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Scope base for ELR... How many moa do YOU use?

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So, after typing all of this out, I felt the need to come back and put a disclaimer up here, this gets kinda in depth, but try to follow me if you will. Or just post your setup. At least I'll have something to compare to. My thinking/math may be way off here... lol

Building a 338 Edge for ELR, and I'm trying to figure out how much base to put on it. I'm probably going with Ken Farrell, and I'm debating on sticking with a 40moa base, or going with something more.

The scope I'm going to run has right around 100-105 MOA (right around 31.5-32 mil) of total adjustment. I have one on another rifle I own with a 0 moa base, and I have 13.x mil down from my 100 yd zero.

13mil=43.88moa

So with that in mind, seems like a 40moa base would theoretically still let me zero at 100yds and have almost all of my travel up.

My other option is to maybe go with a 50 or 60 moa base, and then zero out a little further if I need to, say 300 yds or so. My reticle has 5mils over center, so I could theoretically use that for shorter shots/100 yd shooting if needed.

According to a ballpark I plugged into Shooter for the bullet setup I plan on running, it looks like 100yds would be a 3.8mil hold under from a 300 yd zero, which would work.

Assuming I get 30 of the 32 mils of scope travel, 30 mils should get me out around 2375yds, and another 9.5 mil holdover with the reticle would get me to 2700ish.

When I change my zero to a 100 yd zero from 300, it only changes that last number to about 2670yds, so realistically, zeroing out further doesn't do you a lot of good unless you're gonna go WAY out with it. This makes me think I'd be fine with a 40moa base. Only reason to go more would be to be absolutely sure I get to use all of my elevation up...

Thanks for taking the time to read all of this... thanks in advance for your opinions/experiences
 
I do all my zeroing at 100 yards. I run 20MOA in the base and use in almost all cases burris signature zee rings with the inserts anymore. I set it up with the full extra 20MOA in it (+10/-10) so I have approx 40MOA sometimes I have to take some out of the scope as the scope bottoms out and I can't zero at 100 then. In all the cases though with this kind of setup I can always get my scope to go out too 2000 yards with straight dialing.
 
That's a good point. I have them on my Creedmoor. May go with a 30 or 40 and then use more with ring inserts if I need it...
 
We put a 40 moa base on my sons 338x378 due to running out of travel at about
1200 with a 20 moa. Windage zero was an issue i encountered when setting the scope up. All the adjustment remaining was off to one side of zero. Trying a different
scope showed the same issue but with the remaining windage on the opposite side.
It didnt appear to me that Burris offered 30 mm rings but i could be wrong. I also
wasent comfortable using them on that gun anyway. EURO OPTIC offers windage
adjustable rings made by U S OPTICS. Very nice but also pricey. They solved the
problem for us and also allowed for a 100 yd zero with the low ring. This is a Vortex
6x25 scope and its (reccomended) you use 15 in. # of torque on the ring screws.
Problem is that wont hold the scope from moving and neither will 20# on those type guns. I set them at 25# and all seems well. Better scopes are better in lots of ways.
 
They have Sig Zee's in 30mm. I'm running them on my Creedmoor with a Viper PST. I also know plenty of guys running them on magnum calibers without issue, so I don't think that'll be a problem.
 
I use 20 MOA on my 1000 yard BR guns and on my hunting gun I have a 40 MOA. It depends on how far out you want to go. I can get a 1000 yard zero with a 20 minute base and 45 MOA scope. Matt
 
Interesting discussion. My .375 AM has a 40moa that Kirby put on and I zero it at 400yds after I first check that 100 yds it shoots 4.1 inches high. That gives me a zero at 400 yds. Kirby suggested even using 600 yds. The problem wih beyond 100 zero is the beginning influence of atmospherics. With this and my S&B 10-50 I can dial out to 2200yds depending on atmospherics. after that I have use reticle for adjustment. I m now getting a .338 with 60moa base and hoping to get out to maybe 3000yds without reticle hold over. So it all depends on the scope and distance you plan to g o to.
 
Interesting discussion. My .375 AM has a 40moa that Kirby put on and I zero it at 400yds after I first check that 100 yds it shoots 4.1 inches high. That gives me a zero at 400 yds. Kirby suggested even using 600 yds. The problem wih beyond 100 zero is the beginning influence of atmospherics. With this and my S&B 10-50 I can dial out to 2200yds depending on atmospherics. after that I have use reticle for adjustment. I m now getting a .338 with 60moa base and hoping to get out to maybe 3000yds without reticle hold over. So it all depends on the scope and distance you plan to g o to.

Even with a 60moa base, I think you'll be hard pressed to get to 3k without reticle holdover. Maybe I'm wrong. I would also think with a 40moa, you should be able to zero at 100 though. How much total elevation does your scope have? Are you planning to run the same one on the 338?
 
The calculations show I should make it to about 3000 with 75 moa scope and 60 base for a total need of 132 moa
 
The calculations show I should make it to about 3000 with 75 moa scope and 60 base for a total need of 132 moa

I'm not sure that's right. Assuming with a 0moa base, your zero was dead center perfect in line with the scopes mechanical zero (which it never is), you'd get half of your 75moa up, and half down. That's to 37.5moa up, plus the extra 60 under the base, gets you to 97.5moa. I think that's right anyway. lol If my logic is wrong, someone correct me.
 
They have Sig Zee's in 30mm. I'm running them on my Creedmoor with a Viper PST. I also know plenty of guys running them on magnum calibers without issue, so I don't think that'll be a problem.

I've had a problem with my Burris Signature Zee rings slipping due to recoil, on one scope but not another... on a 30-06. I ended up putting blue Loctite on the inserts when mounting.
So far so good after just a few shots.
 
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