So much for: "They don't build em' like they used to."

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sorry to dissent, but I'm going to stick with Gale as IMHO he is the expert of record.


I'm not telling anyone else what to do, nor will I be told what to do.

BTW a difference of opinion does not require an apology. Civil adult men can agree to disagree.

I think what one has to consider is barrel quality from the start. Over the decades, I would say most, if not all, of my BR and custom barrels that were well made and hand lapped began their shooting life with little to no breakin. However, most factory barrels and some aftermarket barrels, have not been of the best quality, and this seems to be were a proper breakin and/or hand or fire lapping has its merits. At least, that has been my and a few others' experience.
 
Sorry to dissent, but I'm going to stick with Gale as IMHO he is the expert of record.


I'm not telling anyone else what to do, nor will I be told what to do.

BTW a difference of opinion does not require an apology. Civil adult men can agree to disagree.
We all disagree on here often, but I think these comments are what is taken as rude:

"I notice you ducked my challenge as we both know that 10 shots won't remove all the marks typical in almost any new low to medium priced rifle's factory barrel.

Not quite sure how you became an expert on barrels when all you sell are muzzle brakes."

We all have ways of break-in, cleaning, sighting in, load development and chambering that differ. We just need to be civil is all. Have a great night
 
I will give my few cents here, I have fire-lapped a few barrels, but after I got JE's barrel break in procedure, I used it in conjunction with a fire-lapping of a new barrel. It is painstaking to do and takes a while. But I like the results. A while back I had did the barrel break in by a manufacturers method and although I have been shooting through the same hole on some loads, I thought I was seeing copper in the barrel so I bought a bore scope and the barrel was pretty fouled, I have cleaned it up good and will run it through the break-in process that JE described as I noticed some high spots in the rifling. The barrel that was replaced was a savage barrel and although it was an accurate shooter it was a real pain to clean, after pulling the barrel off and noticed it had machine groves throughout the barrel observed using my new bore scope. That barrel was fire-lapped and wasn't really ever broken in, but the hours it took to clean, I do believe that the break-in process helps. After reading this forum, in the future when I have another action I will clean this old barrel up and break it in and see if it improves as it was not shot out yet but wanted a larger caliber and had bought another rifle in 300 win mag. With my old 180 grain Nosler partition loads the rifle used to consistently shoot 1/2" to 5/8" three shot groups at 100 yards, rifle was pillar bedded, then fully bedded, had timney trigger, muzzle brake and limbsaver pad.
 
J.E. is a stand up guy. He's offered sound advice many many times on this forum. I have yet to see him post any advice that was that would lead someone in the wrong direction. Saying all of this, even if I myself or anyone else didn't or doesn't agree with friendly advice such as J.E. offered in this thread, then we can choose to make the decision ourselves on what to do with the subject at hand but that doesn't warrant taking jabs at J.E. when he wasn't jabbing at anyone himself.
 
Sorry to dissent, but I'm going to stick with Gale as IMHO he is the expert of record.


I'm not telling anyone else what to do, nor will I be told what to do.

BTW a difference of opinion does not require an apology. Civil adult men can agree to disagree.
Ok MudRunner, No one told you what to. JE made a suggestion and as was stated earlier he's forgot more than most of us combined know and you do owe the man an apology, I will tell you this and while I'm sure you do not care as you have and continue to show but you will have absolutely no credibility with me as you have already disrespected one of the elite members of this site in your first 19 day's, once again I'll suggest you read the Forum rules as they enforce them here, Just a friendly heads up
 
Had my ancient 722 244 forever. Now it's sitting a Hogue stock with a 15X 2" Unertl on it.

It's always shot well --- .75 MOA and I never did any fancy cleaning. After reading all the good stuff about Bore Tech products, I bought all of the stuff from Midway, red the instructions and went at it.

Almost ran out of patches before I gave up on not getting blue green ones.

Ran 3 w/Acetone and 3 dry down the bore and fired up the bore scope. Holy drill marks Batman !

End to end in the grooves are drill marks that the button did not smooth out. I've had several 722s and 721s and none looked like this. Gonna try fire lapping tomorrow and see.

That failing I have the perfect excuse to buy a Varmint weight in 243 AI !
Difficult to tell if you are bitching or bragging as I read your fantastic adventure in savage trash heaps. But it's entertaining to watch you rub your nose in your own crap!
 
No matter whose barrel I see abrasives as a last resort, not the first option.
I got a Criterion barrel years ago. Looking through it, it looked perfect, then I cleaned it and suddenly the bore looked rough. I used KG products, nothing too harsh.

I made a decision to use JB Bore Paste at that point, then i did a break in procedure but i paid attention to how difficult cleaning was. After 2-3 shoot and clean, I i used the JB again. I may have used it once more, i don't recall but my bore started cleaning up really easy at around 7 shots, then I think I shot 3 and clean, then 5 and clean.

Everything went good, the rifle shoots 1/2" and cleans up easy.

