Bore cleaning


Well-Known Member
May 29, 2007
Alberta, Canada
I mostly use Wipeout and Break-Free foam cleaners. What is your process and what solvent(s) do you use? I have also used CR-10 with good success. I use Dewey rods and bore guide.
I use a Tipton graphite rod and Mike Lucas bore guides. I do use Wipeout but started to switch over to Patch Out with the Accelerator as well. The Patch Out does the same job with less mess. Occasionally I would get the Wipeout a little to close to the action and made for more cleanup. After sufficient set time, once or twice, depending on fouling, I will use TM Solution or Hoppes #9 for some final cleanup. With these, I typically swab the bore and place them muzzle down on a clean white sock. This also helps get the Patch Out removed from the bore. I hardly ever brush anymore, maybe once or twice a year. I got tired of getting them too clean and taking way too long for them to settle down again. With the selection of good products that are available today, I don't think brushing is as important as it once was.
Wipeout is the way I rock it, I give it one shot and let it have a half hour then patch it and give it another shot and give it an other half hour then I check to see that I got the heavy crud out, I don't strip down to steel. I recently added a couple passes with Kroil also. I really like it cause I can tinker around the reloading room without gassing myself out with smelly stuff that doesn't work nearly as well, and Wipeout is real safe around the family also. Haven't uses a brush since!!!
Tipton rods also, one long one for the bore and a pistol one with a shotgun mop for cleaning the chamber and action.
I use the Tipton brass jags. I bought the kit that covers about every caliber. Use a good quality patch, Sinclair are probably the best. With a good quality patch, you will have to use one size/caliber smaller jag.
I start with a few patches of GM Top Engine, let sit for about 20mins. and follow with a couple of dry ones. I usually do that about 2 times or more untill the is no powder residue left and the patches come out a turquoise color from a little copper. I follow that up with the Wipeout with a patch of the Accellerator first. That takes care of everything for me. I usually clean about every 25-30rds.. I use Tipton rods and Proshot jags.
Put me on the list of Wipe-out users as well. The cleaning rod I use is a Hoppes coated rod. I use a tipton SS jag and on the odd ocassion I use a brush I have the Montana Extreme nylon brushes. Anymore the use of wipeout has purged me from the brush, there is just no need it seems.
I start out running two patches soaked with accelerator and then give it a "two potato" shot of the wipeout foaming bore cleaner. Let it sit for about a half hour, run two dry patches thru it and do it all over again. I set my rifle up so the barrel is pointing down while I let it soak, that way all the crude drains out the muzzle and not into the action. Once in a while I will swab the barrel with a patch of Benchrest Number Nine and let it sit over night. Doing the above I cant get my barrels much cleaner.

Heres a question. Does anyone have trouble finding Wipe-out anywhere else but online? I go to any number of local gun shops, hunting supply, shooting stores and ask for "foaming bore cleaner called wipe out" and I usually get a look like I have a third leg. One guy told me there was no such thing. I guess I get the last laugh as they brush their barrels into smooth bores.
I have looked all over for wipeout locally to no avail.

I was using Sweets followed by Hydrogen Peroxide.

I bought a used rifle and it had had a lot of moly bullets through it.

I came back from the range this past week and wanted to do a thorough cleaning. I had done cleaning at the range every 25-30 shots but consistancy was not as good as it should have been in my opinion.

So I started cleaning and as I was doing so I found that there were layers of copper and moly. Or at least that is what I think I observed. I kept up the regime until I got no more sign of copper on the patches but I noticed that there was still copper in the grooves.

I read on the GunJuice Thread that MontanaRifleman started that he had used Gunslick foam and felt it similar to wipeout and Gunslick is available locally.

I did a couple applications and it is completely copper free. I would use Wipeout but I have not gotten around to ordering it online yet.

But the Gunslick seems to be effective and similarily does not have noxious odor.
I will have to try the Gunslick foam. My concern is with using brass jags. Would the solvent eat them and lead to false blue signs on the patch? I noticed the Tipton Ultra jags and they are nickel coated. Would they be a better choice? I currently use Dewey brass jags.
I really like the Montana X-Treme Patch Grabber, I like long jags so the patch doesn't lock up on the rod and I like the point, it holds the patches real well. You can really scrub without loosing the patch. Brass only!
I think it was in an article on 6mmbr that they mentyioned the nickle jags from Tipton. They are on my short list to aquire.....
Wipeout is a good product but I found Gunslick to be just about the same and it costs less and can be found locally. For products like Wipeout and Gunslick foam cleaner, brass jags are ok because you patch them out with dry patches. but when using wet patches of a strong copper solvent I use the Tipton nickel plated jags. Keep in mind nickel is harder than steel so use them carefully. Also, there is a liquid Gunslick product called Gunslick Copper Kleenz. It is pretty much wothless. I also gave Montana Xtreme 50 BMG a try and it got out most of the copper but just would not get all of it out, even with 20-30 min soakings. When it stopped showing copper residue, I put somem BTE down the bore and let it sit for about 20 min and got a dark blue patch. And 50 BMG is a potent ammonia mixture.

I've read a lot of good stuff about KG12 and KG1 and will be giving them a try because they are suposed to do in 15 min what Wipeout can do in 8 hrs.

My concern is with using brass jags. Would the solvent eat them and lead to false blue signs on the patch? I noticed the Tipton Ultra jags and they are nickel coated. Would they be a better choice? I currently use Dewey brass jags.

The answer to your question about eating the brass jags. Yes, the jags are very much effected with any product that will remove copper. Been there - done that. Look down in the groves of a jag that has been used with copper remover and you may even see some green color.

There are 2 alternatives I know if you want to continue using your brass jags.

1) Buy a gallon of winter windex from Walmart or whomever. When you are through using your jag, swirl the tip in the winter windex and it will neutralize the copper solvent. Takes 2 seconds and I've been using the same gallon for years. In fact I take the winterized windex to the range when I break in a barrel as I use the one shot and clean system.

2) Go to any discount store and buy yourself a small rattle can of clear acylic coating. Clean your used jags well, preferable with rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush. Spray your jags with the acylic sealer and let dry. This is not a forever solution as the coating does wear off with time and every year I give my jags a fresh coat.
PS: I coat my jags and still dip/swirl them in winter style windex to neutralize any copper solvent.

I have a complete set of the Tipton nickel plated jags but much prefer a good quality brass jag. IMO, the Tipton nickel jags are too short and just not the quality of most brass jags, plus I think Tipton needs a better quality point on the end of their nickel plated jags.
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