Setting up a NXS Scope- How to do it ??

Down Under Hunter

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Hey guys,

Just go my new shooter with 40 moa NF rail and 5.5 x 22 x56 NXS scope. The gun has been test fired at 300 yards and then scope with rings attached were removed before shipping. I have now bolted the scope back on and set the eye relief. The scope is mounted back on the second most rear position on the rail.

Currently the guns elevation adjustment is at 20 moa up from its lowest position. I'm guessing that was where the 300 yard zero was ?

I just assume that when I shoot a 100 yard zero this weekend that I should start with the scope elevation wound right down, test and bring it up until it arrives at 100 yard zero. I was told that I would have only 4-8 moa left to go down in elevation when zeroed at 100 yards.

I quess I just have it wound right down , and progressively bring it up as needed ?? This is just to allow me all the elevation the scope has to dial it way out yonder ?

The load is 300 smk 92 H1000 338 EDGE.

Am I on the right track here ??

Cheers

DUH
 
I tend to do it the easy way with bolt action rifles. I set them up stable in a cleaning stand, pull the bolt and aim the barrel across the street at the corner of the neighbors house, without moving the rifle, I adjust the scope to coincide with where the barrel is pointing. (this is after mounting the scope so the crosshairs are perfectly in line with the action. "Action level, crosshairs level")

At the range, I simply shoot it at the berm and see how close I am to my aimpoint. Since the berm is 50' wide and 20' high, I'm usually that close ;-)

Then just adjust as necessary.

Good luck and keep us posted,

AJ
 
I would suggest simply putting up a large sheet of cardboard, cut up a big box for instance, place it at 25 yards and make a small aiming mark. Let fly one shot, hold the rifle very steady, aim it at the little dot, then get a partner to move the crosshairs over to the bullet hole. Then move the big cardboard to 100 yards and repeat, you will get on quickly and know what is going on since the big target should catch your bullets.
Good luck, sounds like you have a great rifle and scope to setup. After you get your 100 yard zero you should mark the right side of the elevation turret with nail polish or a tiny scratch so you know where you have to be for that 100 zero. Very easy to get out a turn, we have all been there.
 
ifin you shoot at 25 yards tripple your scope movements
50 yards double them,this will save bullets for down range shooting.
ive done both ways as said above but i'd combine them both the big cardboard shows exactly where your bullets going with out it fustration some calling fast. enjoy that new rifle she''s a beauty 4 sure!
regards jjmp
 
Len, AJ and JJMP

Thanks for your advice. SOunds exactly what I would do for a regular scope without turrents and moa rail. I thought there may have been something else involved. Im guessing at 100 she will shoot high and I'll crank it down. I'm sure it is still probably where Shawn left it at the 300 yard point.

Hopefully I'll get some new brass loaded at the weekend and be on the range post haste.

Do you think I would be better to just run some medium fireforming type rounds or run the 300 smk load at 92 H 1000 and at least learn something about the trajectory of the big sierra ??

Thanks

DUH
 
Without diggin into details, things seem in order.
The scope has 100moa of elevation. Plus a small amount with scope height.
Thats 50+height from center in moa - (40 base bias, minus your 300yd comeup) = ~20moa from stop
 
I wrote an article that is on the home page which should help with setting up your scope.

For fine tuning your short range zero and maximize your elevation adjustment, the Burris Sig rings w/inserts are ideal.

Good luck. Sounds like you will have a superb boomer.

Jerry
 
Another thing you should do to see if your scope is "square" is to set your target out say 400 m and "walk" it up and down the paper. If it walks a verticle line, then you know it's mounted right.
db
 
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