Ruger No. 1 for long range

[Huntet87]

Is the Ruger No. 1 a capable long range platform? Aside from the obvious draw backs of being a single shot and lever action (tough to run in prone).

More wondering if the rifle can be accurate enough for long range? Seems it could present some difficulties, can the barrel even be free floated on them?

 

[HARPERC]

I'll say yes, but I've seen those that won't qualify.

Barrels can be upgraded if need be, scope mounts can be improved, there are a couple of after market synthetic or laminate stocks.

The fore end can be a weak link, but can be made to work.

Add good ammo, and good things happen.

 

[elkaholic]

Is the Ruger No. 1 a capable long range platform? Aside from the obvious draw backs of being a single shot and lever action (tough to run in prone).

More wondering if the rifle can be accurate enough for long range? Seems it could present some difficulties, can the barrel even be free floated on them?

Yes, it can be made to work, and work well. I built one a few years back and chambered it in 300 Ultra. Here is what you do. It is important to bed the tang on the Ruger as that is what it recoils against. You can either glass it around the tang area, or better yet, drill out the screw area and put in an aluminum pillar just like you would in a bolt action. After you do that, use a long extension on your ratchet and tighten it until it squeaks!! Take some measurements and see what taper you need to fit in the fore end and have Bartlein cut a custom taper. Another option is to order a std. taper and cut the fore end out to match. I think I used a 30" #7 on mine. I killed a few elk with it at 1000 yards and it shot very accurately. It makes a nice compact package because you save almost 4" of length over a bolt action with the same length barrel. Good luck ....Rich

 

[Huntet87]

Thank you both for the input. Sounds like a fun project as I really find this rifles attractive hopefully I can take it on one day.

 

[HARPERC]

The fore end screw can pull through also. Ruger used to make a replacement, that had a little more surface area on the head, so I'm guessing mine wasn't the only one that pulled through the wood.

Oregunsmithing in Pendleton makes a synthetic if that's your taste. The ad claims to use pillars in the fore end as well. Never used them, just the things you'll run across if your looking.

MPI makes a couple of versions, I'm trying to cut a bit of weight, and for me the light sporter 1A is my intent with the rifle.

There is also available is a device called the "Hicks Harmonizer" theory being free float the fore end, and dial a little pressure looking for a sweet spot.

Do you currently have one, or just starting to look?

 

[benchracer]

I have a 1A in 7x57, among the last of them produced before Ruger made them into a limited production item. It needed the forearm floated and bedded to the hanger. After that, it shoots around 3/4" @ 100 with my handloads, using RL-22 and either 160 NPT's or Berger 168 Classic Hunters. It is my favorite carry rifle, but my intended use is for hunting out to 400 yards or so. I don't have it set up for long range.

For the expense involved, you can build a really nice long range rig. If you just HAVE to have a #1 for your long range rig, are willing to spend the money, and willing to take the chance that the rifle may not meet your expectations, by all means, go for it.

I personally love the 1A Light Sporter and that is my reason for owning a #1. For a dedicated long range rig, a 1V might be a better place to start. The scope mount setup on the 1V has some advantages over the rest of the #1's. A 1B might also be a good option to start with.

One nice thing about the #1's is that you don't have to worry about trying to fit a cartridge in a magazine or worry about whether or not it will feed. That leaves you free to set the chamber up for whatever OAL will give you max performance from the combo you have in mind and to choose whatever shoulder angle or case shape seems best to you.

One smith I am aware of that does custom work on Ruger #1's is Carolina Precision: Carolina Precision Rifles builds custom rifles in Jackson, SC

 

[HARPERC]

...............It is my favorite carry rifle, but my intended use is for hunting out to 400 yards or so. I don't have it set up for long range.
.......I personally love the 1A Light Sporter and that is my reason for owning a #1. For a dedicated long range rig, a 1V might be a better place to start. The scope mount setup on the 1V has some advantages over the rest of the #1's. A 1B might also be a good option to start with.
...... One nice thing about the #1's is that you don't have to worry about trying to fit a cartridge in a magazine or worry about whether or not it will feed. That leaves you free to set the chamber up for whatever OAL will give you max performance from the combo you have in mind and to choose whatever shoulder angle or case shape seems best to you................[/url]

#1A's are like puppies to me, I just can't not pick them up, and scheme about how to get it home.

I will say there are better fore ends for bench testing.

I'm using the EABCO rail that slips over the rib, and just use the new screws to install.
I know of one on a .416 Rigby that's held well so far.

Mine's 30-06, bought it for a donor, initial testing looked like re barrel was absolutely in the cards. I tried one more bullet as a young fellow needs a rifle to hunt this year, and got completely blown away. I was planning a 7x65R, as I really like rims on my single shots.

If it shoots that well again this afternoon, I have a tough choice to make.

 

[benchracer]

I'm using the EABCO rail that slips over the rib, and just use the new screws to install.
I know of one on a .416 Rigby that's held well so far.

I believe the .416 Rigby you are talking about belongs to Tikkamike. I was in on the discussion of scope mounts for that rifle.

What I am referring to relative to the #1V is that it dispenses with the quarter rib and places the scope mounts directly on the barrel. For a couple of reasons, the quarter rib is believed to be a source of accuracy problems in the #1's. I have never encountered those issues during the type of shooting I do with my #1, but I believe it noteworthy that Ruger went with a different setup on a model intended for more precision and higher volume shooting. For that reason, I believe it to be advisable to go with the #1V type setup for a long range rig, where the emphasis is on precision.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I own a ruger #1 in 338win... The only critter I have killed with the rifle was just over 550 yards out. I killed the mule deer with a 225 hornady sp pushed with rl19 out of the rifle.

