Scope mounting way off!

The rings aren't lined up. Millets can be a pain to line up properly. Or the scope is way out of adjustment and not close to center

 

Use a lapping bar as a guide, and line them up with the bore and true to each other

 

Which millet rings? The ones that come with the scope? If they are the lrs-1 tacticool
rings there is no adjustment for windage error with the rings. Flip them around and see
if you are off the other direction. If not it's the rail or your holes in the reciever that are
off. Provided the scope is good. You have some trouble shooting to do.
First swap the rings around backwards, leave the scope settings alone. If nothing changes it's not the rings. ( you can just bore site if it's off more than a couple of feet to check this, no trip to the range needed)

next Center the windage dial on the scope and try it on a different gun. If it's close
Your base or reciever is off.

 

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f18/problems-after-egw-20-moa-rail-84864/

A timely thread for you.

 

My coment is first off, what is a custom lapping bar? I use centerless ground drill rod in the appropriate diameter. 30mm, 1" or 32mm which ever is applicable.

Centerless ground drill rod is fairly cheap and usually comes in 3 foot lengths so you wind up with plenty of lapping bars. Last time I bought a stick I believe it was 25 bucks and unlike mild steel rounds, the OD is precision, usually parallel within 0.001 and diamterically 0.001 plus it's hardenable (air or oil casehardening).

MSC sells it, Enco sells it, Alro sells it, Contractors Steel sells it.

Anyone who pays for a 'custom lapping bar' is not informed. No offense, it's just so much cheaper to be informed. Likewise with lapping compound. Midway sells it in nice convenient tubes but so does MSC and Enco, is nice tin cans ir more than you'll ever need.

I'd line up the rings by fitting the rings loosely on the rail, then slipping the bar through both rings and then toequing the rings to the bar itself and then rotquing the rail mount fasteners, in that order. The I'd loosen the tube mounts, pull the bar, apply dykem blur (or red) to the inner diameters of the rings, slide the bar back in snug the rings and rotate the bar. The loosen the tube mounts and pull the bar and note how the Dykem was removed by the bar. That will rell you if the rings are in alignment and it there are high spots.

If the rings are true and the Dykem is rubbed off evenly, I'd be looking at the rail, the receiver/rail mounting holes or the rail to receiver torque.

If I misspelled some words, excuse me, I'm a temporary gimp. Tipped a tendon in my haqnd....

 

Dial in on the clock, look at where turrets are, then adjust to top, and windage and see what you have left, this will give you a good idea. If you are already near top, for instance, then more moa base, etc. for windage

 

as a matter of fact i just went threw my scope rings with my home made lapping tool,a piece of drop from our lathe,or mentioned earlier a piece of drill rod,drilled and tapped a hole in it about half way down and kabam! a lapping tool, stopped at autozone got a tube of valve lapping cream for a few bucks. i mounted my rings on my lapping tool first then set the whole schbang on the base and tightened it up, take the caps off, add a little cream, put the caps back on, tighten untill you can just bearly move it then give it a good "hand job" back and forth with a little twisty action. when it free's up adjust the screws a tick and jack it again, then when your done,wipe up your cream and roll over and go to sleep! really it isnt very hard, and if your rings are off very much it will show up really quick.

 

just make sure that your idea and his idea of "precise" are the same, i mean his might be+/- .002 from end to end, yours might be +/-.0002. good luck