meplat uniformer....99cents

[abinok]

Let me start by saying that I have been trying to post this for 3 days, and I can't get the pictures to work. Ive posted pictures many times before, and its just not working... you will have to do the pictures manually...sorry. If an administrator sees what is wrong, or can correct it, please do. anyway...


Okay,
I guess the title is a little misleading, but if you are a reloader, with a few modest hand tools, and about an hour, you can have a very cheap, and very effevtive meplat uniforming tool.

What you Need:
Any bottlenecked rifle reloading die
A piece of brass at the end of its useful life for that die
Hacksaw
Bastard mill file wider than the die base, or as wide as the die base.
Epoxy, I prefer JB Quick, a faster setting version of JB weld
A grease or other substance that will function as a release agent for your epoxy.
Tape, electrical, or masking.
A pair of dowels a couple of thousandths larger than your bullet size. For this 30 caliber explination, thats a pair of 5/16 drillbits, with a shank size of .310.

High Speed Steel Bit Shank Sizes
15/64 .232
1/4 .248
17/64 .265
9/32 .279
19/64 .295
5/16 .310
11/32 .341

Masonary Bit Shank Sizes
3/8 .294
5/16 .249
1/4 .200
3/16 .176

Wood Bit Shank Sizes
3/8 .371
5/16 .308
1/4 .244
1/16 .184

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/1.bmp[/image]

Remove the decapping rod from the die, if the decapping pin is removeable as in RCBS dies, remove the pin from the rod as well.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/2.bmp[/image]

Insert your case into the die. At some point, the case will be stoped, and leave a portion of the case body, and the head exposed. Cases with lots of taper will stop faster.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/3.bmp[/image]

Mark this exposed section, and cut it off.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/4.bmp[/image]
use the file to cut the brass down flush with the die. Don't be afraid to bear on the die base, its hardened steel, and you aint gonna scratch it. You want the brass just a bit lower inside the die, not exactly flush, but you do want it square.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/5.bmp[/image]

Next you need to test fit the dowel you are using into the case. If you are doing a small diameter bullet on a large diameter case, such as, 270 in a 30-06, you will have to wrap the dowel with tape to bring it up to a friction fit. you want the end of the shank to be about .4-.5 inside of the end of the case when its in place, so wrap in an approprate location.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/1b2e1cff.bmp[/image] [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/7.bmp[/image]

After carefully coating your dowel with release agent, fill the .4-.5 depth opening between the end of the case and the end of the dowel wih epoxy. once filled, you are going to invert the whole assembly, and press the filed case end on a firm surface, and press the dowel through the epoxy, and into contact with the same firm surface.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/8.bmp[/image]

This has the effect of squeezing the epoxy around the dowel, and up into the case. Leave the case and dowel in place untill the epoxy cures, for the first couple of hours, give the dowel a quarter turn twist ever 15min to half hour, to ensure that the dowel remains free.
Depending on the specific case, and dowel you are using, you may get a nearly full length fill in one pour, and a second pour, and a second dowel will not be needed. The easiest way to test this is to reinsert the decapping rod (minus the decapping pin) a short distance, and drop a bullet into the hole, point up. If its only tight fitting at the top of the case (with most of the bullet sticking out)

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/11.bmp[/image]

its time for another pour, if its tight all the way down, youre almost done. For a second pour, insert the origional dowel into its previous hole (again, coated with your release agent) and mark its depth with masking tape. you are going to repeat the same steps as before, except this time you are going to push the second dowel through the epoxy, and into contact with the first dowel. Mark the depth to the first dowel with tape on the second, so you can be sure to get it pushed all the way down.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/10.bmp[/image]

Twist once in a while as before. If you use too much epoxy, it will fill the void around the dowel, and still have a but of thickness of epoxy between the dowels. Not a ig problem, just drill it out when its dry.
Now, a bullet should fit snug all the way to the botom of the die.

To use, drop a bullet into the case in the die, and use the decapping rod to push it up untill the bullet just pokes out of the top. Adjust the rod for the amount of protrusion (the amount you want trimmed) and lock down the collet that holds it in place.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/12.bmp[/image]

After that, a couple of seconds with the file, and you're done.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/abinok/13.bmp[/image]

If in use your case falls out too easily, slip a small piece of paper (.25x.25 or smaller) between the case and die.

I will admit that this tool is probably inferior to all other meplat uniformers. Some readers will probably even consider this whole thing a bit childish. However, I have been able to demonstrate reductions in vertical dispersion at 1350yds to the tune of 60% using this tool. OAL of uniformed bullets typically shows less than .0001" of variation.
If you have been considering trying some meplat uniformed bullets, give this design a try, then buy the monitor rifles version, its the best on the market, and not much more expensive than the various plastic ones being distributed.

