Again, the improvement comes from the reamer design, not the hydraulic forming dies. It is pretty straightforward to me. Perhaps, you should concentrate on the "actual" gain in grains of H2O instead of playing with the percentages.
My .338 Thor
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buckbrush
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We're obviously not speaking the same language.
KH_Outdoors
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Nope, we are not. If you have an issue with it, PM me.
buckbrush
Well-Known Member
I don't have any issue. Just trying to understand the value of the hydro forming die. Legitimately curious and not trying to offend.
This is my second hydraulic forming die (Whidden was my first) built by my gunsmith since I have all the reamers. I like it, but I understand it is not for everybody, but it is simply another method of pre-forming a brass. Yes, I do the COW method too. It boils down to personal preference. I could have done the COW method (and still can) but opted for the hydraulic forming die. The one advantage of using a hydraulic forming die is you save primers - we all know primers are a premium these days. I do not know if you have seen my COW with my .30 Gibbs.
From L-R: .35 Whelen virgin brass, after re-sizing, fire-formed with 11g WSF (COW method), and after re-sizing.
I take no offense, but I owe you a response. However, I cannot do so if I do not understand your question/concern. If you want to know the value of hydraulic forming dies, that would have been a much easier question, as I provided to @KH_Outdoors in #48.
KH_Outdoors
Well-Known Member
This is my second hydraulic forming die (Whidden was my first) built by my gunsmith since I have all the reamers. I like it, but I understand it is not for everybody, but it is simply another method of pre-forming a brass. Yes, I do the COW method too. It boils down to personal preference. I could have done the COW method (and still can) but opted for the hydraulic forming die. The one advantage of using a hydraulic forming die is you save primers - we all know primers are a premium these days. I do not know if you have seen my COW with my .30 Gibbs.
From L-R: .35 Whelen virgin brass, after re-sizing, fire-formed with 11g WSF (COW method), and after re-sizing.
Thanks for sharing!
Seems logical to me. Save components & barrel life. Get closer to a final dimension for initial load work maybe too?
My gunsmith is having Whidden make my Seating & Sizing die set. So I asked to have a Hydro Forming die made at the same time. Worth trying!
I originally was going the Whidden route, but the lead time was too long, and prices have gone up significantly since the last time John built my dies for my .30 LARA (forming, sizing, and seating). For the hydraulic forming die, I purchased the following:
A few of us here use hydraulic forming dies with very good success. Good luck with your build.
KH_Outdoors
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing!
Great photography as well
You're quite welcome! This is what this forum is all about; sharing information and helping each other out. Cheers!
xsn10s
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The value is the components you save. I fire form by jamming the bullet on a 260 AI. Let's say I can load 100 rounds not including the cost of the cases for $72. With the dies I won't use those reloading components fire forming. So then I just work up a load on the hydraulic formed cases. On larger cases/ cartridges the savings is going to be more. And your load workup is going to be theoretically less.
buckbrush
Well-Known Member
OK. I'm just trying to understand how close the hydro forming get's you to the final improved case dimension. If I were to ever do another wildcat, it would be similar to this, but probably in a 30 cal.
