xsn10s
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2016
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I'd call the smith and ask them. Heck you spent good money, they should be able to tell you what their spec is.
Bedding question
- Thread starter Varmint Hunter
- Start date
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First and foremost check that all of your mounting screws are tight, not bottoming out or are stripped out in some fashion so that when they are torqued down the screws can do their job. Even if you "do" grab the scope to see if it moves, that doesn't mean that the scope is not moving under recoil. Again go back to the basics and put another scope that you know is reliable and "then" see how the rifle groups. There's not reason that you cannot have two issues going on with your rifle, try a process of elimination to figure out what is going on with the gun.
As for bedding you will get a number of opinions on the process; sort of like cooks with their recipes. When I do a bedding job usually I will have to tap the action in and have to pull up on the barrel and the receiver using the bolt to hold onto. Usually before I touch any wood I will pillar bed the action screws to make sure that once I do remove wood the action will be held up by the pillars so I don't lose the how the rifle sits in the stock. Once pillar bedded I remove about 1/8th of an inch around all of the areas where wood touches metal some areas that much wood cannot be removed because the stock is too thin; barrel channel recoil lug. I make a dam at the fore end and also a dam in the magazine box with putty. I then use plumbers tape that I get from Brownells and put two layers of the tape, .020 thousandths, starting 4 inches in front of the recoil lug. When I am done with the epoxy bedding I am left with an action that is pillar bedded and glass bedding behind the recoil lug and 4 inches in front of the recoil lug, and then a barrel that if free floated with a nice .020 thousandths inch relief all around the barrel and a .020 thousandths seam where the barrel meets the stock. Good luck with your rifle, I think if you check the sighting system and bed it the gun will shoot.
I would take it back apart, coat the surfaces of the barrel and action that are inside the stock/bedding with Jarrows Ink, black or gold (I like the gold easier to see),
Then put it back together torqueing the screws ( and then back apart ), note where it touches and doesn't. Take Pictures !!!! Try different torque settings to see if the ink shows a change in the fit/contact. Again, take Pictures !!!
That way you know what you have.
Then you are ready to talk to the smith that did the work, or do it yourself.
Then put it back together torqueing the screws ( and then back apart ), note where it touches and doesn't. Take Pictures !!!! Try different torque settings to see if the ink shows a change in the fit/contact. Again, take Pictures !!!
That way you know what you have.
Then you are ready to talk to the smith that did the work, or do it yourself.
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if you can move the action in the stock, it's not bedded correctly. Simply torquing it down doesn't remedy the problem with action "rattling around like a BB in a box car" It must be bedded to achieve consistent accuracy potential. IMHO
onlythebestisgoodenough
Active Member
Hello
My take on all of this mate is make sure that the Lug is completely bedded, No movement at all ! and also make sure that where your action screws are that there is very little if any movement in these holes to screw fit if there is make some new sleeves from TITAINIUM and bed these in and then you might be able to attain good groups ( action screws and torqued them to 65 in/lbs Max ) note not ft/lbs like I have seen some guys try to do ? . I do this to most of if not all my Rifles and with the combination of a good bedding job you should be able to repeat good groups from your rifle with the same loads and provided that your rifle cleaning regime is very good too , this works for Me !
Stay Safe and Shoot Safe allways
God bless you all , God bless America
Steve
My take on all of this mate is make sure that the Lug is completely bedded, No movement at all ! and also make sure that where your action screws are that there is very little if any movement in these holes to screw fit if there is make some new sleeves from TITAINIUM and bed these in and then you might be able to attain good groups ( action screws and torqued them to 65 in/lbs Max ) note not ft/lbs like I have seen some guys try to do ? . I do this to most of if not all my Rifles and with the combination of a good bedding job you should be able to repeat good groups from your rifle with the same loads and provided that your rifle cleaning regime is very good too , this works for Me !
Stay Safe and Shoot Safe allways
God bless you all , God bless America
Steve
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Rflshootr
Well-Known Member
Torque them to 40-45 in/lb and shoot it. Then you'll know if you truly have a problem. Put both screws in finger tight or a little better. Stand the rifle on the butt pad, make sure the action is sitting in the stock properly and torque the front screw first, then the rear.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the helpful ideas. I'm away moose hunting this week so I won't get back to the rifle for at least 10 days or so.
I did check with the manufacturer of the bottom metal who said that 65 in/lbs was no problem and that the billet metal could withstand much more without harm.
I did check with the manufacturer of the bottom metal who said that 65 in/lbs was no problem and that the billet metal could withstand much more without harm.
wishing you a successful & safe hunt
