bomberodevil
Well-Known Member
Thanks, the low tension sounds like a probable issue. If so, I'll put it at 3.0 and put some blue loctite on it. Thanks.
New Savage 110 mis-firing
- Thread starter bomberodevil
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bomberodevil
Well-Known Member
This sounds like the issue. I'm baffled why the factory sent the rifle back to me with zero correspondence regarding a well known issue of misfires with the trigger at a low setting. Oh well, I ordered a Wheeler gauge and I'll check it today. Cabela's sells gauges but the manager told me that they aren't gunsmiths and I can't use one of their gauges on the shelf to measure it. So I bought one from another vendor!
I was the range with a friend of mine who owns a Savage. He asked me if I would shoot it to help confirm his ballistics. I attempted to several times. It misfired almost half the time. It never misfired when he shot it. I found that if i treated it like a two stage trigger, it would misfire. I would take up the slack on the trigger until my finger was flush with it. Then I would increase the pressure until the sear tripped and it would misfire. The firing pin tripped but the primer was not hit. I found that if I would keep constant pressure on the trigger and not hesitate then the misfiring were lessened. Bear in mind that the rifle never misfired when my friend fired his rifle. Looking back with that limited experience with his rifle, I will never own a rifle with Savage's Accutrigger. Give me the Remington trigger. never had a misfire or accidental discharge with it and I have several and used them over 55 years.
I have seen this issue. The light trigger pull as been discussed. The other issue I have experience causing misfiring with the trigger may be the rear bedding screw being too tight. This will result in the stock inletting interfering with the trigger mechanism. To check this, try dry firing the rifle while out of the stock. The rest bedding screw should be set at no more then 25#. The forward screw at 40#.
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
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Is this what is discussed during glass bedding of Savages? I've seen where they notch a rear pillar to provide clearance for I think is a rear trigger nut or screw. TIA.
VLD Pilot
Well-Known Member
May be a dumb question but are you loading with standard 280 Remington ammo (not AI formed brass) ? I had the same problem using standard brass in an Ackley chamber. I had to load bullets into the rifling so the cartridge was tight in the chamber with no movement. That made all the difference. Then the cartridge would fire reliably when reloaded.Hi all, I'm new to Savage but have been using hunting rifles for several decades. I bought a 110 Ultralight in 280 AI, with the intent of being the grandkids deer/elk rifle in a couple years. I've also been reloading since the 80's, and I've never had a mis-fire with a handload cartridge. I got the rifle in December, located some Nosler brass in January, and hand loaded about 30 rounds for barrel break in. I went to the range, and the rifle wouldn't fire. The firing pin would advance inside the bolt, but no strike on the primer, not even a scratch.
I sent the rifle in to Savage through Cabela's, and 5-6 weeks later, I got the rifle back from Savage. I had called them a couple of times, and was once told the rifle was done and they had replaced the firing pin and spring. I took it back out to do break in again this morning, and the rifle malfunctioned again.
The issue is, I'll load a single round in the magazine, load the magazine into the rifle, and chamber the round. The safety seems to work in all three positions. When the rifle is on fire, sometimes the firing pin will advance with a trigger pull, and sometimes the trigger won't pull at all. The times it won't pull at all, you can see the firing pin has not been cocked to the rear in the bolt. Bottom line, the firing pin strikes the primer maybe after 10-15 bolt cocking and trigger pulls. Very dangerous to not know when the rifle will fire.
When the rifle does fire, the primer strike is a deep strike. I had a friend who works for Dillon Precision look at the primers after strike, and said they look like they are seated correctly.
I just dropped the rifle off at Cabela's for its second trip to the factory. I guess my questions are, being new to Savage, is there some quirk to the 110 that I'm not understanding? The video is about 4:00 minutes, but it shows the issue pretty clearly. Thanks for your time with this.
edit- I tried to post a video, I don't know how to. If someone wants to see the video, let me know and I can email or text it to you.
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Why I no longer own anything made by savage, and yes I owned about a half dozen over the years. Each had a issue that needed to be sent back to the factory to get fixed except for one. Family friend bought it when I'd had enough of savage. All Others found a new home.
VLD Pilot
Well-Known Member
Goes to show how everyone's luck or experience vary's with rifles. I've owned numerous savage rifles. Not one with an issue. I don't shoot them much today as stocks and triggers aren't as abundant as the Remington foot print aftermarkets. They were very trustworthy and reliable rifles for me for years both factory and semi custom using only the actions.
I had a similar problem with my BA Stealth in 338LM. It would pull the same stunt after a few rounds, requiring a simile bolt lift to recock then it would fire. Got tired of the problem so I replaced the Accu-trigger. Never really got the feel for them. Since I shoot mainly targets, I want a lite trigger pull. Wound up doing the same for another caliber. Now I just plan on replacing the factory triggers.
VLD Pilot
Well-Known Member
Don't think I own any Accu-triggers. All my rifles were pre Accu- trigger.
