I bought a new rem 700. I started working up loads with imr 4350 and 4831. I've tried 180 nosler accubond and 168 ttsx Barnes. With all loads I've been experiencing stuck cases after just a couple grains over min load. I've never had something have this kind of pressure issues before. Also just a difference in a half grain shrinks my group from 1.5moa to .5 moa. The extra half grain also goes from no pressure what so ever to a stuck case. Any suggestions?
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Stuck case in 300 win
- Thread starter Mntnmanwv
- Start date
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hey
what type of brass are you using
norma have 2 different wights in brass for 300 win mag
the heavy are 270 grains
the light are 215 grains
loads for a nosler ballistic tip 150 grains are in
heavy min 71 grains norma mrp
max 74,8 grains mrp
light min are 75 grains mrp
max are 79,5 grains mrp
this is only an example taken out of normas reloading book
i always check that and never had a problem with loading for a 300 win
now i live i Europa and use mostly norma and wihtavuori powder
hope this helps you
what type of brass are you using
norma have 2 different wights in brass for 300 win mag
the heavy are 270 grains
the light are 215 grains
loads for a nosler ballistic tip 150 grains are in
heavy min 71 grains norma mrp
max 74,8 grains mrp
light min are 75 grains mrp
max are 79,5 grains mrp
this is only an example taken out of normas reloading book
i always check that and never had a problem with loading for a 300 win
now i live i Europa and use mostly norma and wihtavuori powder
hope this helps you
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Go to your local Ace Hardware store or similar and get a 0.250" brass rod. Will cost you maybe $8. Carefully insert it into the barrel. Mark it where it touches the muzzle. Then wrap that spot with one wrap of electrical tape.
Reseat the brass rod. Tap with plastic mallet or similar hard enough to dislodge the case.
Do not use a cleaning rod. It will simply bend.
Here's hoping you were interested in removing the stuck case. And not something else.
Reseat the brass rod. Tap with plastic mallet or similar hard enough to dislodge the case.
Do not use a cleaning rod. It will simply bend.
Here's hoping you were interested in removing the stuck case. And not something else.
Your description has some of us confused. Is a case stuck in the firearm or are you having difficultly extracting the case? If you eventually get the case out it isn't stuck. If you are removing these "sticky" cases there can be evidence as to why they are not easily removed.
If bolt handle is hard to open I'd suggest pressure. Do you chronograph your loads? You could be over the pressure limits but be under max load data suggestions.
If bolt opens easily but won't go rearwards with difficulty I'd suggest a chamber with a enlarged area. The case is swelling to fit that larger dia area and resists rearward movement. It can happen due to a very high pressure round going off at some point, bulging the chamber just in front of the web area. It could have been done when it was chambered. All subsequent rounds fired, even low loads will have same problem in removal. A tell tale shiny area will show on case near web.
Please give us more details.
If bolt handle is hard to open I'd suggest pressure. Do you chronograph your loads? You could be over the pressure limits but be under max load data suggestions.
If bolt opens easily but won't go rearwards with difficulty I'd suggest a chamber with a enlarged area. The case is swelling to fit that larger dia area and resists rearward movement. It can happen due to a very high pressure round going off at some point, bulging the chamber just in front of the web area. It could have been done when it was chambered. All subsequent rounds fired, even low loads will have same problem in removal. A tell tale shiny area will show on case near web.
Please give us more details.
The stuck cases have a shiney spot just in front of the belt. The bolt lifts normal it just won't come back. I have my bullet seated .020 off the lands. I have had the same problem with nosler bullets as I have Barnes. I'm getting this pressure with 68.5 gr of 4350 and 68 gr of 4831. I can back it off a grain and the case doesn't stick but the groups are big. Add a grain I get 1/2 moa but every other case will stick. I'm wondering if I have a chamber defect. I've been loading for 4 yrs with no problems. I'm new to the magnums and Barnes bullets though.
crazyhorse
Well-Known Member
A friend of mine had the same problem with a 7 STW. He carried to a gunsmith who polished the chamber and it completely fixed the problem. He said that there was some type of imperfection in the chamber that when the brass swelled during firing caused it to stick. He did this while he waited.
That shiny spot confirms you have an anomoly in your chamber which is larger than the rest of the chamber. The brass is expanding to conform to the larger area. While the brass does contract after firing that shiny area is larger than the chamber just behind it and you are fighting to push it into a smaller space hence the shiny spot. I know I have had this happen too.
Because this is a new rifle I'd bring it back to the gunstore with some of those fired rounds. If you cannot get satisfaction you may have to send it back to the manufacturer.
Because this is a new rifle I'd bring it back to the gunstore with some of those fired rounds. If you cannot get satisfaction you may have to send it back to the manufacturer.
Thanks for you're help. I'm using Winchester brass which is what I use in all my rifles. I'm gonna try some factory loads to see if it still sticks. If so I'm going to have my chamber looked at by a gunsmith. Being that the rifle is brand new should I call Remington? Also I use a O.A.L. Gauge and comparator from hornady. I use this method to seat all my hunting guns at .020 of the lands, then I start working up my powder charge. All my non magnums shoot great and usually preform at + or - 1 gr of max charge with no pressure signs. Has anyone had bullet seat depth effect magnums this much?
Good idea to shoot some factory stuff as a control. I am certain it is the chamber and not your loads. Talk to the place that sold you the rifle and show them the fired factory brass. I would think a good gunstore would replace it for you, but you never know you might have to deal with Remington.
As for seating bullets into the rifling I build a 7 rem mag with a match chamber reamer, had to turn the necks, and shot the 180 Berger VLDs .035" into the rifling! As long as you work up the load after establishing the seating depth you will be fine.
As for seating bullets into the rifling I build a 7 rem mag with a match chamber reamer, had to turn the necks, and shot the 180 Berger VLDs .035" into the rifling! As long as you work up the load after establishing the seating depth you will be fine.
I'm also thinking it's a rough and/or imperfect chamber.
Personally I would not tolerate anyone polishing the chamber to repair a poor chamber job. IF you could get the case to come out of the chamber easily think of the shape of the area near the web! The chamber already is larger than specified, polishing would make it worse.
7stw
Well-Known Member
I noticed you said " new " Remington, and I believe that what AZSHOOTER said is accurate. When the rifle was chambered, it is possible,( probable ) that your chamber has a " wide" spot, forward of the belt, that when fired, creates a mechanical lock, until you are able to cam it off of that spot. I have seen this of late, and when you said the rifle is new, well that sealed the deal. Your rifle may need a trip back to Ilion.
Your load data definitely dosent indicate high pressure, maybe except for the bullet jam. You may want to contact Remington!!!
Your load data definitely dosent indicate high pressure, maybe except for the bullet jam. You may want to contact Remington!!!
