Making a new recoil lug

[Deleted member 46119]

I need to make a new recoil lug for my big Hall "E" action. It is getting an action diameter barrel 1.45.

What stainless would be good to use?

 

[J E Custom]

I need to make a new recoil lug for my big Hall "E" action. It is getting an action diameter barrel 1.45.

What stainless would be good to use?

I would recommend 17-4 PH it is tough and still be machined. also it would be compatible with stainless barrels.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Deleted member 46119]

I would recommend 17-4 PH it is tough and still be machined. also it would be compatible with stainless barrels.

J E CUSTOM

As always, J E CUSTOM has good advice.

Would you make one for me?

Describe the basic process?

I have a bunch of books but never looked for that option.

I was thinking it's a rotary table part. I have one. Am I on the right track?

 

[IdahoCTD]

You could bore the hole on a lathe and then mill the profile after. Or you could do it all in a CNC.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

You could bore the hole on a lathe and then mill the profile after. Or you could do it all in a CNC.

No CNC yet. I went back to manual when I came back from England.

The hole is the easy part. Can do that 6 ways from Sunday.

The hard part is the OD and foot.

I was going to center it on the rotary table on a sacrificial tooling plate. Crank out to the ID and circle my way down. The crank out to the OD and work down a partial circle. Then finish off by cutting out the "foot".

 

[J E Custom]

No CNC yet. I went back to manual when I came back from England.

The hole is the easy part. Can do that 6 ways from Sunday.

The hard part is the OD and foot.

I was going to center it on the rotary table on a sacrificial tooling plate. Crank out to the ID and circle my way down. The crank out to the OD and work down a partial circle. Then finish off by cutting out the "foot".

I would be happy to build you one but I don't have a surface grinder for precision thicknesses.

There are other alternatives that you might consider though.

Here is a link to getting one. They build 50 cal recoil lugs with larger tenon diameters and may have what you want.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=50+caliber+recoil+lugs&spf=1

Good luck

J E CUSTOM

 

[Deleted member 46119]

I would be happy to build you one but I don't have a surface grinder for precision thicknesses.

There are other alternatives that you might consider though.

Here is a link to getting one. They build 50 cal recoil lugs with larger tenon diameters and may have what you want.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=50+caliber+recoil+lugs&spf=1

Good luck

J E CUSTOM

Well. I've ordered some 17-4 PH. Gonna do it as described.

ID is for 1.25 barrel tenon. Existing lug is 1.253.
OD will be 1.45. Existing is 1.35.
I will match the very slight taper.

Without a surface grinder, best I can do is fly cut the faces parallel.

 

[Hired Gun]

Stiller makes 1.450" lugs for their 1.450 diameter actions. I use them on our Chey Tac builds.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Stiller makes 1.450" lugs for their 1.450 diameter actions. I use them on our Chey Tac builds.

Thank you sir. I sent them an email.

 

[Trickymissfit]

I would recommend 17-4 PH it is tough and still be machined. also it would be compatible with stainless barrels.

J E CUSTOM

even better than 17PH4 SS steel is MAR10 from Baldwin Steel in PA. Very similar to 17ph4 in the alloy make up, but delivered in a prehard state. Usually right at 30RC. A much tougher steel than 17ph4. The down side is that it's not cheap, and really not what you want to machine in a typical Bridgeport mill. On the plus side, it will not rust! Not even in a deionized water soak.

On the otherhand if it were be, I'd make mine out of generic 4150 pretreat steel, and then have it electroless nickled. After being plated, I'd simply grind it flat & parallel. An issue I've found with the 17ph4 is that the basic metal is hard to machine perfectly flat. I found it was far better to wire the shape out of a block that was ground flat and parallel. Same issue with MAR10 by the way. But with a wire EDM it doesn't change.

gary

 

[Deleted member 46119]

even better than 17PH4 SS steel is MAR10 from Baldwin Steel in PA. Very similar to 17ph4 in the alloy make up, but delivered in a prehard state. Usually right at 30RC. A much tougher steel than 17ph4. The down side is that it's not cheap, and really not what you want to machine in a typical Bridgeport mill. On the plus side, it will not rust! Not even in a deionized water soak.

On the otherhand if it were be, I'd make mine out of generic 4150 pretreat steel, and then have it electroless nickled. After being plated, I'd simply grind it flat & parallel. An issue I've found with the 17ph4 is that the basic metal is hard to machine perfectly flat. I found it was far better to wire the shape out of a block that was ground flat and parallel. Same issue with MAR10 by the way. But with a wire EDM it doesn't change.

gary

17PH4 is already on the way.

Would not mind knowing of surface grinding services.

 

[Trickymissfit]

17PH4 is already on the way.

Would not mind knowing of surface grinding services.

I ground my stuff of a Taft Pierce surface grinder with a Pope wheel head. But have also used a couple different Okamoto's in the past, depending on the size of the part. Nothing is as accurate as the Taft Pierce. The trick is to get a good square block to work with. Nice thing about 4150 is that you can order it in a ground finish that runs .015" / .020" oversize for nominal dimensions. Is extremely strong, and relatively cheap. If you have the top and bottom parallel, it's easy to wire it out after drill a quarter inch hole where the I.D. of bore will be. This allows you to feed the wire thru the part for the bore.
gary

 

[Edd]

17PH4 is already on the way.

Would not mind knowing of surface grinding services.

Shortgrass has a surface grinder.

 

[mtbullet1]

any air compressor rebuild shop will have surface grinder