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Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by Diverguy23, Oct 26, 2017.
Good info. Thanks Greyfox!
here because of the type of hunting I have zeroed at 300 yards and just known I was dealing with a 2 inch rise and fall out to that range. many times here you have very little time to Range, adjust and shoot at an animal before the chance is gone. on a Moose or caribou 2 inches is not a big issue.
I am just getting into rifle shooting/hunting and have my 7 Rem Mag at a 100 yard zero. The elk outfitter I am using this season recommended a 300 yard zero but I'll need to find a public range that can accommodate that here in Central Florida. We have plenty of pistol ranges but finding a place to set up and practice with a hunting rifle is proving difficult. It sounds like a 100 yard zero isn't a terrible option though--really enjoying this forum.
I have a 20 MOA rail on mine rifle. I mounted the scope and set my elevation to zero on my turret. I sight in at 100 yards (POA). In my latest rifle the POI is 4.5" high. I then calculate my theoretical zero distance and place that value into my ballistic calculator. I test at that range to confirm. Adjust if needed. I do this for mainly one reason. To get all the possible elevation out of scope. Every single mil is available if I need it (I do a lot of long range shooting as well). Now there is a bit of a problem, if a critter comes in nice and close. But I have verified my shots at close ranges and use the reticle to "holdover" (or under in this case). It is usually only a few inches and also could be visualized on the reticle (especially with bigger animals).
The problem with a 100 yard zero is the bullet starts dropping below the point of aim immediately after that. At 200 yards, you will hit about 4 inches low, 10 inches low at 300 yards, and 24 inches low at 400 yards (rough guessing here). If you only have a distance of 100 yards to shoot, then sight in so that your bullet strikes the target 2 to 3 inches high at 100 yards. I think that would make your outfitter happy.
I have found just sighting in/load adjustment at 300 yards and using a 300 yard zero works good for me. One of the main reasons I use 300 is it’s great practice for maintaining consistently small groups; provides valuable experience judging the effects of wind. It also seems to more precisely confirm grouping changes after load/seating adjustments. I am usually able to run ladders tests at 300 yards. The drawback is the time it takes to approach the target. My goal is to achieve 1 to 1 1/2 inch groups at 300 yards. Once that 1/3 to 1/2 MOA is achieved I can confidently take the longer shots. When the most accurate load is determined you can alway adjust the zero to what best fits your hunting conditions. A 300 yard zero will generally result in a POI within 4-5 inches of POA out to 350 yards. That is a workable range for most large game and allow for a little more scope adjustment for longer ranges if needed, as mentioned earlier
I have my hunting rig zero'd at 200, I have my long range rig zero'd at 100. I zero'd my hunting rifle at 200 because I wanted that extra range for load development. I decided to just keep it at 200. My long range gun is a 308 and I've found it easier to dial my scope for distances based off of a 100 yard zero
I'm new on here but I've been shooting long range for a couple of years and my setups are not very high at 100 with a 200 yard zero. My 28 nosler is only 3/4 min high with 195 bergers. I just started the 200 yard zero when I started shooting longer distances and always dial or hold with an moa reticle. I agree that 200 yard practice and out beyond definitely improves a guys skills.
morning, here goes nothing. the best shooters in the world
r snipers. these people train everyday, adjust to all the
variables that can b faced in the field everyday to do there
job. these people do not know everyday what weather conditions
they will face. everyday weather plays a major role in the
placement of there shots. they adjust to all field conditions
over and over again. from 100yrs-3000yrds in general
conditons change. I totally commend these people for
a job well done. I try to shoot everyday. I live in TX.
extreme weather changes. have to adjust. just me
find a bullet, brass, primer, powder that shoot well at
all ur shooting distances and go have fun. practice
practice practice. that's where accuracy starts. gbot tum
There really is no need to actually sight in precisely at 300yrds if you know the velocity and the BC of the bullet you are using.
With most 8” MPBR (maximum point blank range) trajectories with a velocity over 3000fps, a sight in @ 100yrds of a 3” high impact is in the ball park for everything other than varmints. Even a 2.5” high zero @ 100yrds will give you a centre hold to 300yrds.
Some prefer a 10” MPBR for large deer or elk/moose, but this can hamper mid range and shortrange shots because you overshoot the target, causing a high miss.
Also, a trajectory that has the bullet rise 5” above the line of sight will cause a huge overshoot when shooting uphill or downhill, you would have to aim so far BELOW the animal to connect with it, that most people don’t compensate enough and shoot high. Even a 15 degree angle will cause an overshoot with a centre hold @ 250yrds.
This where KNOWING your trajectory, sight in height and angle shooting affects are compulsory to study.
All hunters should have a ballistic program/app so they can see, then shoot to see they coincide, before shooting at game.
I use Ballistic AE on my Iphone and it is right on giving me my dopes once it’s calibrated.
I like a 200 yard zero, I’ve found in the course of loading for various calibers, that in many instances your load will “settle in” at ranges past 100 yards and will shoot a tighter moa at 200/300 yards than it will at 100. Sounds kinda strange but I’ve had multiple loads that will shoot 3/4 moa at 100 and 1/2 moa at 200. With a 200 yard zero, I get a better feel for how and where the bullet will fly at longer ranges and have found my dope to be very accurate. Of course, if 100 yard shot presented itself, compensating is no problem in a hunting scenario. Shoot your rifle at both distances and see if you get similar results. Not an expert, just mu .02.