Moa on crappy days and 1/2 moa on a good day is the norm for this rifle. She bucks like a mule (regular hard pad) and hits hard on the other end too... The rifle shoots 250 sierra and 225 nos ab fine too, but do not ask it to shoot 285-300 grain bullets. I could not get accuracy with those until I was over pressure badly...

It can be very rewarding to have a good long range single shot; do not expect it to be as easy as a bolt gun to get shooting well though.

 

[HARPERC]

I believe the .416 Rigby you are talking about belongs to Tikkamike. I was in on the discussion of scope mounts for that rifle.

What I am referring to relative to the #1V is that it dispenses with the quarter rib and places the scope mounts directly on the barrel. For a couple of reasons, the quarter rib is believed to be a source of accuracy problems in the #1's. I have never encountered those issues during the type of shooting I do with my #1, but I believe it noteworthy that Ruger went with a different setup on a model intended for more precision and higher volume shooting. For that reason, I believe it to be advisable to go with the #1V type setup for a long range rig, where the emphasis is on precision.

Correct all the way through! The few quarter ribs I've used have been sturdier than what one hears. While I'm generally content with the quarter rib, if I re barreled, it would go. Especially if I was placing a big scope like the ATACR, using an intense cartridge, and then adding brake.

Last time I spoke with Mike he, was using a smaller scope also. I see more issues with the Ruger style rings themselves than the rib.

My current project started with a hunt for an in-expensive donor. Part of the process was evaluating what if anything can be done with the basic system before trashing all but the action, and finding out maybe it was more than adequate without a bigger investment.

So yes if I pulled a barrel the quarter rib would not go back. If I was hoping to use it basically stock the 1V would be preferred. A .300 magnum, stainless, laminated stock, 1V, (if such a variation is available) would be the place to start. For me any way.

Thanks
Carl

 

[benchracer]

I own a ruger #1 in 338win... The only critter I have killed with the rifle was just over 550 yards out. I killed the mule deer with a 225 hornady sp pushed with rl19 out of the rifle.

Moa on crappy days and 1/2 moa on a good day is the norm for this rifle. She bucks like a mule (regular hard pad) and hits hard on the other end too... The rifle shoots 250 sierra and 225 nos ab fine too, but do not ask it to shoot 285-300 grain bullets. I could not get accuracy with those until I was over pressure badly...

It can be very rewarding to have a good long range single shot; do not expect it to be as easy as a bolt gun to get shooting well though.

I love my single shot. Rewarding is a good word to describe it. It is accurate enough to reach out a ways. That's just not my purpose for owning it. It wears a Swaro 3-9x36 with a plex reticle that is just about the perfect size and weight for a #1A. It is an elegant and attractive rifle to look at and a joy to carry. It's a timeless classic.

 

[benchracer]

Correct all the way through! The few quarter ribs I've used have been sturdier than what one hears. While I'm generally content with the quarter rib, if I re barreled, it would go. Especially if I was placing a big scope like the ATACR, using an intense cartridge, and then adding brake.

Last time I spoke with Mike he, was using a smaller scope also. I see more issues with the Ruger style rings themselves than the rib.

My current project started with a hunt for an in-expensive donor. Part of the process was evaluating what if anything can be done with the basic system before trashing all but the action, and finding out maybe it was more than adequate without a bigger investment.

So yes if I pulled a barrel the quarter rib would not go back. If I was hoping to use it basically stock the 1V would be preferred. A .300 magnum, stainless, laminated stock, 1V, (if such a variation is available) would be the place to start. For me any way.

Thanks
Carl

The issues I have seen discussed, regarding the quarter rib, involve uneven material expansion (related to temperature) between the rib and the barrel, rather than strength issues. I found the "fixes" discussed to be questionable and wouldn't want to try them on my rifle. That's why I would want to go the 1V style route if I wanted a #1 for long range purposes.

My #1A is not a hard kicker. It wears a compact, light scope in keeping with the purpose of a Light Sporter, and I don't shoot long strings with it. I have had no problems with the quarter rib or the scope mounting system and have confidence in both for the way my rifle is used.

 

[Gene]

The stock Ruger #1 in factory condition is not a good option for long range shooting. My 1V in .25-06 has been accurized by a good smith to float the fore end, and I have installed a Moyers trigger (no longer available). Still, I cannot get groups under an inch at 100 yds. with good handloads.

Until recently, Ruger barrels were a ***, but they have improved.

Even after being accurized, the position of your hand on the fore end when you shoot is critical.
Its a fun gun so shoot. But I would limit its big game accuracy to 300 yds.

 

[Greyfox]

The viability of the Ruger #1 as a long range rifle really depends on what you define as long range. Out to 500-600 yards on medium to large game, it can work. For shooting game out to 1000 yards, I think the design is lacking. While I have seen them shoot better under controlled conditions and special attention to the bedding, my experience is that it's at best, a 1 MOA rifle. For LR hunting beyond 600 yards in conditions where temperatures vary, there is the potential for rough handling, and the strick requirement for cold bore, first shot precision, it would not be my choice. IMO.