Which 7mag? 7lrm, 7dakota, 7 rem mag

There are soooooo many ways to go 7mm.

Magnum or not
Belted of not
Long action or not
Wildcat or not

By now everyone knows I'll say 284/26-Nosler but that's for me.

Since I'm loosing my annoyance with belted magnums, in that realm it would be the 7RM.

In non-belted 7WSM or yup the Nosler wildcat. 7RUM IMO is just too much for too little.

But what do I know, my current 7mm are both 284 win and the wildcat is a pile of parts that would become a 7RM in about 20 minutes.
 
If I'm not mistaken, the LRM, 284-26 Nosler, and the 7 Dakota should all be virtually the same thing. Right?------SS
Well.....

Performance, sure they are close.

Brass, no very different. The LRM and Dakota use custom/proprietary brass. The Nosler variants can be formed from 26-Nosler, any RUM or 404 Jefferies brass.
 
Point of information: The Dakota requires opening up the bolt face something the other magnums don't require.

Another consideration will the cartridge fit past the feed rails into a magazine and feed with the intended firearm? As an example the RUMs and Nosler brass won't fit past a standard model 700's feed rails. You would either have to alter the rifle or purchase a RUM model 700.

Then there is brass quality:

I have read that the Dakota brass is not always the best. A guy on 24 hr campfire had neck splitting with second firing. LRM brass neck wall thicknesses have varied quite a bit in recent times so much so that Gunwerks changed their reamer for more neck clearance. It appears that Hornady the sole supplier of the LRM brass is not holding consistent tolerances.

I vote for the 7 Rem mag simply because there is more than one brand of brass available and it will fit and feed in any modern magnum action.

I also suggest you consider buying your own reamer with specifications to suit your particular rifle. You can supply a dummy round to the reamer maker. I have had several very fruitful conversations with Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Gauge regarding throat angle and neck diameter specs. IMO a custom rifle starts with a custom reamer.
 
I'm with AZShooter and vote for the 7RM it shoves the 180s fast enough to be useful and brass and load data is plentyful they seem to always come out with a better 7mm but we always seem to go back to the granddaddy of them all, because it works and works well.
 
7mm-26nosler would be a cool round.

If only the brass wasn't $66 per 25 pieces. YIKES
Consistent with other Nosler brass.

For the larger caliber wildcats, I will probably form most from RUM brass but based on the cases I cut so we could look at them, R-P RUM brass is thicker so loading caution is advisable.
 
Another consideration will the cartridge fit past the feed rails into a magazine and feed with the intended firearm? As an example the RUMs and Nosler brass won't fit past a standard model 700's feed rails. You would either have to alter the rifle or purchase a RUM model 700.

A RUM cartridge will feed thru a standard magnum action if you use a Wyatt center feed magazine.
 
Edd,


I just tried to fit a 300 RUM case past the feed rails of my 300 win mag model 700 and the rear of the case would not pass the rails as I suggested earlier.

I just got off the phone with someone at Wyatt's. They said the center feed magazine would still have to have the feed rails widened if a RUM case won't get past them. It can't be a huge deal as only the rear most portion of the case wouldn't fit. A couple of passes with a mill should do it.

Was just pointing out to the OP that the decision on which 7 magnum to choose could require a bit more work to make it happen unless the receiver was designed for a RUM case in the first place.

While we are at it...what if someone wanted to put a 7 rem mag cartridge into a RUM receiver? Would it have issues keeping the cartridges in place in the magazine or would they have the potential to pop out? I can't answer this one.........
 
Edd,


I just tried to fit a 300 RUM case past the feed rails of my 300 win mag model 700 and the rear of the case would not pass the rails as I suggested earlier.

I just got off the phone with someone at Wyatt's. They said the center feed magazine would still have to have the feed rails widened if a RUM case won't get past them. It can't be a huge deal as only the rear most portion of the case wouldn't fit. A couple of passes with a mill should do it.

Was just pointing out to the OP that the decision on which 7 magnum to choose could require a bit more work to make it happen unless the receiver was designed for a RUM case in the first place.

While we are at it...what if someone wanted to put a 7 rem mag cartridge into a RUM receiver? Would it have issues keeping the cartridges in place in the magazine or would they have the potential to pop out? I can't answer this one.........
It will work fine. My buddy that built his 7mm STW (that I bought from him) did so out of a factory Rem 700 CDL 7mmRUM rifle. Works just fine.
 
I'm with AZShooter and vote for the 7RM it shoves the 180s fast enough to be useful and brass and load data is plentyful they seem to always come out with a better 7mm but we always seem to go back to the granddaddy of them all, because it works and works well.

Exactly! It's been around since '62, and still remains a viable and venerable caliber to this day.
 
Edd,


I just tried to fit a 300 RUM case past the feed rails of my 300 win mag model 700 and the rear of the case would not pass the rails as I suggested earlier.

I just got off the phone with someone at Wyatt's. They said the center feed magazine would still have to have the feed rails widened if a RUM case won't get past them. It can't be a huge deal as only the rear most portion of the case wouldn't fit. A couple of passes with a mill should do it.
I'd suggest a mill file instead of milling. It'd take longer to set-up the mill than it would to pick-up a 8 or 10" mill bastard and have it 'fixed'. Little bit at a time, checking as you go. Not everyting should involve a machine tool. True 'gunsmithing' still requires hand work regardless of the fact that most common knowledge today says that a 'build' is no more than a kit and a "drop-in" fit is considered 'good'.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 10 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top