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M70 (post 64) build, opinons would be appreciated.

Epee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
155
I'm very new here, and I can't even remember if I have ever posted. I'm an old time small bore competitor (61 years old) in conventional and international.

I am having my grandfathers post 64 push fed M70 30-06 "tuned."

It has a fajen plain walnut M40 style stock with a G&H single lever scope mount that has a 2 and 3/4X Burris, it also had a Lyman peep sight installed. I'm having installed a Kreiger 27" light target #7 contour barrel with a 1:11 twist, Jewell trigger, pillar bedded. The action will be blue-printed. A steel trigger guard is also being installed. I like fixed power scopes, so a 6X42 Leupold with the LR reticule.

I like Conetrol mounts, and want the scope as low as I can get it, so if anyone has some other mount that they think would be better please let me know, I would appreciate it.

Thanks for your wonderful forum, and for the time anyone takes to respond.
 
Sounds like you have a good plan Epee. If your plan is to include hunting, foul weather, you might want to consider a good stock other than the wood. McMillan, etc... A good coating on the metal surfaces might help with the overall weatherability as well. I personally like a little more magnification on the glass, like 10x, but that's your choice.
Please post some pics when you get it put together and get to the range.
 
Thanks for responding!

I hate to change the stock because my grandfather hunted with it, but I do understand what you are saying. I suppose, I could keep the wood stock and upgrade to a McMillan. I just like knowing my grandpa handled the same stock that I'm using. I know I'm getting sentimental in my old age.
 
It's okay Epee , more people should appreciate the beauty and reliability of a good hardwood stock or even a laminated wood stock (not claiming that it's the "right" answer). That being said it sounds like a solid upgrade you have planned. Any idea on what round you plan on shooting out of it? And just for feed back I like to ask everyone who's planning on a pillar bedding, why not a full action glass bed instead?
 
The gunsmith suggested pillar bedding. I didn't really question him on this. If you think a full glass bedding is better, then I can tell him that is what I want done.

I know my smallbore prone rifle was fully glass bedded when I was competing (30 years ago).

Thank you for responding.
 
The couple reasons I have always liked and suggest glass bedding over pillar bedding is it gives the action more contact area, and is much simpler. When pillar bedding the posts need to be cut to the shape of the receiver, and if the contour is not cut exactly and if they aren't cut exactly the same "height" on a horizontal line, it's defeating the purpose in my eyes; and as mentioned this also gives you only two real contact points. If you glass bed the entire action from the front of the recoil lug back to the tang then there is 100% contact letting the rifle naturally settle exactly the same, providing greater consistency. And consistency is accuracy.
 
Use pillars!!! The reason is so that you can get a consistent torque on the action. If you just glass in the action the wood will crush over time. Pillars will not. If your smith is at all savy he would have stated that he is fully glass bedding the rifle with pillars. It really is something that is DIY friendly. There are too many videos to list on youtube on the how to bed a rifle.
Your scope mounting rings should be lapped again another DIY friendly project.
Using your current stock would be less prone to moving if you seal it completely. It will still move in extreme weather changes but should be stable enough through a shorter hunting season without drastic temp changes.
Here is a bedding article that I refer to often.
Stress-Free Pillar Bedding
 
I understand the combination theory and I fully support the combination of pillar bedding and glass bedding. I was assuming this was an either-or choice when I suggested that. I've seen too many people use just pillar bedding that wasn't accomplishing anything. I'm not sure you're experience level but glass bedding isn't as DIY friendly as it may be presented on YouTube or wherever, depending on stock type, wood type, age, etc. it can be an unforgiving experience just as easily- if not more easily- as it can be a successful one, so be careful. I'm also not sure how strong you are but if you're tightening your stock screws tight enough to compress your trigger guard metal, bushing, and/or wood you must be using a vice to hold it and a ratchet, being very improbable otherwise; and very stupid also(not saying you are). Use a calibrated torque wrench and set your stock screws at the same in/lbs, not ft/lbs each time and you won't ever have to worry about consistent torque.
 
Yep, I'm not comfortable bedding, on a rifle that I don't want to mess with other than shoot it, and have it be accurate. I'm trying to do it right and keep the flavor of the rifle due to the fact that it was passed down to me. Once I'm gone it goes to my son, who is aware of it's history. Of course when I'm gone all bets are off.

I will double check with the gunsmith to insure that both pillar and glass bedding is being done.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond, and share your knowledge.
 
Go to any used gun rack and look at the wood stocks most of them have been standing vertical long enough to show stains from cleaning solvents. The oils and solvents soften the wood
Wood stocks swell changing the torque in some instances quite significantly. Add that to soften wood from the above scenario you can see how it can crush.
If your not a diy type at least read about the process. It will give you the ability to talk with your smith about his process and the materials he uses to accomplish his bedding.
 
No I can't understand that, that is just poor care and poor quality to begin with. I'm not replying in argument but that is ridiculous. And I'm a bit more than a DIY guy, I'm a co-owner of a private gun repair company and and even my custom build with a hand made walnut stock is used enough not to soak in oil (not that it would to begin with). If your stocks or your friends stocks are so wet and so oiled that they swell and smash that's a personal issue not a technical one. And once again, after each cleaning if you tighten to the same torque according to a certified torque wrench it is the same no matter how horrible of an owner you are; because you're sitting on a glass bed, and 50in/lbs is 50in/lbs. Furthermore if you have a stock like that I doubt it's a firearm worth investing money in for bedding, and if somehow it was I think you're money is better spent in a new stock to start with.
 
No I can't understand that, that is just poor care and poor quality to begin with. I'm not replying in argument but that is ridiculous. And I'm a bit more than a DIY guy, I'm a co-owner of a private gun repair company and and even my custom build with a hand made walnut stock is used enough not to soak in oil (not that it would to begin with). If your stocks or your friends stocks are so wet and so oiled that they swell and smash that's a personal issue not a technical one. And once again, after each cleaning if you tighten to the same torque according to a certified torque wrench it is the same no matter how horrible of an owner you are; because you're sitting on a glass bed, and 50in/lbs is 50in/lbs.
If your in the gun business why would you not use pillars?? Why would you recommend just glass?? . It sounds like you have a very knowledgeable clientele. That wasn't the case when I was working in the gun business.
On the north side of 50 you get to see what happens when things are not done right hopefully you have the education and plan to correct them. Look at the darker color and where it is on the 03 springfield below. What do you think caused the discoloration
 
Because when done correctly on a worthy firearm glass bedding is better than just pillar bedding. As I stated before I thought this was an either-or type option, and that I agree the best option is a combination of the two. Your example of a surplus military weapon is inefficient at best for multiple reasons, including wear, age, cheap and ineffective wood, the same with the finish, terrible storage practices, and the list can go on. And yes that gun has sat long enough with cosmoline and other heavy oils laying on it to stain but that's not a common occurance on any custom built Mod. 70.
 
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