Why we need bore guides for cleaning...

birdiemc

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Pretty sure these are cleaning rod induced. I've learned my lesson. Never again.
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Bore guides are an inexpensive insurance against damage. Remember though that the crown of the muzzle is just as important, be careful when you're coming out and back in with the rod.
 
The bore guide is also for the prevention of ware on the throat and lead area due to misalignment of the cleaning rod. This problem is common when cleaning a barrel from the muzzle end. Some cleaning rods come with a brass cone just for this when you have to clean from the muzzle. But I seldom see it being used.

Using a bore guide prevents point contact of the cleaning rod with the barrel and only allows the jag or the patch to touch. I consider it a "MUST" for proper cleaning.
A bore snake is the only exception in my opinion because it doesn't have a rod and finds its own center, But in my opinion it also doesn't clean as well so I use them in the field for touch up.

Thanks for posting this because it is very important to care for that expensive and accurate barrel

J E CUSTOM
 
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The bore guide is also for the prevention of ware on the throat and lead area due to misalignment of the cleaning rod. This problem is common when cleaning a barrel from the muzzle end. Some cleaning rods come with a brass cone gust for this when you have to clean from the muzzle. But I seldom see it being used.

Using a bore guide prevents point contact of the cleaning rod with the barrel and only allows the jag or the patch to touch. I consider it a "MUST" for proper cleaning.
A bore snake is the only exception in my opinion because it doesn't have a rod and finds its own center, But in my opinion it also doesn't clean as well so I use them in the field for touch up.

Thanks for posting this because it is very important to care for that expensive and accurate barrel

J E CUSTOM
Jerry. whats your opinion on brass with sharp edges contacting the bore?
 
Jerry. whats your opinion on brass with sharp edges contacting the bore?

Brass or anything else sharp should not touch the bore in my opinion. I use the largest stainless one piece rod (.270 + cleaning anything from .277 and up) on the really big bores It is strong and doesn't flex. for smaller calibers I use rods for 22 cal and up to 264. Of coarse the .177 barrels require a special rod. I de burr the end on all of my rods, even the brass tipped ones to prevent any marking even though they may be softer that the barrel material they can still mark the barrel or deposit foreign material

The bore is the heart of any accurate barrel and I am anal with the care and maintenance of it.

J E CUSTOM
 
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Aren't most cheap piece together cleaning rods alumimun....
And the Tipton I have is brass i believe.....carbon shaft....
Brass nor aluminum shouldn't harm barrel....
 
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Brass or anything else sharp should not touch the bore in my opinion. I use the largest stainless one piece rod (.270 + cleaning anything from .277 and up) on the really big bores It is strong and doesn't flex. for smaller calibers I use rods for 22 cal and up to 264. Of coarse the .177 barrels require a special rod. I de burr the end on all of my rods, even the brass tipped ones to prevent any marking even though they may be softer that the barrel material they can still mark the barrel ot deposit foreign material

The bore is the heart of any accurate barrel and I am anal with the care and maintenance of it.

J E CUSTOM

JE, I'm surprised to hear that you don't use a coated rod like a Dewey?

Won't a stainless rod be able to scratch your barrel?
 
I chose those 2 pictures in particular to post because the curvature of them would be impossible to have been made during the machining process, so it had to he something put into the chamber after it was cut. I suppose it could have been my headspace gauge perhaps, but since I see similar marks on another barrel that I have cleaned I reached the conclusion it was the cleaning rod. I too thought theres no way a 1 piece rod could scratch a chrome moly barrel like that, but it's the only explanation. The 1 rifle I had never jammed a cleaning rod down before my borescope arrived does not have these marks.
Now that I have my bore guide I cleaned that one and still no marks...I dont understand it, it seems to me with a 1 piece rod the only sharp edge is where the tool screws in, but that should never make contact as the tool will hold it off the bore, but i guess I dont have to understand it for it to be true.
 
JE, I'm surprised to hear that you don't use a coated rod like a Dewey?

Won't a stainless rod be able to scratch your barrel?


I almost lost a match due to a coated rod peeling back and getting stuck in the bore. Now I use the stainless rods and keep them clean by wiping them off with each stroke.
With a bore guide I find that the rod doesn't touch the bore most of the time if everything is sized correctly and the rod is big/heavy enough. Some use a 22 cal rod for everything and it will flex and snake all down the bore and this can be a problem.

The aluminum rods and the mutable piece rods don't have enough strength so I don't use them at all except maybe on pistols and then they are very short.

I also don't like any material that will/can embed the carbon and the stainless rods are about the same hardness if not slightly softer, so if you keep them clean I have not found any damage while using them. The coated rods are softer, but they can hold carbon and other fouling if not kept clean like any other rod.

I don't know enough about the carbon graphite rods except they are light and strong. My only concern is that they are much harder than most barrel materials and could wear the barrel if not used correctly with a bore guide.

I am sure that there is no perfect cleaning rod but the best tool I know is common sense.

J E CUSTOM
 
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