All that being said, I can configure a variety of "caliber specific case inserts" for VERY little money, especially when compared with the price of buying all of the tools to trim those same calibers.

 

[4ked Horn]

Moderators, Nuke my post if abonoks starts working.

Ab I made the images links so they would be clickable then closeable as the readers go along.





Let me start by saying that I have been trying to post this for 3 days, and I can't get the pictures to work. Ive posted pictures many times before, and its just not working... you will have to do the pictures manually...sorry. If an administrator sees what is wrong, or can correct it, please do. anyway...


Okay,
I guess the title is a little misleading, but if you are a reloader, with a few modest hand tools, and about an hour, you can have a very cheap, and very effevtive meplat uniforming tool.

What you Need:
Any bottlenecked rifle reloading die
A piece of brass at the end of its useful life for that die
Hacksaw
Bastard mill file wider than the die base, or as wide as the die base.
Epoxy, I prefer JB Quick, a faster setting version of JB weld
A grease or other substance that will function as a release agent for your epoxy.
Tape, electrical, or masking.
A pair of dowels a couple of thousandths larger than your bullet size. For this 30 caliber explination, thats a pair of 5/16 drillbits, with a shank size of .310.

High Speed Steel Bit Shank Sizes
15/64 .232
1/4 .248
17/64 .265
9/32 .279
19/64 .295
5/16 .310
11/32 .341

Masonary Bit Shank Sizes
3/8 .294
5/16 .249
1/4 .200
3/16 .176

Wood Bit Shank Sizes
3/8 .371
5/16 .308
1/4 .244
1/16 .184

Image 1

Remove the decapping rod from the die, if the decapping pin is removeable as in RCBS dies, remove the pin from the rod as well.

Image 2

Insert your case into the die. At some point, the case will be stoped, and leave a portion of the case body, and the head exposed. Cases with lots of taper will stop faster.

Image 3

Mark this exposed section, and cut it off.

Image 4

use the file to cut the brass down flush with the die. Don't be afraid to bear on the die base, its hardened steel, and you aint gonna scratch it. You want the brass just a bit lower inside the die, not exactly flush, but you do want it square.

Image 5

Next you need to test fit the dowel you are using into the case. If you are doing a small diameter bullet on a large diameter case, such as, 270 in a 30-06, you will have to wrap the dowel with tape to bring it up to a friction fit. you want the end of the shank to be about .4-.5 inside of the end of the case when its in place, so wrap in an approprate location.

Image 6

Image 7

After carefully coating your dowel with release agent, fill the .4-.5 depth opening between the end of the case and the end of the dowel wih epoxy. once filled, you are going to invert the whole assembly, and press the filed case end on a firm surface, and press the dowel through the epoxy, and into contact with the same firm surface.

Image 8

This has the effect of squeezing the epoxy around the dowel, and up into the case. Leave the case and dowel in place untill the epoxy cures, for the first couple of hours, give the dowel a quarter turn twist ever 15min to half hour, to ensure that the dowel remains free.
Depending on the specific case, and dowel you are using, you may get a nearly full length fill in one pour, and a second pour, and a second dowel will not be needed. The easiest way to test this is to reinsert the decapping rod (minus the decapping pin) a short distance, and drop a bullet into the hole, point up. If its only tight fitting at the top of the case (with most of the bullet sticking out)

Image 9

its time for another pour, if its tight all the way down, youre almost done. For a second pour, insert the origional dowel into its previous hole (again, coated with your release agent) and mark its depth with masking tape. you are going to repeat the same steps as before, except this time you are going to push the second dowel through the epoxy, and into contact with the first dowel. Mark the depth to the first dowel with tape on the second, so you can be sure to get it pushed all the way down.

Image 10

Twist once in a while as before. If you use too much epoxy, it will fill the void around the dowel, and still have a but of thickness of epoxy between the dowels. Not a ig problem, just drill it out when its dry.
Now, a bullet should fit snug all the way to the botom of the die.

To use, drop a bullet into the case in the die, and use the decapping rod to push it up untill the bullet just pokes out of the top. Adjust the rod for the amount of protrusion (the amount you want trimmed) and lock down the collet that holds it in place.

Image 11

After that, a couple of seconds with the file, and you're done.

Image 12

If in use your case falls out too easily, slip a small piece of paper (.25x.25 or smaller) between the case and die.

I will admit that this tool is probably inferior to all other meplat uniformers. Some readers will probably even consider this whole thing a bit childish. However, I have been able to demonstrate reductions in vertical dispersion at 1350yds to the tune of 60% using this tool. OAL of uniformed bullets typically shows less than .0001" of variation.
If you have been considering trying some meplat uniformed bullets, give this design a try, then buy the monitor rifles version, its the best on the market, and not much more expensive than the various plastic ones being distributed.

