Need a lesson on a switch barrel gun

[rakkikoira]

I have zero experience with switch barrel guns, have not even seen one, so I have come here to ask some questions. I have a Remington 700 LH SA .308 that I had tuned and have been very happy with for many years. The stock fits me well, I am too cheap to buy another scope but I find that I would like to do less damage to coyote pelts. Is it realistic to pickup a new .223 barrel and get a new bolt from PT&G and have a gunsmith adapt them to my action and not effect my .308 setup? Once the new barrel and bolt have been fitted is it as simple unscrew old barrel, screw in new barrel, swap bolts, and resight? (I have a barrel vice) Is there anything else that I should keep in mind? Thanks Rakkikoira

 

[royinidaho]

If all is set up properly it's simply swap bbls and bolt and have at it.

I've done it a couple of times.

As far as using a barrel vise is concerned I simply "snapped" the barrel on by hand. Never did have a problem but that may not be the "better" way.....

 

[J E Custom]

The simple way would be to change the bullet to an FMJ or armor piecing (Little or no expansion)

Or if you reload simply load down.

Switch barrels are possible if you understand how to set them up every time you replace the barrel
But you will also need two scopes.

Just an opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[royinidaho]

J E, figured you'd chime in on this one.

I appreciate your experience.

Don't understand why another scope would be necessary?

 

[IdahoCTD]

The easiest thing to do would be to buy a barrel in 22-250 so you don't even need to change the bolt but you can do it the way you asked about as well. You'll need to pin the recoil lug or get a recoil lug alignment as well as a action wrench if you don't already have them. The whole thing is rather easy and fast to swap once the second bolt/barrel combo is properly headspaced.

 

[J E Custom]

J E, figured you'd chime in on this one.

I appreciate your experience.

Don't understand why another scope would be necessary?

I would think that you would have to sight in with a scope change just to make sure it was spot on.

I know that there are some good bases and rings but as you know, Close is not good enough for me.
And in my opinion 2 rifles set up with dependable zero's is better than changing barrels every time
you need a different rifle cartridge for the game. In fact 1 rifle that will fill both needs is the best and cheapest way to go if you cant afford 2 rifles.

So having a scope for both barrels just makes sense to me.

When I had the Contender virus, I ended up with a scope on every barrel and eventually a bunch of receivers to minimize the error in changing barrels. (Certain receivers shot better with certain barrels).

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[rakkikoira]

Thanks for the points. I have always collected the minimum number of guns and spent the extra money on ammo. The old saying when I was young was; beware of the man that has only one gun but shoots it very well.

 

[J E Custom]

Thanks for the points. I have always collected the minimum number of guns and spent the extra money on ammo. The old saying when I was young was; beware of the man that has only one gun but shoots it very well.

I was/am not trying to talk you out of a switch barrel rifle just point out the pluses and minuses'
of the concept. BUILD WHAT YOU WANT.

I have been there and have moved on, But if I wanted to do another one it would be on a Savage
where I could set the head space correctly every time and barrel removal would be easer. But I would still have a scope mounted on each barrel.

I prefer the Remington action, but feel the Savage would be better for this set up.

There are lots of guys that have and like the switch barrel rig.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Engineering101]

J E Custom

You keep mentioning having a scope on each barrel of a switch barrel rifle. The scope doesn't mount on the barrel so I don't get what you are saying. I have several Savages that I swap barrels around on. I have Weaver style bases and Burris Signature Zee rings on the scope. You pull the screws out of the rings, slid the scope off the bases, switch barrels, slide the scope back on the bases and it is usually on paper at 200 yards without doing anything. A couple shots and it is zeroed. I don't see any reason for another scope. You could have any number of barrels for this one action and scope.

 

[Punisher]

J E Custom

You keep mentioning having a scope on each barrel of a switch barrel rifle. The scope doesn't mount on the barrel so I don't get what you are saying. I have several Savages that I swap barrels around on. I have Weaver style bases and Burris Signature Zee rings on the scope. You pull the screws out of the rings, slid the scope off the bases, switch barrels, slide the scope back on the bases and it is usually on paper at 200 yards without doing anything. A couple shots and it is zeroed. I don't see any reason for another scope. You could have any number of barrels for this one action and scope.

He's talking about turning a 700 action into a switch barrel like a TC Encore. I think JE is driving at the fact that a tang style scope mount off of the barrel is going to be a ammo saver.

I get what you mean as well. Leave the regular 700 bases on and re-sight. My neighbor has a 700 SA and a 700 LA. And about 10 barrels for each one with different chambers. You can just swap barrels, torque and away you go... If you wanted. But let's get brutally honest... Who DOESN'T want another gun?

 

[J E Custom]

J E Custom

You keep mentioning having a scope on each barrel of a switch barrel rifle. The scope doesn't mount on the barrel so I don't get what you are saying. I have several Savages that I swap barrels around on. I have Weaver style bases and Burris Signature Zee rings on the scope. You pull the screws out of the rings, slid the scope off the bases, switch barrels, slide the scope back on the bases and it is usually on paper at 200 yards without doing anything. A couple shots and it is zeroed. I don't see any reason for another scope. You could have any number of barrels for this one action and scope.

Sorry it should read FOR each barrel. And like you said, you could have many different barrels for one action. "BUT" as you also said, you must re zero every time and by taking the scope out of the rings you must set the eye relief and you must level the scope (Which could change your Windage
on longer shots) that is why I recommend leaving the scope in the rings.

I like to leave the scope in the rings and separate the scope rings from the bases without disturbing the Base. The problem with different cartridges, is different zero's and now that we have better fitting picatinny bases and rings you should be able to remove the scope to switch barrels and install
the scope that was zeroed with that load/cartridge and it should remain very close to the zero for that barrel and cartridge.

IF you use the same scope for every barrel and cartridge, you will have to sight in every time and that takes time and money. I just don't see the economics of having one action and multiple barrels with all the problems and cost of having a switch barrel set up.

If you run the numbers on all that Is needed The only real difference in cost is the action and if you have to have a different bolt face that will require a different bolt, Mag follower and magazine.

The main concern I have is the increased chance of making a mistake assembling the rifle and having a problem. Once a rifle is assembled and tested there is little chance of a mistake and that
would probably be a load issue Not the rifle.

Again, I don't want to talk anyone out of what they want, just trying and discuss all of the issues related to it and let the builder make up his mind what is important and what is not to him.

It is all Opinion, and we all have one.

J E CUSTOM

 

[warboar21]

Would it not be cheaper to just buy a budget gun like a Marlin X7, Ruger American, Savage Axis, or Remington 783 in the caliber you are wanting? Buying a barrel, bolt, go and no go gauges and all tools required remove the barrel from the action would certainly add up. Not to mention that if your Rem 700 is shooting the way you want it to shoot you run the risk of messing that up?

Some of those rifles listed come with a cheap scope that will shoot fine out to max effective range of a .223.

 

[Defens]

I'm not sure why anyone sees the need to rezero a single scope after each barrel change. Using a Larue (or any other quality quick release mount) and a Picatinny rail, the scope will return to the precise zero point each time your remove and replace it. All you have to do is document where the zero point is for each other barrel from your original sight-in. For example, zero the gun at 200 yards with a .308 barrel, then set the scope indexes to "zero." Your .22-250 barrel then zeros at, say, three clicks up and two clicks right. Your .260 Remington sights in at -4 clicks, with no windage adjustment, etc.

I have two completely separate uppers for one of my AR15 lowers, with a Nikon tactical in a Larue mount. It swaps back and forth between my 6.5 Grendel and a .223 upper, with no need to re-zero each time, just turn the scope a few clicks.