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Moly coated bullets

mrbofus

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
212
Location
IDAHO
I see some for sale here and there,
Father in law has a couple boxes he wants to give me

Good, bad???
Load the same or different than copper?

barrel cleaning?

thanks
 
I have not used them, but I have read a little. Going from straight copper to moly coated you will lose velocity since friction is reduced which lowers pressure. You then have to re-develop your load to get back the pressure and the bullet will go faster for the same pressure but will need more powder to do so.

Have to be careful going from moly back to uncoated, since your load would be over max ! When starting to shoot moly or after a good barrel cleaning, it will take more "sighters" to re-season the barrel, but you should be able to go longer between cleaning unless your rifle is a bad one for a carbon ring, in which case be careful.
 
+1 on what mrbofus said , right on . If it's just a couple of box's don't bother.
To run Moly right , once you start you keep using moly only in that bore .
If you want to change back to uncoated you can scrub the bore very well and then go back . However swapping back and forth is not a good idea.
 
The way it was always described to me, is moly-b is similar to graphite. If you ever were a cub scout or had a cub scout, you know graphite lubes the nails of your pinewood derby car. That being said, thats exactly what it does for your projectiles. I've loaded moly-b vs non, and you can notice it in recoil. I never paid much attention until I push my 700p 308 past 450 yards, as the difference is minimal. I've actually shot moly-b's and non, switching back and forth between shots at a metal hanger at 450, and noticed minimal bullet drop. Never shot one after the other over a chrony though.

Shorter distances, I used same load and didn't notice alot of difference besides ease of cleaning the barrel. It depends on if you want one ragged hole or not. At 100m, I wouldn't worry a thing. What I would say, is free projectiles are always welcomed, load some up and see what happens. I would not recommend for hunting, but for plinking, try it out. Whats the worst that can happen? You don't hit the x ring?

Just my .02$

-shm
 
The problem is that there is about 6 different processes that they all label as "moly coated bullets " Some don't even have any MoS2 in it . Some are just black paints they call " moly " .
So if you are buying your coated bullets then you don't really know what you have for sure .
It is impossible for someone to say molly did this or that without being 100% sure what's actually on the bullet . Just because it's black means nothing .
 
Only one advantage to moly; it does extend barrel life. I have a Savage LRPV .223 shot in factory rifle competition. The club rules say I cannot have a custom barrel. I have used the original molybedium coated bullets for 8 years and it now has 2,700 rounds thru it. Had my smith scope it last fall and he said the lands are still sharp, but there was a little fire cracking near the leade.
I am going to shoot it again this year with no changes. I clean about every 50 or so rounds. After the bore is squeaky clean, it takes about 12-15 shots to settle back to normal accuracy.
 
Only one advantage to moly; it does extend barrel life. I have a Savage LRPV .223 shot in factory rifle competition. The club rules say I cannot have a custom barrel. I have used the original molybedium coated bullets for 8 years and it now has 2,700 rounds thru it. Had my smith scope it last fall and he said the lands are still sharp, but there was a little fire cracking near the leade.
I am going to shoot it again this year with no changes. I clean about every 50 or so rounds. After the bore is squeaky clean, it takes about 12-15 shots to settle back to normal accuracy.
For moly you are cleaning too often and reducing it's protection.
 
Moly is a pain to get out of a barrel, but with that being said, it does work....As someone alluded to, all bullets that have a coating is not "moly", such as the Nosler Ballistic Silver tip bullets.....That coating is Lubalox and is not "moly" as some people call it....It does lower pressure a little, allows more shots between cleanings....

Here's a thought, if you don't like moly or coated bullets but find a good on "coated" bullets, buy them and then tumble the "moly" off.....
 
with moly u create a different kind of fouling its hard to clean once u shoot a bunch of it a very respecful custom rifle maker said it is the worst thing u can do to a custom barrel u can't get it all out of ur barrel without heating it cherry red to change molecular structure of the moly I think they're junk just my opinion
 
That is not my experience at all. Of course Moly is hard to get out of the bore , that is the very reason it works .
The whole idea of putting it in the bore in the first place is to keep a layer in the bore while shooting and not even try to clean it all out or clean too often .
That just works against what the whole idea is .
I do agree though that in a custom barrel that has been lapped smooth it may be of somewhat less benefit in some circumstances . A lot has to do with how you shoot and pattern of use of the gun .
Moly does not cause another type of fouling at all. It creates a layer of Moly put down for a purpose . If some people want to call that another kind of fouling then I guess they can but it's not bad fouling it's good fouling .
There are some people that can't abide by the black coating in the bore . They feel they have to get it out every time they see it . Well for those people it is a complete waste of time because if the coating can't build up to some degree it can't work.
That is like painting your house in the rain and then saying that house paint does not work .
 
That is not my experience at all. Of course Moly is hard to get out of the bore , that is the very reason it works .
The whole idea of putting it in the bore in the first place is to keep a layer in the bore while shooting and not even try to clean it all out or clean too often .
That just works against what the whole idea is .
I do agree though that in a custom barrel that has been lapped smooth it may be of somewhat less benefit in some circumstances . A lot has to do with how you shoot and pattern of use of the gun .
Moly does not cause another type of fouling at all. It creates a layer of Moly put down for a purpose . If some people want to call that another kind of fouling then I guess they can but it's not bad fouling it's good fouling .
There are some people that can't abide by the black coating in the bore . They feel they have to get it out every time they see it . Well for those people it is a complete waste of time because if the coating can't build up to some degree it can't work.
That is like painting your house in the rain and then saying that house paint does not work .
its only good fouling till ur bore diameter goes from 308 to .302
 
Only one advantage to moly; it does extend barrel life. I have a Savage LRPV .223 shot in factory rifle competition. The club rules say I cannot have a custom barrel. I have used the original molybedium coated bullets for 8 years and it now has 2,700 rounds thru it. Had my smith scope it last fall and he said the lands are still sharp, but there was a little fire cracking near the leade.
I am going to shoot it again this year with no changes. I clean about every 50 or so rounds. After the bore is squeaky clean, it takes about 12-15 shots to settle back to normal accuracy.
the 223-5.56 in my opinion is not a good rifle to measure barrel life u can run 5000 rounds thru one and have very little wear the big boys would be a better test 300s,big7s,338s etc.
 
its only good fouling till ur bore diameter goes from 308 to .302

That does not happen in a mechanical sense . The coating is there but it's very thin over say 300 rounds fired .
I just wonder how many bullets you have moly coated and fired ?
You can't compare unknown factory coatings to pure MoS2 .
It's not suitable for every shooting purpose but used the right way it works good. In my younger days it was not uncommon to fire 300 to 400 rounds over a few nights . Before moly I would be cleaning about 6 to 8 times in that amount of shots to maintain good accuracy . After moly , clean once after I finished shooting .
 
the only thing mechanical about shooting is cycling the action, reloading and accurizing thru machining your thinking physics velocity,drag coefficients,friction etc. You like moly and I don't .we should just agree to disagree
 
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