Stock bedding question

[Kmccord]

I tried to do it on the cheap with what I had on hand. I had to buy some JB weld…but that's it. I had everything else. I'm glad I found a use for the Hornady one shot. I don't use it on cases anymore after having a couple cases stick. It's been lying around looking for a use.

Something else I am going to try, I am going to build a puller like the one LRI sells for pulling the action straight out of the stock. I have some aluminum angle iron I will use, if I cannot build it correctly, I will buy the one LRI has online.

 

[epoletna]

I tried to do it on the cheap with what I had on hand. I had to buy some JB weld…but that's it. I had everything else. I'm glad I found a use for the Hornady one shot. I don't use it on cases anymore after having a couple cases stick. It's been lying around looking for a use.

i was reluctannt to use One Shot at first, believing anything in a spray can could not be as good as case lube you apply with a pad or your fingertips. Over the past few years i have started using One Shot more and more because I think I have figured out how to use it properly.

I now stand my cases up in a loading block or on the top off a shoe box. I shoot One Shot on all cases from slightly above, so it hits the shoulders and a little goes in the case necks. Then I rotate the loading block (or box top) 180* so I can hit the other side of the shoulder and neck.

And here's the important part -- I then let it dry at least a full minute. I think that's the secret with One Shot.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

i was reluctannt to use One Shot at first, believing anything in a spray can could not be as good as case lube you apply with a pad or your fingertips. Over the past few years i have started using One Shot more and more because I think I have figured out how to use it properly.

I now stand my cases up in a loading block or on the top off a shoe box. I shoot One Shot on all cases from slightly above, so it hits the shoulders and a little goes in the case necks. Then I rotate the loading block (or box top) 180* so I can hit the other side of the shoulder and neck.

And here's the important part -- I then let it dry at least a full minute. I think that's the secret with One Shot.

Not to derail the thread, but…

I switched to Dillion lube long ago and find it's the best for me. It never over-lubes and I have never had a stuck case. Occasionally, I'll use Imperial Sizing wax for small batch jobs.

 

[VinceMule]

Freefloat forward of the recoil lug. I degrease the area forward of the recoil lug, then put a piece of Duct tape down and press it firmly. Then, put some release agent on the duct tape. After the bedding is cured, just pull the duct tape out, all epoxy forward of the recoil lug will come out easily. I put a 45* angle on the edges of the recoil lug with a small file as an aid in removal.

Key to a good bedding job is to let the bedding sit up a minimum of three days prior to removal from the stock, don't touch it, seven days is even better. When using Marine Tex, I give a skim coat after the initial cure.

I put pillars in all my stocks, prior to bedding, and using a piloted end mill makes boring the holes out an easy job

Remember, on actions with three screws, that third screw should only be finger nail tight, you do not want to put stress on the center of the action bending the action/

Also critical is to freefloat your magazine box between the action and the floor plate, you should be able to easily wiggle it with your finger when you drop the floor plate, the accuracy of many rifles has been ruined by a magazine box that is pushing up on the center of the action. Height of the mag box is easily decreased by filing off the bottom of the mag box or using a belt sander to accomplish the same.

Actions where the screw goes into the recoil lug should not have their bottoms floated, all others should not touch on the bottom.