Recoil management-poor shooting

I don't know if this will be of any help or something you may already be doing, but......

Many years ago, 1990 to be exact, I was trying to work up loads for my new, fairly lightweight (9 pounds all-up) .375 AI. The best I could get was about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" 3 shot groups, and was getting beat-up pretty bad at the bench. I concluded, this was all it would do.

A friend of mine wanted to try shooting it, and he promptly shot a 3/4" group! Angry and with hurt feelings, I wanted to know what he was doing. Through conversation I found that he was shooting it just the opposite from me. He was scared of it, and had a near "death grip" on it. I on the other hand, was trying to have very light contact, much like shooting a low recoil varmint rifle.....as "not" to introduce any torque or pressures on the rifle. So.....I tried his method. My groups immediately shrunk to the same as his.....and, it was much more pleasant to shoot. Basically, I was letting it get a "running start" before fully contacting my shoulder......which wasn't very much fun!

This may not help any.....but then! memtb
 
OK, I scan read everything, so here goes...
I am not recoil shy, but several of my rifles are SNAPPY due to them being light. The worst was my 9lb 505 Gibbs.
I found a substance called 'Sorbathane' rubber, it comes in sheets 1/4"-1/2"-3/4"&1" thicknesses and is 12" wide by however long you want.
I bought the 1" & 3/4" and cut 6"x3" rectangles of both, the 1" isn't really necessary as the 3/4" will absorb the 150lbs/ft of the 505 Gibbs easily. I put them under my shirt between butt pad and shoulder. Couldn't feel the 505 at all with the 3/4" pad, the 1" pad would probably stop a Howitzer from hurting you!
Many call this a sissy pad, but I am manly enough to admit that sighting in my heavy recoiling rifles without it is a chore I would rather not do. I have had 2 surgeries on my right shoulder, rotator cuff repair and removal of the A/C joint. After this, anything that didn't jarr it was a good thing.
I also find switching to a Decelerator pad helps a lot.

Cheers.
 
Ok, We all think everyone should be able to shoot whatever cartridge but the truth of the matter is some folks just cannot tolerate any kind of recoil whatsoever. You can brake the crap out it, best recoil pad you can put on it and they will still flinch no matter what. I have 2 friends my age bracket (older than dirt) that are slight build, not robust guys that just cannot hold up to recoil. Heck they are pulling away from the rifle before they pull the trigger. I've recommended .270's to them but they believe they need 300WSM's to hunt elk. So they cannot hit a pie plate at 200 yards. Its just one of those things that can be really frustrating when trying help someone with recoil sensitivity. They are afraid before they get behind the rifle. I've had them pull trigger of rifle on bags but not behind rifle at 25 yds just to show the recoil. Nope didn't work once they got behind it. The mental side of recoil can be too difficult to overcome. So I started to download to 150 gr Prohunters and it got them to see it was ok. They now shoot pretty good at 200. This can be tough for us to understand.

I am 6'4" 265 lbs and recoil is not even thought of but now recent shoulder surgery may make me reconsider which is why I am building 1:8 .270 Win. I know recoil at 60 grains behind 156HH versus 77 gr behind 196 HH in 300 WM will be big reduction for my shoulder.

M point is there are some folks that just cannot tolerate recoil either from build or more likely from psychological aspect. Challenge is to find a way to help them enjoy shooting.

Yeah, I know 6.5CM solves world hunger too.
 
Well, I will say I was recoil shy a few years ago. I hate to admit it. Was a good shot but much better now. I have overcome most of it.

I have a 300wm that kicks like a mule. 3-5 shot and I am done.

I just take it easy shoot my other and let the 300 rip once and awhile.

