Test your bedding

J E Custom

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There have been many post on bedding, and the different kinds that you should use.

I always recommend something that Is designed for this use and the reasons are many but many have there favorite compound and don't intend to change. So I thought I would pass this little trick
on that may help with your choice.

There has also been lots of decisions about how soon you can take your action out of the bedding and when you can torque the action and shoot it.

With all of the different compounds used, there is no good answer because of the different cure rates, heat while curing, shrinkage and strength. wanting to know more and be able to discuss with intelligence I decided to do some testing that would help clear this up.

I recently pillar bedded a barreled action with my favorite compound and had plenty of time to test.

After installing the pillars and prepping the stock and barreled action I mixed my bedding compound
at 70o and started the clock.

The compound gives cure time and use time, so I wanted my test to verify these times. I always
mix up more than I need to keep from being short and having holidays in the finished bedding.
After setting the action and clamping it in place the surplus bedding compound is squeezed out.
After removing the excess and collecting it, I made a bunch of small beads about 3/16'' x 6'' in a piece of angle with release agent on it. and began the test. In 70o still air, I started monitoring
the temperature change in the compound. (In the past some bedding materials heated up a noticeable amount).

After 2 hours, the first sample was still very flexible and tacky so I left it alone. 4 hours in, it had become cured to the touch but was still not very hard so I left this sample in tack and moved on.

8 Hours later, the sample was cold to the touch and exothermic reaction appeared to be constant.
so I tried to bend one of my samples to the breaking point. Much to my surprise, it bent almost 90o
before it broke. (It was no where near its full strength)

Waiting the full cure time in the instructions, I tested another sample by bending it and again it bent close to 45o before it broke. it could be filed but very easily.

I always recommended several days before removal of the action from the stock and discovered that the time listed was minimal and the compound was not up to full strength. also after 5 to 7 days (Or more) I felt I could torque and shoot the rifle. I was wrong again. every day I would brake another sample and found out that the compound samples flexed before breaking up to 10 days.

I feel that if the compound will still flex before breaking it is not to full strength and still compressible. making it risky to torque the action before full hardness is reached.

I then decided to test some other compounds by making some samples and had different results
and these are my observations.

The faster the compound cured the higher the heat and shrinkage. (The poorer the final fit)
The slower the cure time the lower the heat and the shrinkage. (Not exactly rocket science) .

Different compounds showed different results and some "Never" totally set up hard and would bend
before breaking.

This test was very simple and a good way to evaluate your preferred compound to know when to remove the action without damage to the bedding, when to torque the action and when you can shoot the rifle without damaging the bedding. In all cases the manufactures times were insufficient
and more time was necessary in my opinion for the use and longevity we need.

I hope this helps someone and keeps them from destroying a perfectly good bedding job by torqueing and shooting it to soon.

J E CUSTOM
 
Well, pillar bedding seems a misnomer to me.
The pillars are not bedding, but what you tighten an action to(connection).
The bedding itself should provide no more than a glove fit(not support), and possibly dampening(like Browning Boss).
I have stocks finished with both hard bedding, and soft bedding. I'm torqueing to pillars either way, and load developed with respective builds, so they shoot as well.
I've also had guns with no bedding, only pillars (Savage, Tubb2K) that shot as good as any.

Other than fit & finish, the only critical aspect of bedding I can understand is in recoil lug connection with the stock. This needs to be as solid as pillars.
 
JE, thanks for the article. Perhaps you could list the brand or brands of compound so members could try or avoid them. I've read of members using a variety of compounds and it could render a beginner indecisive as to which is best. Some compounds I've seen here are Devcon, JB Weld, Acraglass and Marine-Tex being most common. I agree everyone has his favorite, but with your extensive testing, you must have one that stands out.
 
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How you mix them has a lot to do with this, when I bed a rifle the left over gets left in a pad close to the same thickness as when bedding would be so I can check it, I get no flexibility after 12 hours from Devcon or Marine Tex, I can take pliers and break it but zero bending, I have seen it once with Devcon and I had a mixing issue and I removed the bedding and redid it.
 
Very informative as usual, I will bed my factory rifles stocks but I ussually leave the bedding to the smith with my customs. I have always used Devcon puddy. What applications do you feel fit this compound best?
 
Everyone has there preferred method of bedding and I am no exception. The intent was to convince people not to get in a hurry when bedding. There are many hi Tec methods for testing hardness but most people don't have excess to a brinell hardness tester so this is a simple way to test your bedding before you torque the action screws and fire the rifle.

I consider pillars and bedding all part of a complete system and if one part is not done correctly, It will never be as good as it could be. If pillars are not installed correctly they are ineffective. If the bedding is not allowed to reach its full strength and hardness It will also not be as effective and lower the benefits of bedding at all.

