i was at the local shop huntin around for an action to build an 06 case based rifle. not finding any military actions like i want i spotted a well used savage in 270. nylon stock poor looking barrel on the bargin rack. for 300$ it diddn't say what model and wasen't anyone around to tell me but it had the spanner nut holding the barrel on. not being a savage guy is this a good action?
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savage 110?
- Thread starter ducmarc
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Engineering101
Well-Known Member
ducmarc
I've got a bunch of Savages. I love them. I also prefer the Accutrigger so I wouldn't buy and old beater without that feature. Once you get an action, you can swap barrels and bolt heads and stocks and such and make whatever you want. I just turned a 270 Win into a 300 RUM and my first try at a couple of loads ran 1.5" at 200 yards with the 210 Berger VLDs. I'm figuring I can improve on that with a little tweaking. The barrel is a factory varmit contour stainless that cost me $100 from Numrich's website.
Another example, if you want to push the envelope, you can get a prefit (for Savage actions) stainless 338 Edge barrel from McGowen for about $330. Throw a brake on it, and $100 for a Boyd's laminate stock, a comp lug, mag bolt head and bedding job and you have just created a long range hammer. With RL-33 the Edge really is a hammer. My nephew is getting 0.5 MOA running the 300 grain Bergers at 3040 fps out of his Edge. That is 6150 ft lbs with a bullet that just doesn't slow down.
One caveat, you need a good barrel vice and barrel nut wrench to get the 100-200 ft lbs torque to put a barrel on properly. You also need go/no-go gagues.
I've got a bunch of Savages. I love them. I also prefer the Accutrigger so I wouldn't buy and old beater without that feature. Once you get an action, you can swap barrels and bolt heads and stocks and such and make whatever you want. I just turned a 270 Win into a 300 RUM and my first try at a couple of loads ran 1.5" at 200 yards with the 210 Berger VLDs. I'm figuring I can improve on that with a little tweaking. The barrel is a factory varmit contour stainless that cost me $100 from Numrich's website.
Another example, if you want to push the envelope, you can get a prefit (for Savage actions) stainless 338 Edge barrel from McGowen for about $330. Throw a brake on it, and $100 for a Boyd's laminate stock, a comp lug, mag bolt head and bedding job and you have just created a long range hammer. With RL-33 the Edge really is a hammer. My nephew is getting 0.5 MOA running the 300 grain Bergers at 3040 fps out of his Edge. That is 6150 ft lbs with a bullet that just doesn't slow down.
One caveat, you need a good barrel vice and barrel nut wrench to get the 100-200 ft lbs torque to put a barrel on properly. You also need go/no-go gagues.
DocDoc
Well-Known Member
The accutrigger has a blade in the center of the trigger that sticks out. It blocks the trigger from firing until it is depressed. There is a standard and a target version, the latter can be safely adjusted to a lower pull.
Yes, 110 are very good actions. The model # is engraved on the barrel normally just in front of the barrel nut on the left hand side.
(Sorry for quality of the take off barrel pix)
Last edited:
DocDoc
Well-Known Member
If I were going to replace the trigger, it would be aftermarket. Timney and others are a good choice.
Nimrod
Well-Known Member
No need for anywhere near that much torque! I use a nut wrench and action wrench to remove factory installed barrels and a recoil lug wrench along with the nut wrench to re-install and remove previously changed barrels. I only tighten hand tight and have done so for years and many rounds down range. YMMV.
