Threaded Muzzle break

raysugar4567

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Nov 9, 2010
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I have a .300 Ultra Mag and I'm looking to get a muzzle break. It has to be a threaded muzzle break. What would be the most common thread size to use so I can have a variety of breaks to choose from. I have a standard barrel now and when I upgrade to a bull barrel I want to use the same break. Can I thread the bull barrel the same as I thread my standard barrel?gun)
 
As barrel diameters change so can the diameter a muzzlebrake. From my experience each muzzlebrake has unique features as well as threads that may not make them as generic as what you are asking. This one could be tough because what will look good on a standard barrel may not look good on a heavier barrel and visa versa. I think you would be ahead to do separate brakes the two different barrels.
 
If an after market stock is purchased will I still be able to use it when I switch to a bull barrel? I really want a heavy barrel but I'm not going to waste the one I have now, especially considering that I'm only going to get 1500 shots out of it. Once I have the seal tight removed from my barrel, can I simply switch between the two barrel"s without taking it back to the gunsmith. I would like to be able to change barrel's easily. Is the seal tight really neccessary? And is it hard to remove the barrel If seal tight is not used? Optimally I would like to have one stock to use with both barrel's and be able to switch barrel's easily. Has anyone built a rifle to do this or know if it's that easy?
 
I have built quite a lot of switch barrel guns. You will want to pin the recoil lug and get a action wrench and a barrel vice to perform the barrel switch. It takes less than 5 Min to switch barrels.
What action are you working with?
 
The action I have is a remington 700 chambered in .300 ultra mag. Will I have to take it to a gunsmith to have the factory barrel removed? I don't want to do it myself and crack the action.
 
Switching barrels is a pretty simple task with the right tools. As ewallace stated having the recoil lug pinned helps a ton for re-alignment. You'll need a good barrel vice and the proper action wrench (s). Removing a factory Remington barrel can be a bit of trouble. Remington uses a thread locker and the action is snugged up pretty **** tight too. It might be best to have the factory barrel removed by a professional smith first. I have a 20 ton press that I hold the barrel in between 2 oak blocks sandwiched between 2 steel plates. I use a clamp on style wrench to remove factory barrels plus I need to heat the action up with a propane torch first to melt to glue. Lock up the action wrench and then hopefully with a good hard blow on the action wrench handle with a 3 pound hammer break the action free. Once it's removed clean all the crap out of the threads and it will go back on fine with just a rear entry action wrench.

As for the muzzle brake question it's probably best to just install 1 brake per barrel and not try the switcheroo with brakes. There are just as many different thread sizes as there are brakes.

As for the stocks, you'd need to have the barrel channel cut so that it accepts the larger of the 2 barrel contours. Just remember you'll have a lot of clearance around the smaller barrel, it it will look funny but would work.

Switch barrel guns are a pretty economical way to make 1 gun into 2 with little expense. Most guys have switch barrels in 2 different calibers though. I had a switch barrel that was .243 Ackley for woodchcucks through out the spring and summer and then switch it to a 30-338 Win Mag in the fall. The were both the same barrel contour though. The only other thing I switched out is a different bolt with a magnum bolt face. They were both single shots on a Remington long action. I was able to keep the same stock and scope, just re-zero when I switched over.
 
Does this apply to the Savage barrel nut as well? I have 2 Savage rifles, one 223 and a 7mm wsm. If I can switch barrels, then only one scope would be needed.
 
Savage does not use a thread locker on their threads. Savages are pretty user friendly. I barrel vise, nut wrench, headspace gauges and knowledge of how to set the headspace is all you'd need. I'd still use anti-seize on the threads though.
 
Well that's good news, I guess I will get the stock to fit the oversize barrel then it will work for both. I would like to have a switch barrel because I'm considering shooting .338 edge out of the gun as well. Thanks for all the good info.
 
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