I have had this problem on 3 rifles now and on all 3 the trigger was set too light. If you cock the rifle and slowly and gently close the bolt then it would fire fine. If you push the bolt forward too fast and hard it will fire but the gun will not go off because the small secondary accutrigger is not pressed. Then when you pull the trigger you hear a click but nothing happens.Hi all, I'm new to Savage but have been using hunting rifles for several decades. I bought a 110 Ultralight in 280 AI, with the intent of being the grandkids deer/elk rifle in a couple years. I've also been reloading since the 80's, and I've never had a mis-fire with a handload cartridge. I got the rifle in December, located some Nosler brass in January, and hand loaded about 30 rounds for barrel break in. I went to the range, and the rifle wouldn't fire. The firing pin would advance inside the bolt, but no strike on the primer, not even a scratch.
I sent the rifle in to Savage through Cabela's, and 5-6 weeks later, I got the rifle back from Savage. I had called them a couple of times, and was once told the rifle was done and they had replaced the firing pin and spring. I took it back out to do break in again this morning, and the rifle malfunctioned again.
The issue is, I'll load a single round in the magazine, load the magazine into the rifle, and chamber the round. The safety seems to work in all three positions. When the rifle is on fire, sometimes the firing pin will advance with a trigger pull, and sometimes the trigger won't pull at all. The times it won't pull at all, you can see the firing pin has not been cocked to the rear in the bolt. Bottom line, the firing pin strikes the primer maybe after 10-15 bolt cocking and trigger pulls. Very dangerous to not know when the rifle will fire.
When the rifle does fire, the primer strike is a deep strike. I had a friend who works for Dillon Precision look at the primers after strike, and said they look like they are seated correctly.
I just dropped the rifle off at Cabela's for its second trip to the factory. I guess my questions are, being new to Savage, is there some quirk to the 110 that I'm not understanding? The video is about 4:00 minutes, but it shows the issue pretty clearly. Thanks for your time with this.
edit- I tried to post a video, I don't know how to. If someone wants to see the video, let me know and I can email or text it to you.
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My BA Stealth trigger resets on on lift. The accu-trigger sucked. I like a trigger set light, but they don't wanna be. At first it forced me to just always press straight back, and I was ok with the forced discipline, until that day I had everything perfect the wind settled, I had the call and a perfect press... nothing. But when it happens you can feel it slip off. It just got worse and worse. Changed it after that incident. Went to Rifle Basix, love it. That was pretty much all there was back then. Now there are Timney, and Elf. There maybe more .Hi all, I'm new to Savage but have been using hunting rifles for several decades. I bought a 110 Ultralight in 280 AI, with the intent of being the grandkids deer/elk rifle in a couple years. I've also been reloading since the 80's, and I've never had a mis-fire with a handload cartridge. I got the rifle in December, located some Nosler brass in January, and hand loaded about 30 rounds for barrel break in. I went to the range, and the rifle wouldn't fire. The firing pin would advance inside the bolt, but no strike on the primer, not even a scratch.
I sent the rifle in to Savage through Cabela's, and 5-6 weeks later, I got the rifle back from Savage. I had called them a couple of times, and was once told the rifle was done and they had replaced the firing pin and spring. I took it back out to do break in again this morning, and the rifle malfunctioned again.
The issue is, I'll load a single round in the magazine, load the magazine into the rifle, and chamber the round. The safety seems to work in all three positions. When the rifle is on fire, sometimes the firing pin will advance with a trigger pull, and sometimes the trigger won't pull at all. The times it won't pull at all, you can see the firing pin has not been cocked to the rear in the bolt. Bottom line, the firing pin strikes the primer maybe after 10-15 bolt cocking and trigger pulls. Very dangerous to not know when the rifle will fire.
When the rifle does fire, the primer strike is a deep strike. I had a friend who works for Dillon Precision look at the primers after strike, and said they look like they are seated correctly.
I just dropped the rifle off at Cabela's for its second trip to the factory. I guess my questions are, being new to Savage, is there some quirk to the 110 that I'm not understanding? The video is about 4:00 minutes, but it shows the issue pretty clearly. Thanks for your time with this.
edit- I tried to post a video, I don't know how to. If someone wants to see the video, let me know and I can email or text it to you.
iCloud Photos - Apple iCloud
View, organize, and share photos and videos with iCloud Photos on the web. Changes will sync across your devices with iCloud.
Like many others here I don't own an Accu-trigger but I've shot a few and don't really care for them that much. Savage can make good guns, over the last 50 years I've owned a few off and on with great quality control, look at some of the older rifles models even those in Model 110 and the Model 112 V... CIL 950 and CIL 950T when wood and blue steel was the king, not to mention the amazing Mod 99.... and their shotgun & pistol line up back then. After their come back they seem to be living on their reputation, personally, I always thought of the Accu-trigger as a sale gimmick. I think their new savage straight-pull bolt action, the Impulse may be on the right track if they'd put a better conventional trigger and safety in it. I know the name of the game today is; bean-counting and CNC, but... there was a day when craftsmen put them together. Just my 0.2 guys, Cheers.
VLD Pilot
Well-Known Member
I doubt Sharp shooter supply sells them anymore but they had a trigger that was the best trigger I've ever used in a savage. I want to say it was the competition trigger just not sure the name. Set around 1.5lbs was an excellent trigger as far as savage triggers go.
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