I have seen good pillar installation and poor fitting bedding. (Either removed or fired to soon) allow the action to be removed from the bedding easily (A good bedding job should be difficult to remove if it is tight fitting for many years.

I have always waited longer than recommended and now I wait even longer if possible. I have no use for soft bedding or epoxies designed for bonding/gluing parts together because they never really harden in order to maintain there bond (Bond something soft and flexible with a hard material/resin and over time it will fail. But if you use a resin that never truly hardens and remains flexible it will last much longer)

The reason for a good pillar installation is to keep the bedding from being exposed to compression, the reason for using a resin that becomes very hard is for stability and longevity and this strength will prevent the changes in the stock from effecting the fitment of the action.

This is just an easy way to test your resin and find out if it is time to torque or not. the point was brought up about mixing the proper amounts of hardener to resin, and it should be because it does matter and has an effect on the end results. But how do you know if you did it perfectly or the resin or hardener was fresh and up to chemical potency? it may cure at a different rate and not be ready to load up with torque or firing.

J E CUSTOM
 
Bedding is most certainly not something one wants to get in a hurry about. If you do, the end results are likely to be poor at best.

I have used several different epoxies and like many others I've found the Devcon Putty to work well and it's easy to do a good job with. JB Weld is another that has worked well for me.

I always mix it on a paper plate and keep the excess around to check for curing. Years ago I used acraglass because that's what our local gunsmith used and just didn't find it's hardness and resiliency to be satisfactory enough. It felt more like a flexible plastic than a hardened epoxy so I finally found the others to work better for me.
 
Same for us up out way.

Take the time to think things threw before each step.

Look at the where the action meets the stock, consider all the areas that it is sitting on in factory mode,,, and what areas one wants to "improve",,, this is why we are bedding in the first place.

When we remove material from the stock we have the areas marked out before thinning these areas down,,, think this threw 3 X's too make sure it will benefit the rigid firmness that we want.
Taking away from any factory stock "could" make other areas pron to not supporting the replacement of bedding compounds.

Bedding in "plug form",,, we do this to ensure that the bedding peace added stays put.

Ruffed up area where compound is added, not too thick and not too thin as we consider the wear and tear of impact of shot after shot till the barrel is burnt out,,, one could consider this after we burn out the second barrel as this bedding job should still be intact once it's burnt out two.

I see if I can find the link to the pro Full Bore Wed sight that has one awesome you-tube break down on doing a top quality bedding and pill job that will take you and rifle too the Nationals,,, this fellow has many years under his belt.

His step by step is incredible as he explains the process and disadvantages along the way.

Each of us do our own thing, but when there is a test proven method that works for long range national shooters and their rifles, then I pay attention.

I'll post 2 awesome Web sites of folks that got it down pat as it ain't worth our time unless we achieve 100% quality satisfaction on each of our rifle work overs.

Don
 
Thought I might add something I've seen in bedding jobs. When bedding, check your action is not canted to the stock. Also the Savage splined barrel nut must have the splines filled with clay to prevent a mechanical bond to the stock.
 
Just keep in mind that there are many systems working.
I mention Browning Boss earlier. The bedding in this system is semi-rigid rubber, and it works really well to dampen and isolate the action from the stock. I think better than rigid bedding.

To test it, I bedded a stock for my 6br with ShoGoo. This rubber is pretty close to the hardness of the old school 'super ball' (back when they came in black only). And I bedded all interfaces including recoil lug and pillars. So when I tighten the loctite coated action screws the system is preloaded, but floating. Shoots very well for the past 15yrs. What I suspected about this, that turned out as I suspected, is that my accuracy would improve given varying stock tensions in the field.
I hunt groundhogs with this, and all shooting is off a Harris bipod, with much of it at different heights and up/down slope shots.

About 10yrs ago I had a LR bench gun built, with the stock finished by an IBS 'top ten'.
Absolutely perfect bedding job(hard as steel), and I suspect the gun could be fired without the actions in place at all. It fits that well. But, I have found with accuracy testing of it that this BR gun likes certain bag filling, and hates others. If I were to use 5 different bag fill media over a 5 shot sting, the grouping would go to hell.
I did some a/b testing of this failure mode with it and with my rubber bedded 6br. The rubber bedded gun seems immune to it, and while not as good in the precision department(under any constant condition), it is more accurate given this varying condition. Better for hunting.

Just wanted to point out that 'best' bedding is really not defined to date. Best could very well be different -for different shooting systems.
 
Devcon has some castable rubber products. They have some the hardness of car tire tread and harder.
 
Now that is worth looking into Mike.

What was the idea when this hardened rubber compound come out, and were there other folks that gave it a try.

I like the idea of shock resistance as it would with stand the shot after shot recoil in the silhouette stuff I practic up here.

The process would be the same as doing a regular bedding job I guess, and do you do the pillars to, or leave them as they are?

Pillars in this rubber mix as well.

Don
 
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