I suggest you practice And know your limits,
 
My son and I, practice several times, a year, across small Canyons, sitting position, over Sticks at, 375 to 400 Yards.
That's, "Real world, hunting type" practice of, walk, remove Pack ( use Pack as Toe rest, on Chest ) set up rifle in sticks, range target and shoot,.. in about, ONE, Minute ) at, 10 and 11 inch diameter, Steel Plates ( Deer, Kill zone, size ).
Then, we shoot Prone, OVER Packs with, Toe support Bags, on same size Plates, to 650- 700 yards.
A practice session runs about, 18- 20 shots, TIMES 5 "shoots", per year or about,.. 100 shots, per Elk, Killed ( NOT counting Load "work-up" and "Verifying" Bullets, to scope at, 200, 400, 600 and 700 yards.
My son shoots, a 7mm-08 W/ 168 gr Berger's at, 2,775 FPS. I use, a .270 WSM with, 140's at, 3,185 FPS in 7.5 pound Rifles,..
BOTH Tikka's, are UNDER 7 3/4 pounds ! You WON'T practice like THIS very often, shooting those, .300 WM's WSM's and .338's with Heavy Bullets IF, they are, TRUELY, light weight, "Mountain Rifle's" !
Oh, and by the way,.. you WON'T ever, get rid of, a .338 Magnum FLINCH once you've had it,.. start !
IT still, "creeps up" on me, every once in a while, IF not of, a totally CLEAR Mind and holding the Rifle with, a fairly "hard", hold and ONLY thinking about, Breathing, Cross Hair position and,.. squeezing, the Trigger !
MY advice to ANY Newbie, is AVOID, the "Big Guns", UNLESS,.. "Braked" !
 
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What exactly do you not like about muzzle brakes? Noise? Concussion/muzzle blast, etc. Have you tried any? Which type or brand? Not all Muzzle brakes are created equal. If you have it threaded for 5/8-24" I have a few muzzle brakes I can send you to try if you want. An effective muzzle brake serves two purposes; it reduces felt recoil and reduces muzzle rise. The latter is often overlooked. Muzzle brakes are the most effective in recoil reduction and muzzle rise; better than suppressors. So yes, "I" would thread it for a muzzle device.


+1
This is exactly what brakes were made for. Yes, they increase the blast but that can be tamed with good ear pro at the range and quickly putting foam in your ears in the field.

There are options to reduce recoil but they only work if you try them.
 
Thank you for all the replies. Just to go a little more into the weeds. I am in my mid-40s very athletically built, and again I have no problem shooting my 375. My problem is that I cannot shoot the 300 WSM worth a pinch of coons&*t because somehow I fail to control the recoil in any consistent fashion. Today I wasn't very smart and did all my shooting in a T-shirt and that certainly didn't help... I have a past recoil shield shoulder pad (which I forgot to bring along) which takes the sting out of the gun but the recoil is still not controlled and I'm shooting all over the target. If I transition to my tikka T3X 6.5 creedmoor I can print three-quarter inch groups right after I put this gun down. I know many can do better but I would be very pleased if I could milk out the same performance from the 300 WSM... I understand that shooting lighter weight bullets would decrease the recoil but unfortunately I cannot reload and over-the-counter selection of lighter weight bullets is fairly limited.
I think my problem is my inability to consistently manage recoil and thus shoot the gun accurately. I'm thinking about a muzzle brake or a silencer, leaning towards the silencer because I'm afraid of not being able to put an ear protection and damaging my hearing shooting a braked gun in a hunting situation without ear pro. I'm also not sure if somebody can thread a 5/8 inch diameter muzzle to receive a break or a suppressor. Could anyone weigh in on this possibility?
Again I appreciate everyone's insight so far!
( I may also have to consider taking some lessons how to shoot lightweight heavy recoiling rifles well...)
 
I'm thinking about a muzzle brake or a silencer, leaning towards the silencer because I'm afraid of not being able to put an ear protection and damaging my hearing shooting a braked gun in a hunting situation without ear pro. I'm also not sure if somebody can thread a 5/8 inch diameter muzzle to receive a break or a suppressor. Could anyone weigh in on this possibility?
You might end up with a 1/2-28 depending on your muzzle diameter.
 
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