Stupid Questions

[HobieH3]

1) I don't have a torque wrench; Can I mark my receiver screws before removing the stock and return them to the same spot without seriously screwing () up?

2) From "Things That Looked Good on You-Tube But Are Probably Idiotic" (a LARGE category that would probably make an interesting thread): Coating the bolt with a polishing compound and working it a bunch to smooth out the action. Seems like if you DID NOT engage the lugs (close the bolt; just push it back and forth) it would be OK. Thoughts? NOTE: not a 6.5 CM.

3) Hornady Superperformance .270 Win (Jack O'Connor RULEZ!) with the ELD-X out of a 22" pipe: worth the money, or just an extra buck spent on muzzle blast?

 

[BallisticsGuy]

Probably not. Get a Fat wrench or a quality torque wrench from snap-on. I have both. The Fat wrench is in the field kit. The heavy steel one stays on the bench.

I guess you could but that'll open up tolerances a microscopic amount. Try just using some of this. Not a huge amount, just a light coat in the raceways.

If the Superperformance gives you more velocity without taking a lot more powder or driving pressures sky high and you've got the option. That said, there is no magical recipe, no magical bullet, no magical powder that will materially change anything. You can pump any round up to start out 100fps or so faster than it otherwise would and it won't make a squirt of cold pee's difference to anything you'll choose to do UNLESS you're choosing to do it at the supersonic limits of the cartridge at hand, in which case it might buy you an extra 100yrds of supersonic bullet flight. The idea that 3% more velocity is going to do anything special for the regular Joe-shooter is what I sardonically call "Racing Paper for Fun and Profit". It's always good to start out going as fast as you can WHILE being at as low a pressure as possible AND WHILE using the least amount of powder possible but chasing any of those 3 elements sacrifices the other 2 and usually ends up a WOMBAT (Waste Of Money, Brains And Time).

 

[MagnumManiac]

(1) I'll give you a well known tip in the engine building industry.
Use moly lube EVERY TIME you remove the screws upon re-assembly and buy yourself a set of 'T' handle Allen wrenches. The trick is to tighten the bolts until the handle moves and the shaft doesn't. This torque is roughly 65in/lbs on a 6/32 Allen wrench. As Allen wrenches get larger, so does the torque imparted to twist the handle.
I can use a breaker bar by feel to get 100ft/lbs on a head bolt almost every single time and do final torque down with a graduated torque wrench.
When a thread 'cracks' when you loosen it after 24 hours of sitting, you know you have stretched the threads around .001"-.002". This is what you want, even with a rifle.
(2) I lap the bolts where needed in the raceways. I use a lot of CZ550 Safari actions, New they are very tight and need polishing just as you describe, BUT LESS IS MORE. As soon as the tightness eases you need to stop.
I also lap the bolt lugs often on actions that the customer doesn't want a full blueprint on.
Often factory actions/rifles only have one lug contacting the recess on lockup, this needs addressing. You use Prussian Blue, or similar marking die, so you can see the contact point. The lug without any swipe is NOT TOUCHED, only the lug touching the action is lapped.
You lap this lug with hand pressure ONLY. The bolt MUST be stripped of the firing pin assembly.
You lap with FINE grit valve lapping paste, checking contact often, until the OTHER lug is making 50-75% contact swipe.
Going further is not necessary, as it often doesn't improve anything beyond that point. As long as both lugs are making contact at firing, the improvement has been made.
(3) We don't get Superformance powder here often, so I have never used it.

Cheers.

 

[HobieH3]

Thanks, guys.

Actually, I was wondering about the factory ammo.

 

[del2les]

I have used about every technique over the many decades, and marking screw alignment has been one of them. Not the most accurate way to torq, but it gets close (Note, this method isnt the best on old style wood without pillars). On our BR and varmint rifles, we use increasing torq amounts then fire groups until we find any positive changes. Some do, some don't care.

Lapping the bolt raceway with a lapping compound does work, and of course, a good locking lug lapping is considered standard on an accurate rifle. Most custom rifles have this performed when built, BUT, after some routine working of the bolt without a lapping compound, I use a teflon or Moly based lube to keep things smooth. Moly compounds can migrate everywhere, so depending on the compound, use light amounts. Remember, most any wet type lube or grease can attract and hold dirt/grit, so keep her clean. Often, I have used a drying silicone lube with some success, and it does not hold the grit like a wet lube.

Superformance ammo does increase velocity over a "standard" factory load, but it will be up to you to determine if it is of any real value to your particular hunting limits and abilities. If your hunting ranges are not overly distant and the game is not overly tough to anchor, it could be just a waste. But if other and you want every edge you can get, why not? Is a couple of inches of less drop and a few extra ft/lbs of energy worth the extra? Could be.....

 

[HobieH3]

(1) I'll give you a well known tip in the engine building industry.
Use moly lube EVERY TIME you remove the screws upon re-assembly and buy yourself a set of 'T' handle Allen wrenches. The trick is to tighten the bolts until the handle moves and the shaft doesn't. This torque is roughly 65in/lbs on a 6/32 Allen wrench. As Allen wrenches get larger, so does the torque imparted to twist the handle.
I can use a breaker bar by feel to get 100ft/lbs on a head bolt almost every single time and do final torque down with a graduated torque wrench.
When a thread 'cracks' when you loosen it after 24 hours of sitting, you know you have stretched the threads around .001"-.002". This is what you want, even with a rifle.
(2) I lap the bolts where needed in the raceways. I use a lot of CZ550 Safari actions, New they are very tight and need polishing just as you describe, BUT LESS IS MORE. As soon as the tightness eases you need to stop.
I also lap the bolt lugs often on actions that the customer doesn't want a full blueprint on.
Often factory actions/rifles only have one lug contacting the recess on lockup, this needs addressing. You use Prussian Blue, or similar marking die, so you can see the contact point. The lug without any swipe is NOT TOUCHED, only the lug touching the action is lapped.
You lap this lug with hand pressure ONLY. The bolt MUST be stripped of the firing pin assembly.
You lap with FINE grit valve lapping paste, checking contact often, until the OTHER lug is making 50-75% contact swipe.
Going further is not necessary, as it often doesn't improve anything beyond that point. As long as both lugs are making contact at firing, the improvement has been made.
(3) We don't get Superformance powder here often, so I have never used it.

Cheers.

Thanks.

Why remove the firing pin ashy? To make sure it stays clean?

Do you literally run with your finger?

 

[MagnumManiac]

The firing pin spring applies too much rearward pressure and could gall the mating surfaces.
Using your hand to pull back as you rotate the handle up and down is enough to remove the few tenths required and is only a fraction of the pressure imparted by the firing pin spring.

Cheers.