birdiemc
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure these are cleaning rod induced. I've learned my lesson. Never again.
Stainless steel is pretty soft and I think brass is rough on it too.aren't the cleaning rods and tips and bronze brushes a softer metal than rifle barrels? always thought that is the way both were intentionally manufactured......
Jerry. whats your opinion on brass with sharp edges contacting the bore?The bore guide is also for the prevention of ware on the throat and lead area due to misalignment of the cleaning rod. This problem is common when cleaning a barrel from the muzzle end. Some cleaning rods come with a brass cone gust for this when you have to clean from the muzzle. But I seldom see it being used.
Using a bore guide prevents point contact of the cleaning rod with the barrel and only allows the jag or the patch to touch. I consider it a "MUST" for proper cleaning.
A bore snake is the only exception in my opinion because it doesn't have a rod and finds its own center, But in my opinion it also doesn't clean as well so I use them in the field for touch up.
Thanks for posting this because it is very important to care for that expensive and accurate barrel
J E CUSTOM
Jerry. whats your opinion on brass with sharp edges contacting the bore?
Brass or anything else sharp should not touch the bore in my opinion. I use the largest stainless one piece rod (.270 + cleaning anything from .277 and up) on the really big bores It is strong and doesn't flex. for smaller calibers I use rods for 22 cal and up to 264. Of coarse the .177 barrels require a special rod. I de burr the end on all of my rods, even the brass tipped ones to prevent any marking even though they may be softer that the barrel material they can still mark the barrel ot deposit foreign material
The bore is the heart of any accurate barrel and I am anal with the care and maintenance of it.
J E CUSTOM
JE, I'm surprised to hear that you don't use a coated rod like a Dewey?
Won't a stainless rod be able to scratch your barrel?