Lose primer pockets

[boscodog]

There are tools that can tighten primer pockets, but they can be expensive also.

Can you give some examples of the tools you know about?

Thanks,
Tom

 

[J E Custom]

There are tools that can tighten primer pockets, but they can be expensive also.

Can you give some examples of the tools you know about?

Thanks,
Tom

Here is just one that you can use

.R W Hart Case Saver Swage Large Primer Pockets

The problem Is still to much pressure in most cases, age and use is the other.

If someone is having to Swage there primer pockets often, They need to reduce the powder/pressure

(Don't treat the symptoms, Treat the cause)

I can also understand the money issue, as most of us can. but safety and damage to the bolt can/is
a real issue and can cost a lot more than the brass.

In my opinion, there are many other ways to cut cost and get buy with less money than gluing in primers. Just saying.

J E CUSTOM

 

[kyron]

OK. I am starting to think there may be something wrong with my action from what you guys are saying. So let me try to give as much detail as I can. Please bear in mind as I said I am new to all this an not 100% certain that I know what I am looking at.

This is a new rifle. Factory Remington 700 7mm STW. I am still working on my initial load development. I am using r-p 375h&h mag brass that I necked down to 8mm then down to 7mm. I have 100 cases only (tight budget). I used the fire forming for barrel break in. I fire formed with 65 grains of imr7828ssc topped with a berger 180vld. The brass was new when I bought it.

Next I started my load work up with N570. I started at 75.5 grains and worked up in .5 grain increments. My first ladder test was completely wasted due to me also being new to shooting a scoped rifle and not actually aiming at the same point for every shot. I decided to shoot 3 shot groups for load workup after that. Harder on barrel life I know. But allowed me to work on my skills and be certain hole belonged to which load. The top load I have fired was 81 grains of N570.

During this whole process I have see a definite but very light ejector mark on 2 cases only. I have had nothing I noted as heavy bolt lift. However every, and I mean every single round, including fire forming, the primers have looked flattened and slightly cratered. About 40% have a small amount of carbon visible around the primer after firing. That 40% being pretty evenly spread among all powder loads, not just the high end.

The fire forming rounds were seated close to the lands but not on them. The rest have been more consistent (new seater die) at .010 off the lands.

I am currently more than 1000 miles from my loading bench so I can't give the exact number of firings the cases have had or upload pics of a fired primer. Going from memory though the most I think I have fired any of them is 3 times.

And I do want to say I appreciate all the help. This is a great community.gun)

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Not all of us are smart enough or have enough money to do all we would like. For awhile we were so broke I had $3. Each of us were allowed $1. I asked my wife what she an my daughter would like to do. They wanted to go to Dairy Queen. We all had a treat. I bought a box of primers. They had something from Dairy Queen.

I sold scopes to by more powder, primers and bullets. But when they sold, I use the money for a household bill. Some may not be able to relate to this, but some may. Those who do, can maybe use fingernail polish or some other product to hold the primers in.

Yep, there was a time when I had zero components for my rifles and nearly nothing loaded for them. My Pops loaned my a gun that year a couple of times to get out shooting. I never really had to sell stuff off for bills but I did sell a rifle once to ease up on finances and had to move a rifle for earnest money for my house as I couldn't come up with the $$ otherwise. It flat out sucks to be short on cash, but I won't sacrifice safety even if I'm broke. Get into cheaper to load pipes that you are likely to find brass at the range for if you can't afford a $3 a hull magnum. I did that at one time too...

Hell, I have just been able to get a new car the last few years, and I'm still paying off being behind on a yearly basis for nearly a decade. I still feel broke most of the time, and I work 60-70 hours a week.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Gentlemen,

Before I was in such financial straights I was doing okay. But since that was about four decades ago I didn't know much, except I wanted to play. I had only one rifle which was a 7-.300 Weatherby. I didn't go to a range because I don't think there was a range within 150 miles and besides I had a 100 yard range right there on my place with a chronograph set up. That rifle is still functioning perfectly. It is on its forth barrel. The photoed groups in the mono bullet thread were fired by this rifle.

The wildcats I now play with use .300 or 7mm RUM brass, .375 H&H brass, and .264 Win Brass, and 9.3X64 Berneke brass. I don't think I ever saw any of the RUM or Berneke or .264 Win brass at the range.

 

[tbrice23]

Kyron,
I've heard RP brass is pretty soft. ( I use Win. Norma or Lapua).

One question, do you have enough neck clearance in your chamber with the thickened necks from taking 8mm to 7mm ???

I never remember you saying if you neck turned your brass after necking down.

 

[kyron]

Forgot to mention that. Yes I turned the necks after bringing them down to 7mm. They needed that step pretty badly. They were very inconsistent before I turned them.

 

[J E Custom]

Seat the bullet deeper (Start with at least .020 and go up. the bigger magnums like free bore and Sometimes the bullet can be seated to long not allowing for bullet jump. (Very important when near max loads are used) I was also going to ask if you had turned the necks and that has been answered.

The little carbon ring around the case mouth is normal.

If you can post a picture of the case head it would help.

J E CUSTOM

 

[IDelkhunter]

"In my opinion I doubt it is unsafe but it can and does damage the bolt face and the bolt is much more expensive to replace than brass. So I toss it when the primer pockets get loose."

How can you tell when the bolt face is damaged? I have a visible ring on the face of my bolt on a Lane Precision 6.5x284 and and am only getting 2-3 firings on Lapua brass. As long as I feel a "little" friction, I use the brass. Has me concerned that I might not be noticing when I'm damaging the bolt and should just be throwing away the brass?

Thanks,

Marcus

 

[Black Tail Hunter]

"In my opinion I doubt it is unsafe but it can and does damage the bolt face and the bolt is much more expensive to replace than brass. So I toss it when the primer pockets get loose."

How can you tell when the bolt face is damaged? I have a visible ring on the face of my bolt on a Lane Precision 6.5x284 and and am only getting 2-3 firings on Lapua brass. As long as I feel a "little" friction, I use the brass. Has me concerned that I might not be noticing when I'm damaging the bolt and should just be throwing away the brass?

Thanks,

Marcus

When the primer pocket leaks bad enough gasses can actually gouge the bolt face leaving a divot. I have a very small one on my bolt face but if they are large enough it needs fixed.

 

[Gene]

Here is just one that you can use

.R W Hart Case Saver Swage Large Primer Pockets


J E CUSTOM

The Hart tool works, but you will need to do it with each reloading.

 

[kyron]

here is a pic of one of my fired primers. Like I said they have all looked like this, except for the carbon around the edge. You can see a little of that on this one. There has not seemed to be any ryme or reason for the carbon, some have it some don't.

 

[kyron]

After looking at that photo again I thought this might be more helpful.

 

[J E Custom]

After looking at that photo again I thought this might be more helpful.

Those look like very mild loads, so if the primers are loose they will not seal in time to stop the carbon/gas from exiting.

If you have firm fit of the primers, you may need to bump your load up just a little. The well rounded edges normally mean mild loads. (Some pressure is required to seal the primers and the case neck).

You might need a primer with a thinner cup that will seal easier at lower pressure. the 375 H&H is a magnum, but does not run a high pressures like a lot of the modern cartridges because of so many older rifles designed for 45,000 to 55,000 CUPs that are still around and being used.

J E CUSTOM