Older Remington 700 trigger

I have a 1965 BDL in .270 Win. For the longest time I had no problems with the trigger other than sloppy break. Last year at the range I could not close the bolt without the firing pin dropping. I was lucky the first time as the round did not fire. I checked it several more times ( without a round in the chamber) and the pin always dropped. I have never adjusted the trigger, nothing unusual happened that day, it just stopped working. I have since replaced it with a Timney and have never looked back.
 
i have recently acquired a 1984 BDL LH. Is it worth it to take the rifle to a smith to have a trigger job done or should I just replace it? I put a Timney on my .30-06 (newer production) and I love it. I have heard the older triggers are decent.
Yes, the old Walker triggers are good. And if tuned professionally, can be just as good as most aftermarket triggers. It might not drop as light as some, but it will certainly be as crisp, and with no creep. I have lots of them on rifles, that I tuned myself. I wouldn't attempt doing trigger work unless you have lots of experience in it.
 
i have recently acquired a 1984 BDL LH. Is it worth it to take the rifle to a smith to have a trigger job done or should I just replace it? I put a Timney on my .30-06 (newer production) and I love it. I have heard the older triggers are decent.
The 700 has a good trigger try adjusting it first
 
OF these brands of triggers (Trigger basix, Jard, Trigger Tech, Jewell, Geisselle, Shilen, and Huber Concepts) are these ordered in terms of price or preference ? They obviously are recommended by you so which is cheapest and easiest/cheapest to install?

I bought my 1970's Rem 700 used about 15 years ago and it feels like a decently heavy 4 lbs-ish trigger .… I hate to spend money on a trigger system I don't need. This trigger to me is better than on any other rifle I own.

What would be some good tests before each hunt to check the trigger mechanism ? How bout cycling all the ammo out of the magazine several times as fast as I can? Also maybe it would be a good idea to spray an aerosol lubricant into the trigger area before each exercise. Which lubricant ?

Have any of the malfunctions been as a result of shock to the rifle such as when jolting the stock on the ground or dropping the rifle etc ? Maybe I can test that too ?
 
Anyone that "trusts" a trigger and gets hurt or hurts someone else is 100% liable for said accident. It is never ever okay to point a firearm at anything you care about. To trust a trigger means you are okay to point that firearm at your own head and work the action with live ammo. Maybe if more people did just that the accidental discharge rate would remedy itself. All triggers are susceptible to wear, getting out of adjustment or dirt and dried oil buildup that decreases the sear engagement.

I have lost count how many times I have seen people sweep others with the muzzle or heard stories of using their rifle scope as a spotting scope to watch others stating, "It's okay, the safety is on." When I took my concealed class I was shocked how many people either had a firearm accident or had first hand knowledge involving a personal friend or family member. Every one of them involved breaking all 3 rules of gun safety. If people would just observe the first rule, no one would have been hurt.

Rules of gun safety that should be engraved into everyone's mind when they are going to be handling guns in the order of importance:
ALWAYS keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.
ALWAYS keep your finger off the trigger until ready to shoot.
ALWAYS keep the gun unloaded until ready to use.

Concealed carry or walking point in a war or dangerous game hunt is using your gun. The first two rules still apply.

Also note that the term "safety switch" is not ever a component of gun safety. They are the cause of more accidents than they prevent. Most guns you have to remember to switch it on and it is as prone to failure as any other moving part in a firearm.
 
I have owned numerous Remington 700 rifles. I currently own 5 of them. I have adjusted the trigger pull on all of them down to around 3.5 lbs. I haven't adjusted the sear, because I have found it to be fine from the factory. I have never had an accidental discharge due to the Remington trigger, either the old factory trigger or the new XMark Pro. I've been able to adjust them to a good hunting trigger pull, while keeping them heavy enough to be safe while carrying and handling them. I have also adjusted the over-travel on a couple of them. Both adjustments are fairly easy and safely made. It increased accuracy by about 25 or 30 percent, too. But if you're worried, get a gunsmith to work the trigger.
 
OF these brands of triggers (Trigger basix, Jard, Trigger Tech, Jewell, Geisselle, Shilen, and Huber Concepts) are these ordered in terms of price or preference ? They obviously are recommended by you so which is cheapest and easiest/cheapest to install?

I bought my 1970's Rem 700 used about 15 years ago and it feels like a decently heavy 4 lbs-ish trigger .… I hate to spend money on a trigger system I don't need. This trigger to me is better than on any other rifle I own.

What would be some good tests before each hunt to check the trigger mechanism ? How bout cycling all the ammo out of the magazine several times as fast as I can? Also maybe it would be a good idea to spray an aerosol lubricant into the trigger area before each exercise. Which lubricant ?

Have any of the malfunctions been as a result of shock to the rifle such as when jolting the stock on the ground or dropping the rifle etc ? Maybe I can test that too ?
Get a bottle of air like you use for computer keyboards. Spray out the action and remove any old debris. Then use a tiny amount of Rem Oil and spray the excess out. That should both clean and lube it without leaving excess oil to attract dirt. If you know a good gunsmith, you might have him disassemble the action and check for wear. He could also replace any marginal parts. As to sear engagement, close the bolt on an empty chamber, and do a drop test. Do it with the safety engaged and with it disengaged. Drop the rifle on its butt several times from about 3 or 3.5 feet. See if it fires when the safety is taken off. Do this several times. Then do the drop test with the rifle cocked and the safety off. If the sear isn't jarred loose, the trigger and safety are working properly. This test should be conducted if you adjust the trigger pull, too. If the fireing pin isn't released by the impact of the rifle it won't be accidentally released by normal use.
 
