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Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by zookman, Mar 13, 2011.
is one bullet better to break in a barrel
Yes and no, I would stay away from the solid coppers but I usually use break in for initial load dvelopment. I pick a bullet and load a few with different charges and clean between shots. I shoot at the same point of aim and watch for a possible node and pressure signs. Buy the time it is broken in I usually have a load that only needs fine tuning. I feel this way I am not wasting bullets and powder plus I get some brass fire formed too.
I have used tubbs 2000 on a my 270 win, ar-15 and resorted my 220 swift. These are great bullets to break your barrel in with. Much less round through it and gives a great polish to the barrel.
I kind of agree with Broz... I wouldn't use the solid copper bullets, but I do prefer the E-Tips which are a solid (monometal) guilded metal bullet.
On load development with break-in... I've tried that with varying results and my approach now is to do them separately, one reason being, that it usually takes a couple to several shots to settle in a barrel after a good cleaning. That being said, one can hardly second guess Jeff's results.
I have always wondered about this method. Just been a little hesitant as it seems like it might be a little too abrasive and change the nature of the throat. It might be OK for factory barrels but I would probably pass on customs.
Sorry to drift off topic a little here but this could be relevan. Mark what are you using for a cleaner for break in?
I use to see the 2~3 shots to settle one in after cleaning. But since I have been using BoreTech CU+2 I don't see this. I will not say this is a proven deal, but I have tested this a few times. My first shot after cleaning has been 1/2 moa to point of aim even when tested at 1000 and 1400 yards. I decided to try this after reading on the bottle you can leave CU+2 in the bore as a storage protectant. Then simply patch dry and shoot. It has worked for me even after setting a week in the safe. Patched dry and first shot was in the 7" circle on my target at 1400... Well 1395 to be exact.
Shoot about 1000 paper patch through it....and it'll really smooth up!!lightbulb
What's paper patch?
Black powder cartridges. Not something one would use in a modern rifle unless of course it is a rifle designed to shoot a particular caliber using black powder/paper patch with lead bullets.
That's what I thought tank. No way I'm doing anything like that ! Blow up my new gun. Na
Jeff, I have been using Bore Tech Eliminator, but I did get a bottle of the CU+2. Your results sound great, so I'll give it a try with my next barrel. What are you doing about powder fouling? Also, I have yet to break-in a custom barrel. That will be next.
IMO, breaking in barrels is a waste of good components and time. My last three builds I have just taken out and shot,working up loads without any special cleaning-break in. Guess what? they are just as accurate as any of my other rifles that I meticulously"broke in". My borescope shows me they're just as smooth and stay just as copper free as the others....my barrel break in days are over.
You're wrong there Tank! Move over here:
One more question on paper patching - Cast Boolits and do a little reading and you'll find out quite a few guys are shooting PP bullets in MODERN RIFLES using smokeless powder! The bullets have just got to be patched to GROOVE DIAMETER! Works quite well up to velocities around 3000 fps+! Most use cast lead bullets but some are also patching undersize(Jacketed) bullets up to groove diameter! Works quite well!lightbulb
Well... it's the same ole debate. Some do and some don't. I don't do it for better accuracy. I do it just to try and work out the rough spots to decrease fouling for easier cleaning and longer strings between cleaning... and I have found this to be the case in the barrels that I've broke in which were all factory. Not as big an issue with a good custom barrel, but I'll still do it.