moly coated bullets or not?

Never did any bullets myself in moly. I hear and read that cleaning moly from a bore is quite the chore, however. I also hear and read that a lot of experienced shooters ONLY use moly coated bullets because the barrels last so much longer.

My thing is this: if you look at a fired/recovered moly coated bullet, you can see copper jacket showing clearly where the lands press into the jacket, and you can see copper stripes down the center of where the bearing surface contacts the grooves. SOOOO, if the benefits of moly are finished by the time the bullet is an inch or so into the barrel, what good is it? Does it make a difference all the way down the bore? I don't know.

I've considered using ONLY moly bullets in one of my 6.5x284 rifles just to compare it to another that will never see a moly coated bullet.

I'm also curious about Danzac coating and the black lubalox Winchester uses.
 
The only testing I've done shows that with a given load the moly is faster through the chronograph. That would equal lower pressure...

I can say, without a doubt, that when you start using moly coated projectiles you should probably 'stick with em'! It's a real PITA to get the barrel completely cleaned out from the residue left behind. Although I have never tried cleaning a barrel via ultrasonics.....




Never put moly on a projectile, have only bought them....

Scott
 
I tried moly in my 22-250 and it's a total mess. It just got all over.

I had a different experience than most people have with speeds though. I got slower speeds out of the same charge of powder. I'm not sure why. However, as I raised the charge weight I got higher speeds out of them before I noticed any high-pressure signs.
 
I tried moly in my 22-250 and it's a total mess. It just got all over.

I had a different experience than most people have with speeds though. I got slower speeds out of the same charge of powder. I'm not sure why. However, as I raised the charge weight I got higher speeds out of them before I noticed any high-pressure signs.

Isn't that the way it should be? Make the bullet slick with moly, you reduce friction in the bore, thus reduce pressure, thus reduce velocity. You then have to add powder to get pressure and speed back up.
 
Isn't that the way it should be? Make the bullet slick with moly, you reduce friction in the bore, thus reduce pressure, thus reduce velocity. You then have to add powder to get pressure and speed back up.

That's what I thought too...
My 223AI with the same powder charge(from the same lot/container), primer, and casing, shot almost 155fps faster. And not just for the first couple of shots either....


Scott
 
There certainly are benefits to moly coated bullets. Especially if you are concerned about barrel life. This is something that I've never really worried about because I don't mind the cost of getting a new barrel installed and reworking loads. I don't shoot enough right now to be overly concerned that my barrel will be "shot out" in the next decade or longer. I have too many rifles to worry about that. Plus I have a few extra barrels sitting in my safe with a nice film of oil to protect them and they will store longer than I can live anyway.

If I ever do shoot out a barrel, I will replace it. I don't have the time or interest to learn to coat bullets with moly and I don't want to rely on the market to always have what I need ready to sell when the time comes to order coated bullets.
 
I broke my 700 in (.223) with Hornaday moly coated 55 grain Vmax bullets (also did some 50 grain bullets as well), and it was the first time I'd used them. I sorta liked them in most ways, but with one exception. The patches come out black no matter how well the barrel is cleaned. Later I learned that the benchrest guys wipe the barrels with strait Kroil, and that helped. But once those 250 bullets were gone I never really shot anymore thru the barrel. Also found the barrel copper fouled just as fast with or without moly.

Now most folks here know that in my smaller calibers I often neck size, as well as load at the range. I do not use any oil based or liquid lube on my necks at all. I use powdered graphite and lead shot mixture. The necks size a little harder (effort), but think the results are better. Plus there's no problem cleaning the necks afterwards. But when I seat the bullets they tend to pick up some of the graphite as this can be seen in the hole on the targets. Do I get more shots before cleaning? I doubt it, but think the barrels don't foul as bad. Rarely need more than four patches to clean them (took five to six before). If you neck size, I can recommend the powdered graphite
gary
 
best way to clean moly from barrel is to shoot uncoated bullets.
With the black around the holes in target has it been seen with any of the other coatings? Or does the jackets have the same marks as the molyed ones?
 
I have coated some with moly and shot factory with various coatings and basically don't see a dimes worth of difference.
 
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