All that being said, I can configure a variety of "caliber specific case inserts" for VERY little money, especially when compared with the price of buying all of the tools to trim those same calibers.

 

[Buffalobob]

Questions

The set up seems designed to give uniform bullet lengths and a squared up meplat. Are the meplats really uniform diameter/area ?

Secondly, is the die still usable for its orignal purpose of resizing? In other words is the bullet case with the caliber hole simply removed from the die once you have the meplats trimmed?

 

[abinok]

4ked,
Thanks for the help... makes it much easier to read. I finially got so frustrated that I posted it and hoped somebody could figure it out...
buffalobob,
I don't know if it makes them a uniform area or not.... I don't have anything that reads finer than .0001! All I know for sure is its cheap, and it produces results on par with the advertised effects of the major meplat uniformers on the market.
Yes, the die is completly useable after its all said and done. Just pop out the epoxied case, put your decapping pin back on (where applicable) and readjust for approprate decapping pin protrusion. The die in the pictures is a rcbs .303 British die, that regurarly loads ammo for both my brother in law, and one of my cousins. The die surface is so hard, that even with the edge of the file, and heavy pressure, I can't even scratch it. Short answer, absoultely stll useable.

 

[4ked Horn]

Abinok try converting your pictures from a bit map to a jpeg format.

 

[Buffalobob]

Thanks

I copied the instructions and pasted them into a word document and have stored it away in my computer so I can find it again.

 

[Jimm]

Hey 4kids /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif,you tha man.Thanks a mill for fixin this and thanks a mill adam for fighting so hard to get it to us.

 

[Jimm]

Adam, one other thing,what does the most expensive meplat uniformer cost and where do you buy it :come on , I know you must have researched it before you started.

 

[BountyHunter]

I have only seen two on the market.

1. Dave Tooleys and he makes them for Tubb also. about $40

2. Kevin Kram (Montour Rifles) on this site makes a SS version that is much beefier than Tooleys and has a second insert that cleans the hole out. Cost is $55.

Had both and went to Kevins.

BH

 

[abinok]

BH hit the nail on the head. I believe, as I mentioned in my post, that the monitor rifles version is the best, and its $55.
But, like I mentioned, i can fabricate A LOT of inserts before I spend $55, and then I can uniform multiple calibers, instead of one. If you uniform 2 or 3 calibers its a $3 vs. $150 thing. Im not knocking Kevins tool, its a great tool, and for what you are getting with his tool, im not sure he makes much on it, but, in the case of 3 calibers ($3 vs. $150)... I can buy a whole lotta bullets for $147.00.
I probably should have mentioned in my origional post that this, like all meplat uniforming tools leaves a slight "burr" around the newly cut meplat. I remove the burr on bullets from my tool with 3 twists of 0000 Steel wool, the finest grade avalable. For referance, Tubb's tool suggests using steel wool, or a wetstone to remove the burr.

If anybody decides to try this design, please post your experences, and opinions. I just finished loading rounds for a ladder test with some uniformed and sorted bullets. This will be the first ladder ive shot with uniformed and sorted bullets. Should be interesting......

 

[abinok]

4Ked,
I may try to do it again and change the pics to jpeg.... im out here in the sticks with a dialup connection. 16400 at the moment.... takes a looooong time to resubmit all those pictures. Maybe ill get around to it in a couple of days.

 

[4ked Horn]

16400! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Dude, leave it where it is. We'll understand.

If you just have to load a picture then take a picture of your ladder test target accompanied by a cleaned up version of your field notes so folks like me who haven't tried this method yet can see what it looks like.

 

[abinok]

Did I email you a copy of my condensed ladder test?
I posted a referance to it a month or so ago, and emailed it to 30-40 people, but I can't remember everybody.
I place a video camera downrange to film the target face, easier to do than trying to figure out what hole is what...
So if I can figure out how to pull a video capture off the video, a pic of the target should be easy....
It may be a week or more before I get the ladder done. A no wind condition only happens here every 20 or so days (and you better be ready when it gets here too!) Ive still got the last ladder I shot with 240SMK's. I'll email it, or post it, if there is a request.... and if I can get my camera to work.... used my girlfriends to take the pics of the tool... my camera is mad at me... im convinced

 

[ricka0]

[ QUOTE ]
Abinok try converting your pictures from a bit map to a jpeg format.

[/ QUOTE ]
Save them as JPG - they will be 8x smaller. It's the .bmp that is killing you. Some really old drivers only save in .bmp so you might have to convert (just use MS paint)