a gun vise, or a gun rest (like the lead sled) and tie it down securely. Then stick a screwdriver clear through the baffles and gently use that leverage to unscrew the brake. It should pop loose. Done this on three different rifles.

I will give it a wrap or two of duct tape so i mar anything, thanks for the tips.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top