When the old 700 trigger is PROPERLY adjusted I have never seen any problems with them. You usually can't get below 2 lbs safely with them but my preference is 2 1/2" lbs. I have three at this time with the old trigger. Only problem I ever had was the same as was mentioned earlier. I had one trigger that I had adjusted to 30 oz in the summer time on a 25-06 for groundhog shooting. I had to go a hair below proper sear engagement to get there. I took the same rifle on a deer hunt in late November when the tempters were in the high 20's that morning. Rifle would not cock. Adjusted trigger up to 2 1/2 lbs with a minimum of ten thousands sear engagement and have never had any problem in over 20 years with it again. One big danger I have seen over the years is rifles in hunting situations with TOO LIGHT of a trigger. If you can't feel your finger on the trigger before it trips it is too light for hunting for me. I have been around people that have had premature fires with light triggers and have either missed which was a blessing, or have the worst happen, put a bad shot and either loose the game or have a loooooog track.

Yes, the older Rem 700 triggers do work well if cared for (IMO).

I inherited a Rem 700 30-06 circa 1962, bought a used Rem 700 .243 circa 1967 and bought (then new) a Rem 700 7mm Mag circa 1979. I did have the safety replaced by Remington (safety recall) on all of them and then when I got back into rifle shooting in 2009 I had a qualified gunsmith clean/inspect all the triggers and adjust trigger pulls to my taste.

To date I have not had any problems although the one with a 2-1/2 lb pull requires me to maintain constant gun safety awareness.

After floating the barrels and glass bedding the actions, they all shoot 1 MOA or better with handloads. Since I hunt under 400 yards they do the job I want.
 
Anyone that "trusts" a trigger and gets hurt or hurts someone else is 100% liable for said accident. It is never ever okay to point a firearm at anything you care about. To trust a trigger means you are okay to point that firearm at your own head and work the action with live ammo. Maybe if more people did just that the accidental discharge rate would remedy itself. All triggers are susceptible to wear, getting out of adjustment or dirt and dried oil buildup that decreases the sear engagement.

I have lost count how many times I have seen people sweep others with the muzzle or heard stories of using their rifle scope as a spotting scope to watch others stating, "It's okay, the safety is on." When I took my concealed class I was shocked how many people either had a firearm accident or had first hand knowledge involving a personal friend or family member. Every one of them involved breaking all 3 rules of gun safety. If people would just observe the first rule, no one would have been hurt.

Rules of gun safety that should be engraved into everyone's mind when they are going to be handling guns in the order of importance:
ALWAYS keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.
ALWAYS keep your finger off the trigger until ready to shoot.
ALWAYS keep the gun unloaded until ready to use.

Concealed carry or walking point in a war or dangerous game hunt is using your gun. The first two rules still apply.

Also note that the term "safety switch" is not ever a component of gun safety. They are the cause of more accidents than they prevent. Most guns you have to remember to switch it on and it is as prone to failure as any other moving part in a firearm.

The OP's question has nothing to do with your rant... lol
 
DSCF1327.JPG
 
I've seen too many Remington/Walker triggers that look like the one in my post above. Lube that has turned to varnish over the years. Internal parts sticking and won't move freely. Make no mistake, the internals of a trigger must move freely! The trigger assembly should require NO lube. Clean and dry. Clean with lighter fluid and blow-out with compressed air (If you don't have an air compressor, used 'canned' air like you use to clean a key board). I won't adjust one, just too much liability involved. Look at all Remington has gone through over these triggers. The trigger, where you put your finger, rattles like 2 peas in a tin can. Several of my personal custom rifles are built on Remington 700 actions, and not 1 of them has a Rem/Walker trigger. It is literally a *** compared to the well made aftermarket offerings of today. Most triggers that come on factory rifles are (a ***). There are exceptions.
 
Yes, the old Walker triggers are good. And if tuned professionally, can be just as good as most aftermarket triggers. It might not drop as light as some, but it will certainly be as crisp, and with no creep. I have lots of them on rifles, that I tuned myself. I wouldn't attempt doing trigger work unless you have lots of experience in it.
I wonder a lot about these complaints about walker triggers. I agree with mudrunner on this. I have used remingtons for over 40 years with no problems
 
Last edited:
I wonder a lot about these complaints about walker triggers. I agree with mudrunner on this. I have used remingtons for over 40 years with no problems
Good for you! I am no spring chicken myself. I won't have one on any of my rifles. Not because I think they are not safe when properly cared for, but because you will never adjust one to compare with a Shilen, which is of the same design (comparing apples to apples, here. Not apples to oranges). I won't have one because they were not manufactured to the exacting standards I desire on my custom rifles. I actually shoot long range, beyond 600yds and more. The Rem/Walker trigger just isn't up to the task! And, this IS Long Range Hunting site, isn't it?
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top