Reloading Issues 7mm RM

[lerrooy]

Hey, hoping some of you reloading gurus can help me out. Just started reloading start of this month and having issues. Using factory federal ammo at 200 yards last year I'd usually get a 2" group with a flyer. I want to eliminate that. So now I'm reloading, I've gone out twice. Started with loading 10 nosler 140gr accubonds at 50 grains of powder as per starting in the manual.*
100 yards and 200 yards was iffy. Little bit all over the place. No pics for that. Went home. Cleaned my rifle. And free floated the barrel. New timney trigger
Back to the range tonight. 5 rounds at 200 with factory ammo just to get her dirty again after cleaning.*
My first 3 round group was with the 50 grains of powder at 200 yards. One flyer which seems weird.*
I proceeded to go with my ladder test for this as well. Ranging from 50.5 grains of powder to 54 grains at half grain increments. That's my second picture.*

To be honest I sure don't know what's going on and what to do from here. Any suggestions and help would be great.*

Using 140 grain Nosler Accubonds. Federal 215 primers. IMR 4895. Overall cartridge length is 3.29" Shooting at 200 yards. That and up to 300 is my intended hunting bracket. Maybe further once I get more figured out.*
Thank you

 

[AZShooter]

First the rifle has to be sound. I keep a list in my documents which I'll post later.

Seeing it has not shot factory or handloads very well you should go through the rifle first.

Second IMO you chose a powder that is too fast for the 7 Rem mag. IMR's website doesn't even show it. I did find mention of it on the net but it wouldn't be a choice for me. RL-22, H4831 or IMR 7828 would be better choices. There are many other slow powders. I usually go for the fastest velocities listed in the loading books as my first choice for a powder.


As for loading increments of 1/2 grain to begin finding your load will make the process slower than necessary. Go with 1 grain load increments to see a trend.

Once you find the best shooting load then you can begin to tweak it by bracketing the powder charge with smaller increments and change the seating depth if necessary.

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my check list for a new rifle:

epoxy bed the rifle

Check front action screw hole for epoxy in bottom which would prevent proper stock tightening

Action screw bottoming out in blind hole

Leupold windage style base windage side screws not tight

Ruger rings not properly placed in integral bases

Forward screw of front base touching threads of barrel shank

Poor crown, optimal way is to check with bore scope

Action screw holes in stock too small, drill larger so sides of action screw won't touch

Bolt handle touching stock

Mag box must not bind

Recoil lug making early contact in bottom of bedding (rocking action)

Trigger group must not touch stock

Trigger guard must not touch trigger

Uneven bedding--- tightening one action screw to see if the action pulls up at other end.

Action screws properly torqued

Barrel having adequate clearance where it is supposed to be floated

Clean bore

I am sure others will add to suggestions to help you get your rifle shooting

 

[g0rd0]

I have a savage 111 in 7mmrm. This is what works for me
150 grn sp, cci mag primer 67.0 grn IMR7828 Neck sized.
150 grn sp , win std primer 47.5grn IMR3031 Neck sized. (this powder is not really a good choice for 7rm but it is good for varmants) (it also heats up the barrel A LOT) so I prefere to use the IMR7828
175 grn sp win std primer 60.0 grn RL22 FL sized
And for deer 150 grn etip 67.0 grn IMR7828 cci mag primer FL sized, also good for moose.
A few notes
1. these are my loads, use at your own risk, if you use these always confirm, reduce by 10% and work up
2. I never crimp
3. I seat my bullets 10 thou off of the lands

rule of thumb for large case capacity rounds slow powder and hot primer

 

[jpd676]

I agree with the above that your rifle needs to be gone through to make sure it is sound. I don't know what kind of scope or mounts you have but that could be a problem. I had a scope with bad eye relief and I had a flyer about every three shots. I just wasn't getting behind the scope the same every time. I would also try a new powder, Retumbo and Re-22 have worked well in my 7mm.

 

[lerrooy]

Hey thanks for the reply's so far.
Looks like ill have to find a different kind of "slow burning" powder that's available here in town.

As far as checking my rifle, it isn't bedded, don't know how much of a problem that is.... the rest checks out. Does anyone recommend using blue lock-tight on all screws? such as the action screws, scope base, mount, and rings?
Ive never used an actual torque wrench for all the screws on my gun, would that be recommended, and is there set weights for each screw?

One more final question, I was going to use the 140 grain for deer, would there not be a reason to go with a 175 grain instead for deer, elk and moose?

 

[ksubuck]

I don't locktite action screws, just scope and base screws.

No bedding likely means your rifle isn't as accurate as it could be.

140s are fine for deer, pay attention to muzzle velocities and bullet construction though. 140s cooking over 3000fps can come apart on close range shots. I use 150s to 160s for deer. Have used my 175 elk load on deer and saw too much penetration and not enough energy transfer, but the deer still died in a few more steps than normal with the lighter loads.

 

[mountainman56]

I would recommend pillar bedding. This is the only way to find out the true capability of your rifle. While 140 grain bullets are certainly ample for deer it could be your rifle plain don't like them. I would experiment with some heavier bullets as well.

Here is a link to one of the best instructions for pillar bedding I have seen.

Stress-Free Pillar Bedding

 

[Buttermilk]

As others have mentioned, powder choice isn't the best for a 7RM.

H4831, RL22, IMR7828, H1000 are powders that have burn rates more suitable to the 7RM.

 

[sendero72]

Try something simple as switching to a Fed 210 primer. I think you will see your group tighten up quickly.

 

[lerrooy]

Im curious as to why i would use a large rifle primer over the magnum ones i have chosen. Magnum primers are meant for the magnums no?

Is it a faster burn rate or slower in comparison to the magnums?

I managed to find some Retumbo this weekend which I wouldnt mind checking out with my 140 grain.. I will probably upgrade to 160 grain bullet instead..

Slower powder, Heavier bullet..... better results?

 

[Buttermilk]

Nothing wrong with using magnum primers in a magnum cartridge.

I have however used non-magnum primers in a 7mm RM and saw groups tighten up.

One word of caution is don't work up a load using non-magnum primers then switch to magnum without first dropping the charge and working back up checking for pressure.

Some powders aren't hard to ignite and don't necessarily need a magnum primer even in a 'magnum' case.