Stock Bedding Question

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by ltrmc02, May 25, 2015.

  1. ltrmc02

    ltrmc02 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    49
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    I have watched several videos and read many articles on stock bedding and have a few rifles I want to do this to but I'm a bit unsure on how much stock material and where all to take material out to make room for the bedding compound. I know not to grind out around the rear tang and around the bolt holes or pillars too much so not to change the height the action sits in the stock but for the rest of it how much thickness do you take out and do you drill holes or grind slots to anchor the compound better, if so how deep, where and what diameter holes? I read one article that I had planned to follow but it said to grind out 1/4" behind the recoil lug??? That didn't sound right but I may could see doing that on a wood stock but probably not on an aluminum bed block stock, just not sure of the inleting part so any experienced help is appreciated.

    I'm not sure which rifle I want to start on first but I have 3 Remington 700 two with aluminum block stocks and one BDL wood stock. I think I'll try those first then if all goes well will try my Savage 12 in a laminate stock as I heard the Savage was a bit more tricky that Remy 700s.

    I already have my compound and release agent and a good ideal of how to set the action and secure it for curing so mainly interested in how to inlet the stock properly. Thanks.
     
  2. Edd

    Edd Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,015
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2011
    McMillan has bedded a lot of stocks. Kelly McMillan said they allowed .035" for bedding.

    Chad Dixon does the nicest bedding jobs I've ever seen. He inlets his stocks so the bedding will be .050" thick.
     
  3. ltrmc02

    ltrmc02 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    49
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Thanks for that info. I did another search last night and saw a few new videos that I hadn't yet seen on the inleting for bedding process but I still am wondering should I cut the rear of the recoil lug slot back by a quarter of an inch or any amount at all like I read in one article? I can't seem to find any video or any other article that tells much specifics about taking out material around the recoil lug slot in the stock.

    I referred back to the article I had planned to follow and it is geared toward bedding a laminate wood stock on a bench rest rifle. I just wonder if I should cut the recoil lug area back as described on a full aluminum bed block stock?

    Referenced link: Stress-Free Pillar Bedding
     
  4. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,345
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2004
    There are many different ways to bed a rifle that are good. I like to place the barreled action in the stock to see how it sits first and remove only any material that holds it improperly

    If all is well I then install the pillars and make any adjustments I need to. after the pillars are set
    and holding the barreled action where I want it then I start the removal of material where the bedding goes with barrel scrapers and power tools in the action area.

    As far as the recoil lug area, I only remove as much material as necessary to center the action screws in the stock. I don't like to remove to much from the recoil slot because it weakens the stock and is not necessary anyway.

    Before any bedding is applied I like to check and re check the fit and to make sure I have removed any surface that might have any finish or oil on it to get a good bond. (Note ; don't apply any release agent to the action until ALL fitting is done so you wont contaminate the bonding surface).

    I like to use past wax applied several hours before bedding.

    Bedding is not so much for strength as it is for fit, so the amount of material you remove is not as important as the preparation of the bonding area to be bedded.

    I also don't use the action screws for bedding because they can induce stress and render the bedding job ineffective.

    Preparation is the key to a good bedding jobs, so be sure it is ready and you are happy with the fit and prep work and you will do fine.

    PS Use a compound that is designed for bedding, do a search for bedding compounds and you will get some idea which you should use that is the most forgiving for a newbie to bedding.

    Hope this helps

    J E CUSTOM
     
  5. Dr. Vette

    Dr. Vette Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,209
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2009
    For the Remingtons with the aluminum blocks take a hard look at Ernie's AccuRisers:
    NO 6. All stocks need pillars, even stocks with bedding blocks

    I've bedded Remingtons with and without them, and using them can really work well. It takes a bit more time to determine what thickness you want, but it avoids having the action "lay" on the stock and therefore minimizes thin areas of bedding.
     
  6. eshorebwhntr

    eshorebwhntr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    378
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    I've only bedded a few rifles in my day but will let you know what I do and hopefully help you with your decision. I'm not a gunsmith at all. I've just done my own guns and a few for friends.

    JE Custom was dead on with everything he has said. My experience echo's all his comments. I remove a small amount of material around the recoil lug recess area and that's it (other than drilling for pillars). The important part is keeping the surface area optimal to bond to the compound.

    When I bed the stock I ultimately want a stress free snug fit between the action and stock. I don't remove any stock material other than in the recoil lug area after I have drilled, installed and test fit the pillars. For this I chuck the stock in the mill (you can use a dremel, just be careful) and remove a small amount of material on the ACTION SIDE of the recoil lug recess. Around a 1/4" is sufficient. I do this so that the recoil lug is pulling up against a good, solid, hard, mated surface. I also go out to the sides of the stock in the recoil lug recess and cut 2 "ears" back toward the ACTION SIDE of the recess. This, again, is just give the recoil lug area more room for epoxy to set and grab.

    I also tape off the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug with 10 mil plumbers tape. I put 2 wraps of the tape down the length of the barrel to rest in the barrel channel of the stock. In theory this provides a minimum of 20 mil clearance the length of the barrel.

    Test fit everything several times with your pillars, bottom metal, action and stock before setting anything. Run yourself through the whole process mentally each time so that all the tools you need are handy and your not scrambling around.