I'm a believer in break in and abrasives when applied properly. I don't believe there is one formula that works for every barrel so start with a goal and a strategy but don't be afraid to change it up depending on what your barrel tells you.
 
When I first started posting on this site JE was one of the first that gave me advice and offered thoughts about some of my basic questions. He got my respect and always has it, when I see someone act like that with his attempts to just help out it gives me a real insight into what that poster is made of. To start off as a new member and show everyone just how you deal with established and respected members you simply set the tone for your stay here. Bean gave you some wise advice...........

Far as barrel break in goes I break in factory and match barrels the same way, shoot and clean for first 10 and then start to get into shooting and or load work. NO the factory barrels don't become mirrors inside, heck I shoot savages :) but it makes a big difference with cleaning. If it needs fire lapping then I need a new barrel, that simple. They are a cheap commodity in this game and worth considering. I have factory barrels that shoot 1/4-1/2" and I would never change them till they shoot out, but that said they take a lot more patches and time to clean. Dave
 
When I first started posting on this site JE was one of the first that gave me advice and offered thoughts about some of my basic questions. He got my respect and always has it, when I see someone act like that with his attempts to just help out it gives me a real insight into what that poster is made of. To start off as a new member and show everyone just how you deal with established and respected members you simply set the tone for your stay here. Bean gave you some wise advice...........

Far as barrel break in goes I break in factory and match barrels the same way, shoot and clean for first 10 and then start to get into shooting and or load work. NO the factory barrels don't become mirrors inside, heck I shoot savages :) but it makes a big difference with cleaning. If it needs fire lapping then I need a new barrel, that simple. They are a cheap commodity in this game and worth considering. I have factory barrels that shoot 1/4-1/2" and I would never change them till they shoot out, but that said they take a lot more patches and time to clean. Dave
He's a Honey ShoNuff, What tickles me is the rifle in question was discontinued in 1962, its a little late in the game to be worrying about it now IMO ........ "MudRunner Lives Matter "..........
 
He's a Honey ShoNuff, What tickles me is the rifle in question was discontinued in 1962, its a little late in the game to be worrying about it now IMO ........ "MudRunner Lives Matter "..........
Ya',,, someone needs to tell him the 722/721 is how they used to make 'um! Not that there aren't plenty of factory barrels, full of 'rail road tracks', being sold today. A 50+ yr old rifle, chambered in .244 Rem, is probably pretty well worn by now....... Guys like him are the reason fewer and fewer working gunsmiths bother to post here.
 
Ya',,, someone needs to tell him the 722/721 is how they used to make 'um! Not that there aren't plenty of factory barrels, full of 'rail road tracks', being sold today. A 50+ yr old rifle, chambered in .244 Rem, is probably pretty well worn by now....... Guys like him are the reason fewer and fewer working gunsmiths bother to post here.
Exactly
 
I appreciate all the kudos, But there are plenty of knowledgeable people on this site. everything I post is from my experience and not an opinion. (I do have some of them but try not to post then until they become fact).

I also like simple fixes than have been proven and also like to start with something that doesn't risk damage. Some times the little things can make huge differences, so I like to try them first. some fixes come with a cost, and these need to be weighed against the results because you can't take them back.

The reason I don't use factory barrels to build custom rifles is simple, It's "Not" a custom rifle and the chances of a 1/10th MOA rifle are non existent. You might end up with a 1 Moa rifle or even a 1/2 Moa rifle but the odds get greater as you try for 1/4 to 1/2 Moa.

So the quote: "You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear" comes to mind. Everyone has their
standards and can do what's necessary to reach their goal. My goal is to build rifles that shoot below 1/4 Moa every time. So far I have not been able to do it, But you have to try if you intend to reach or improve your goal.

Disagreements are healthy as long as they are based on real world results/test and not based on hearsay. 👍👍👍

J E CUSTOM
 
Well JH, I am apologizing for my off subject remarks. They were unwarrented "shots" and inappropriate.

We'll agree to disagree.

As for all those who feel they are "double secret" site self appointed police. My response is a yawn.There are 1000s on every internet site regardless if the subject is guns or sewing. The insults, veiled threats and endless whining are the province of keyboard warriors who probably would never act the way they do in the real world.

As for the 244, I'll have bore pics up later.
 
Well JH, I am apologizing for my off subject remarks. They were unwarrented "shots" and inappropriate.

We'll agree to disagree.

As for all those who feel they are "double secret" site self appointed police. My response is a yawn.There are 1000s on every internet site regardless if the subject is guns or sewing. The insults, veiled threats and endless whining are the province of keyboard warriors who probably would never act the way they do in the real world.

As for the 244, I'll have bore pics up later.
You cant even get the apology done correctly and I'm not the site police, I was just giving friendly advice which I see you have no interest in, as far as Key Board Warriors you seem to fit the description that you gave, Keep yawning and as I said earlier you've made quite the impression
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top