Scope mounting
- Thread starter john171
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JohnyRingo
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- Jan 20, 2017
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What's wrong with using ultralight Talley rings that mount right to the action?
For some reason they like to loosen up from what I have seen, and read of others. Even if loctited, and torqued.
Huntnful
Well-Known Member
I've personally seen 2 different sets crack at the scope ring screw mounting holes. I used think they were awesome and had them on every rifle. I've since learned that if you want a rugged back country rifle, scope rings are not the area to go "ultralight". You'll appreciate a good set of machined rings after handling the talleys.
JohnyRingo
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- Jan 20, 2017
- Messages
- 159
I have kicked around the idea of going with a rail and some machined rings. My concern, and also the concerns of others in this thread, is how to keep the scope low on the rifle then. Can you keep the scope close to the barrel with a rail and machined rings? This would be a good time for me to switch setups because I have my backcountry rifle in the shop getting a new barrel.
cmarti063
Well-Known Member
Mines in the shop too. Blueprinting action, bolt work, new Proof CF barrel, new stock, etc etc.
Smith told my to ditch my DNZ 1-piece mount and to get a rail and rings. I'm with you - now's the best time for me to switch setups.
Right now I'm just trying to figure out if I need a steel base or aluminum.
I have never had a problem being able to get my scope as low as I wanted with this set up. On one of my rifles, the the 56mm obj is very close to touching with 1.0" scope ring height.
I have been using Nightforce aluminum rails with vortex/seekins rings on my 338 Edge, 300 RUM, 300 PRC, 6.5 PRC. Zero issues
cmarti063
Well-Known Member
Good deal. He just texted me and said he liked 7075 aluminum for the rails. He mentioned both Nightforce and Warne. Sounds like y'all are on the same page!
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
I would go 1 piece, bedded and if your new rifle has 8-32 screws even better.
Assuming your rifle has a brake. If not, that 300WM recoil is going to put your mounting system thru the test. That recoil pulse and a heavy scope and rings is a pretty heavy whack on 4 screws holding the rail down. Pay attention to this setup.
Assuming your rifle has a brake. If not, that 300WM recoil is going to put your mounting system thru the test. That recoil pulse and a heavy scope and rings is a pretty heavy whack on 4 screws holding the rail down. Pay attention to this setup.
Ok guys I have a follow up question. I went with the Talley CA one piece picatinny. I was fully ready to bed the rail but after receiving it and examining the fit, I see no need to bed it. What an amazing fit! Also when I checked the overall straitness/flatness insanely flat. So here's me question. I torqued the screws down at 25in/lbs as advised by Talley with a little lock tight. But man that seems light. Should I use a high strength adhesive on the rail/receiver contact to help reduce stress and avoid any possible movement of the rail?Thanks again for your advise. I saw a you tube video and he used Delta 55 high strength adhesive.
Last edited:
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
I used Acraglas from Brownells at the time. It's epoxy, 2 part, and even bedded a shim for my needs. I don't know about an adhesive. It may need to removed from the action at some point for gunsmith work, so release agent on the action should be used. If done right it is a low stress trick that should serve you well.