Bob
Engineering101
Well-Known Member
Nimrod
I don't like the idea of putting torque on parts of the action or recoil lug be they stout or not. With a barrel vice I stick the barrel in the vice and go to town either removing or installing with my barrel nut wrench. When I say you need 100 ft lbs or so, that is just my estimate of pulling on my 1 foot long wrench with about 100 pounds of pull. So I am "hand tightening" as are you. I initially didn't tighten that much – maybe only 30 ft lbs and found that every rifle without exception would throw the first shot high and then the rest would group 3 or 4 inches below the first. Since I moved up to 100 pounds of pull, that problem went away. In fact I just got back from the range where I was shooting two of my Savages so assembled (a 260 Rem and a 300 RUM) along with a custom 338 RUM. The two Savages grouped just a hair outside 1inch at 200 yards where the 338 ran 1.5". The vertical on the 300 RUM was 0.375" so it sure isn't having any issue there. The vertical on the 260 Rem was about 0.5". To be fair to the 338, that was a first try load with the 300 grain Bergers and the other rifles loads are pretty well done being developed. I'm pretty sure that if I loosen the barrel nut on that 300 RUM and go back to the range with the same ammo that I just shot that vertical will go right back to 4 inches with the first shot being the flyer.
I don't like the idea of putting torque on parts of the action or recoil lug be they stout or not. With a barrel vice I stick the barrel in the vice and go to town either removing or installing with my barrel nut wrench. When I say you need 100 ft lbs or so, that is just my estimate of pulling on my 1 foot long wrench with about 100 pounds of pull. So I am "hand tightening" as are you. I initially didn't tighten that much – maybe only 30 ft lbs and found that every rifle without exception would throw the first shot high and then the rest would group 3 or 4 inches below the first. Since I moved up to 100 pounds of pull, that problem went away. In fact I just got back from the range where I was shooting two of my Savages so assembled (a 260 Rem and a 300 RUM) along with a custom 338 RUM. The two Savages grouped just a hair outside 1inch at 200 yards where the 338 ran 1.5". The vertical on the 300 RUM was 0.375" so it sure isn't having any issue there. The vertical on the 260 Rem was about 0.5". To be fair to the 338, that was a first try load with the 300 grain Bergers and the other rifles loads are pretty well done being developed. I'm pretty sure that if I loosen the barrel nut on that 300 RUM and go back to the range with the same ammo that I just shot that vertical will go right back to 4 inches with the first shot being the flyer.
The old Savage trigger can be easily tuned to around the 3 lb range.
Lots of good info here.
Savage Shooters
Lots of good info here.
Savage Shooters
Nimrod
Well-Known Member
Okay
g0rd0
Well-Known Member
I have savages and love them. But, $300.00 for a used 110? That's a lot too much IMHO.
Be patient I am sure you can do a lot better. I would not pay any more than $100.00 for a used 110. As a used 110 its value is in the action only.
You will probly pay more in total after a new barrel and scope than you would pay for a new 110. Again this is only my opinion
Be patient I am sure you can do a lot better. I would not pay any more than $100.00 for a used 110. As a used 110 its value is in the action only.
You will probly pay more in total after a new barrel and scope than you would pay for a new 110. Again this is only my opinion
I agree that $300 is a bit high. I do however wants to know where I can get them for that price.
Savage 110 in .270 Win paid $199 used from Scheel's. I bought it for the action; had it for 2 years and harvested 2 deer and an antelope before I re-barreled it to http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f22/my-budget-270-ai-97745/ 2 years ago.
Nimrod
Well-Known Member
I'm not a big fan of the Accu-trigger but there are a couple of good replacements, my favorite being the Rifle Basix SAV-2, the cheaper RB Sav-1 and the Timney are simply a refined version of the old style 3 screw factory trigger. serviceable but with a little tuning you can get the same from the factory trigger. Factory barrels can be good shooters but some of them tend to copper foul a little more than they should. At $300.00 I would see if there were any haggle room, it would have to be a pretty nice plastic stocked gun for me to pay that much. I did just sell an Accu-trigger .25/06 for $400.00 but it was phenomenally accurate and the gentleman that bought it made the offer based on that after shooting it himself.
You won't find many around here for $100.00, $250.00-$275.00 is the going rate for a decent, no frills 110 in this area.
Bob
You won't find many around here for $100.00, $250.00-$275.00 is the going rate for a decent, no frills 110 in this area.
Bob
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