scope rail bedding front or rear of the base?

Winkfish

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
192
Location
Wisconsin
Question for you guys,
I have a Remington 700 SA in 308. I was going to install a new scope base on the rifle tonight when I ran into a little issue / question. The base I was going to use is an extreme hardcore gear 20 moa base.

When I place the base on the action and tighten only the front screws I can see daylight about a paper thickness across the rear mounting area.

I removed the front screws and did the same thing to the rear.

When I only place the rear screws in the front of the base has about the same paper thickness space across the entire front mounting area.

My question is should I apply bedding compound to the front only, rear only or both?

Thank you for your input.
 

Hired Gun

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Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
1,561
Location
North Bend, Oregon
I bed both ends. Marine Tex is my preferred material. It has the highest compressive strength of all but Devcon Titanium and it's real close to that. It's usually easier to obtain and work with. It's the only epoxy I use.

While setting up the rail thoroughly degrease both the rail and the action with Acetone or Alcohol. You want it on there as secure as possible. I have even drilled the rail and action for hardened shear pins on heavy kickers. Most don't need this extreme remedy. Bigger screws offer nothing so save that option for repair if ever needed. Once you fit the screws for length only tighten the screws the most minimal amount to get a single point of contact in the front and the same in the rear.

Only use release agent on the screws and the holes in the action. If you ever need to remove the rail, a couple seconds of heat from a propane torch will take it right off.

Once cured pull the screws and clean up the epoxy on the screws and any extra showing in the holes. Apply blue Loctite and lightly snug up the screws. Using a dial type torque wrench torque it down to 18-22 inch pounds max on the base and 16 inch pounds on the caps. Hate to distort your scope tube after getting the mounts perfect. The Seekonk 1-75 inch pound torque wrench is a nice one for the money.
1 TO 75 INCH POUND VARIABLE TORQUE WRENCH | Brownells

p_792000001_1.jpg


Almost done. Dow double check the rail with a machinist straight edge. If it's tweaked either do it again or plan on lapping your rings every time they are moved to a different slot or put on another scope. Not a big deal for the precision you will gain.
 

Winkfish

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Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
192
Location
Wisconsin
Thank you both for the information. I have picked up the supplies locally today and I will give it a shot this evening.
 

Winkfish

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
192
Location
Wisconsin
Just watched the video and that is exactly how I mounted it and went through the process. I will hopefully get my scope tonight and I will be good to go.

Thank you,
 

jakebrake

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2010
Messages
84
I bed both ends. Marine Tex is my preferred material. It has the highest compressive strength of all but Devcon Titanium and it's real close to that. It's usually easier to obtain and work with. It's the only epoxy I use.

While setting up the rail thoroughly degrease both the rail and the action with Acetone or Alcohol. You want it on there as secure as possible. I have even drilled the rail and action for hardened shear pins on heavy kickers. Most don't need this extreme remedy. Bigger screws offer nothing so save that option for repair if ever needed. Once you fit the screws for length only tighten the screws the most minimal amount to get a single point of contact in the front and the same in the rear.

Only use release agent on the screws and the holes in the action. If you ever need to remove the rail, a couple seconds of heat from a propane torch will take it right off.

Once cured pull the screws and clean up the epoxy on the screws and any extra showing in the holes. Apply blue Loctite and lightly snug up the screws. Using a dial type torque wrench torque it down to 18-22 inch pounds max on the base and 16 inch pounds on the caps. Hate to distort your scope tube after getting the mounts perfect. The Seekonk 1-75 inch pound torque wrench is a nice one for the money.
1 TO 75 INCH POUND VARIABLE TORQUE WRENCH | Brownells

p_792000001_1.jpg


Almost done. Dow double check the rail with a machinist straight edge. If it's tweaked either do it again or plan on lapping your rings every time they are moved to a different slot or put on another scope. Not a big deal for the precision you will gain.
That Devcon fiberglass will degrade with time.I have a friend who makes knifes and uses it for the handles.I think he said he gets 2 or 3 yrs before it breaks down.He now uses that gel type sold at Brownells and dont have any problems.
 
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